HarrisDPI

This might have been discussed already (so apologies up front) but have others found that shadow detail in the jpegs produced from the X-T2/X-Pro 2 are a lot darker compared to those from the X-T1? I have played around with the settings enough to know that its not the dynamic range at work here. The raw files are absolutely fine by the way. My not so great work around has been to push exposure comp by up to one full stop, put shadow detail to -2 and at times when provia just isn't working out at all, using PRO Neg. Std instead. Anyone else having these problems as all of this fiddling is driving me nuts (especially when my X-T1 would just nail perfect jpeg exposure every time!).

Hi there, I am shooting a conference this weekend and could use some advice regarding best settings for the X-T2, specifically regarding settings for auto focus. The conference will be badly lit (of course!) and no flash is allowed so am going to be shooting wide open mainly using f1.2 or f1.4. In single shot, single point focus this wouldn't be too much of a problem but in burst mode I tend to find the first image is perfectly focused and the next ones in the series are slightly off due to movement from the speaker (and I would like to make use of the 11 frames per second). My feeling would be to set the camera to continuous, and have a relatively small square area of coverage, but am not sure what the best settings would be to use in the new auto focus settings setup menu? Any advice would be much appreciated. Many thanks, Jason.

Yup there certainly doesn't look like much of a difference between the different settings. I might er on the side of caution and just keep the camera set to -2 as I have on the X-T1. Many thanks for this detailed response. Best wishes.

Hi all, hope you don't mind me asking a few X-Pro2 settings questions. 1) Now that waxy skin tones are a thing of the past is it still necessary to set noise reduction to a minus value? 2) I've been trying my hand at shooting video with the camera, however I have noticed that shooting anything under 60fps (for example: 1080/25P SS50) is recording ever so slightly jumpy movement when panning (even when secured on a tripod using a dedicated panning head). Is this just a limitation of the camera or am I doing something wrong? Be grateful for any feedback on either (or both) of the above. Many thanks.

Many thanks for the reply. Yup I predominantly use the 23mm f1.4 and 56mm f1.2 and a typical shooting distance is between 1 and 2 metres away

Hi all. If you don't mind, I could use some advise here. I shoot a lot of conferences (people speaking animatedly at podiums on stage) usually in bad lighting without the opportunity to use flash. Given the lighting, I typically have no option but to shoot wide open at f1.2 or f1.4 in slow burst mode usually using single point focus as opposed to continuous as I've never had much success with continuous in the past and do not feel confident relying on that focus mode as it tracks too much before the shutter is released. However, given such a narrow depth of field it doesn't take a genius to realise that if I am shooting in burst mode then only the first shot in a series is ever in focus as the people are moving ever so slightly back and forth at the podium. So, I'd be interested to hear what others do/would do and how you set up your X-T1's for similar situations and also find out about your shooting techniques (e.g: do you rely on continuous focus, do you use zone focus, face detection, slow or fast burst mode, back button focus etc etc) to get a higher hit rate in focus in burst mode at such a shallow aperture? I realise it is a totally different beast, but I come from a Nikon D4 which I used to set to continuous focus and always did a perfect job every time. P.S. I have updated firmware to version 4.

Very grateful for the incredibly detailed replies chaps. I figured there might only be a work around solution, so am certainly going to try the dividing/multiplying in 60's. Unfrortunately it sounds as though this is something Fuji wouldn't even be able to address and resolve in a future firmware update. Best wishes.

Hi all, just wondering if anyone has the answer to this issue that has been plaguing me for months. Under fluorescent lighting using the mechanical (as opposed to electronic) shutter I am experiencing really nasty banding. I can lessen the effect by changing the shutter speed but this does not entirely solve the problem. Anyone out there have a workable solution for this? (I am also wondering if my X-T1 could be faulty). Be really grateful to hear from you. Cheers, Jason.