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  1. Hi guys, new Fuji-freak here! I bought yesterday X-T3 with the 18-55 lens and XF 50-140mm f2.8, both used. At first I was really impressed with both of them but soon I figured out that there's something strange with the 50-140 and autofocus. The problem occurs at the maximum 140mm focal lenght. The autofocus can't focus near. It will only work for longer distances (over 4-5 meters) even though the minimum focus distance should be 1 meter. Even a slight zoom out e.g. 138mm will make the autofocus work normally. All the settings are in "auto", I'm shooting in single shot mode and autofocus on single point. The problem occurs in every possible setup. Here's a video about the problem (I didn't find my stand so I had to use chair) [ignore the cat meowing] https://youtu.be/g8snv-60DBM Has anyone else had the same problem or should I return the lens?
  2. Hi, I’m having some trouble with getting the green focus square to show. I’ve checked the obvious things like ‘AF point display’ is on and I’m using ‘zone’ focus mode. I’ve tried both AF-C and AF-S. I’ve even tried resetting all shooting settings. I’d really like to see the green square to know exactly what the camera is focusing on. Does anyone have any suggestions? I’m using an X-T3 with the 16-55.
  3. Hello Everyone, My name is Dwain and I'm new to this forum and to Fujifilm cameras but not to their film. I'm a former Canon shooter (not professional). I've decided to keep my Canon 6D, the 24-105 F4 and the 100 F2.8 macro lenses just in case. I delved into large format (Chamonix 4x5) for a short time, shooting primarily Acros developed in Rollo Pyro. My interests tend to lean towards landscape, architectural, environmental portraiture and night photography but lately, I've been itching to try street and event photography. I recently placed an order for the X-T3 and the Fujinon XF18-55 F2.8-4 lens to get use to the system and a good place to start. Not sure which other lenses to consider at this early stage. I did look at the Poll here regarding the most used Fuji lenses and two of the focal lengths I've been considering (23 1.4 and 35 1.4) seem to be the most popular despite these being older designs. The XF 16 1.4 also looks interesting. Anyway, thought I'd introduce myself. Feedback and suggestions welcome.
  4. I had a blast those days is rural China, amazing sceneries and amazing people. This shot was taken with my trusty XT3 and the 18-55mm zoom.

    © Ricardo Villagran 2019

  5. Hi all,Second post here would appreciate the input. I just purchased an X-T3 and X-H1.The EVFs on paper are meant to be the same with same refresh rates when in boost mode.The sizes are also meant to be almost exactly the same at 0.50 inches X-T3 and 0.48 inches X-H1 with the same resolution.However the X-H1 EVF feels smaller (bigger black border around the edges) and not as clear. It also gives me eye strain after just a few minutes. (I have adjusted diopter). It feels like its further away if that makes sense?Has anyone else noticed a difference between the EVFs when using them side by side because on paper they are meant to be the same. Perhaps its just this particular X-H1.Thanks,
  6. Greetings, Fuji friends! I'm having a conundrum. I have a slew of footage from an X-T3 I'm assembling in Premiere Pro. Footage specs: - 30 and 60 fps 4K -10 bit (internal) 8:2:0 -H265 -HEVC -All shot in F-log All of the unedited shots look great (for F-log, that is) in iMovie and QuickTime. When I ingest them into Premiere Pro, however, there's a bizarre pixelated swath of green and pink in the lowlights. No amount of color correction can solve it, and Davinci Resolve is no better. I have tried changing sequence settings, converting to Pro Res, and attempted many different encoding formats in Media Encoder with limited to no success. Has anyone ever faced this issue? Adobe support is stumped. Any assistance you can provide is greatly appreciated. Thanks so much!
  7. I enjoy shooting indoor sports, however, there is always situations where very high ISO is required so, I am thinking about using the Canon EF 135mm f/2L as an option, has anyone experienced this? How was the AF performance? Thanks and Regards,
  8. Hi all, I have an issue with triggering off camera flash since I updated the FW of my X-T3 to version 3.20. The flash is only being triggered about 8 out of 10 times, which is very distracting and annoying. I tried with two different flash brands (GODOX trigger + flash, Elinchrom trigger + flash) and see the same problem. I have used the same set-up for about 30 shootings (at ~1000 shots per shooting) last year and never had this issue. I could now observe it during the two shootings I had after I upgraded to 3.20. The issue doesn't immediately occur. During the first shooting, it happened after about 3 hours. During the second shooting, it happened after about 1 hour. I use the X-T3 with the vertical grip and 3 original NP-W126S batteries. I was suspecting a battery issue during the first shooting and therefore ensured that they were fully charged for the second shooting but it did not solve the issue. Does anyone have experienced a similar issue? Thanks and cheers Fred
  9. Hello! Getting on the long exposure(about 30 sec) this red pixels on my photos. On the more fast exposure it seems that there is less red dots. Is that normal or this is a warranty case?
  10. I am newer to digital photography, so I would appreciate your patience with me and my questions. My hands shake a little bit when holding objects. I am wondering if, considering my situation, I should rule out the x-T30, even if I use it with Fuji Lenses with Image Stabilization built into them. Is that enough for me or do you feel I really must have a camera with it also built into the camera itself? For me and my slight shake, is in in-camera image stabilization, nice to have or a must have? I can currently afford the X-T30 and would like to get it, but if you advise me that, because of my minor shaking, I really should wait until I can afford the likes of the X-T4, that would be good to know. Thank you, in advance for sharing your time and expertise.
  11. I created this slideshow of images that I took of a maiko walking around Miyagawacho, in Kyoto, this September. I edited all of the images in Capture One using Fujifilm's new film simulation, classic negative. When Fujifilm provides the X-T3 with classic negative via a future firmware update, I am sure it will be even better. However, I am liking the new film simulation already for street photos. What do you think of classic negative for your own photos? Fujifilm X-T3 , Canon EF 300mm f4L IS, Fringer EF-FX Pro ii
  12. I created this slideshow of images that I took of a maiko walking around Miyagawacho, in Kyoto, this September. I edited all of the images in Capture One using Fujifilm's new film simulation, classic negative. When Fujifilm provides the X-T3 with classic negative via a future firmware update, I am sure it will be even better. However, I am liking the new film simulation already for street photos. What do you think of classic negative for your own photos? Fujifilm X-T3 , Canon EF 300mm f4L IS, Fringer EF-FX Pro ii
  13. If you shoot F-Log with the X-T3, you might find this interesting: DR100 film simulation LUTs: DR400 film simulation LUTs: More details here: http://colorizer.net/index.php?op=xt3
  14. Hello ... bought the Godex V1 and use it on an X-T3 ... seems nice enough BUT ... it just sometimes doesn't work or rather it makes my Fuji seemingly go to electronic shutter and results are very overexposed. Solution is to turn either camera off and on again or the flash off and on again. Trawled the net but can't see to see anything. Sent in a request to Godox but they're obviously never going to get back to me. Anybody had similar issues or am I missing something very obvious? Camera and Flash have latest firmware. Andy
  15. Hello everyone! I am excited to be a part of a great community and have recently purchased some used equipment. I was able to snag the X-T3, 56mm f1.2, 23mm f1.4, and 16mm 1.4 through various ebay deals. I took the family to the zoo and put the 56mm f1.2 through it's paces and enjoyed it thoroughly. I am still learning the system and all of the settings. I think I had one or two good shots that don't need a lot of post work, but never the less it was a lot of fun to use.
  16. I am struggling with underexposed videos using my X-T3 and 10-24mm with interior Real Estate videos even with a decent amount of natural and ambient light. The footage is just too dark unless I pump up the ISO to 4000 where it gets really noisy. What are the best wide-angle lenses for the X-T3 with regards to interior Real Estate videography where it's usually low light? Also, is there a budget friendly option? I've gone through the Complete Overview of X Mount Lenses but I was hoping for some recommendations specific to the industry and video. Thanks for any help guys! Settings: 4K 29.97P I would prefer 59.94P to slow down some shots YouTube encoding prefers 30P ss60 F4.0 ISO 800-4000 200Mbps H.264 / H.265 Long GOP / ALL-Intra Eterna Custom White Balance DR400 Film Simulation Recording / F-Log Recording
  17. None of the functions on my Fuji X-T3 work when the DJI Ronin SC is on. I can’t change the shutter speed, ISO, aperture, etc. The Ronin SC works fine but once it’s on, the camera stops functioning. When I press the record button on the gimbal, it locks focus but doesn’t take a picture. I have to hold down the record button on the gimbal for 3+ seconds for it to work. The camera screen even dims after a few seconds as if it’s not in use.I've tried doing a Shooting Menu Reset and Set-Up Reset on the camera. The connection mode is set to USB Tether Shooting Auto. I've tried removing and replacing the lens, battery, and SD card. Everything has the latest updates. The USB-C cables are plugged in properly and all the way. Has anyone had this issue and knows how to solve it?Ronin SC Firmware: 1.5.0.40Ronin App Version: 1.4.5(1451)Fuji X-T3 Body Version: 4.00Fuji 16mm 1.4 Version: 1.01
  18. Hi, my name is Steven. A Kiwi/New Zealander expat currently living in Singapore. Have been shooting analogue for years then took a break with just my point-and-shoot, and have just bought an X-T3 - my first really serious camera and digi setup. So, still learning the camera itself as well as the technology. Just realised I made myself sound about 80 years old, which I’m not!! Looking forward to absorbing the collective wisdom of the members and viewing some amazing work.
  19. Hey all, bought a used X-T3 body for $850 shipped over a Fuji buy/sell group on Facebook, all checks out and the seller was very professional. Camera shipped with original box and in essentially mint condition cosmetically, except for when testing it this afternoon I noticed that the direction arrow buttons (around the Menu/OK button) were "sticky," or felt like maybe there was some debris inside them. They were clicking reliably, but some clicks would feel soft and then others would feel crunchy/hard. My X-T2 doesn't have this issue, so I know what the d-pad is supposed to feel like. Strangely, if I sort of rapidly click each of the buttons maybe 10 times each, the issue completely goes away and then an hour or so later if I pick up the camera again it's back. It's nothing dealbreaking, and doesn't take away functionally from the camera, but I'm trying to see what kind of avenues I might be able to take to address it. Has anyone else had this issue? How did you resolve it? Is it a known problem, and may it get worse over time? Google didn't turn up any search results for the D-pad specifically being "sticky" feeling, only shutter buttons and joysticks.
  20. Hi all, this is my first post on here and a complete amateur to boot. I am very keen to buy a new camera that I will enjoy shooting with and obviously I'd like the best image quality available, so can any of you guys please advise on any thoughts, ideas based on your experiences with these cameras for the kind of shooting I want to achieve, and any images to back suggestions up is of course more than welcome, thank you in advance guys. PS, just wanted to say my budget is around £2750 gbp, for a camera, and 2 lenses if possible.📷👍😀
  21. Hi, I'm having some weird issues with the Fringer EF-FX Pro II on my Fuji XT3 and I hope someone can help. When using the adapter with my Canon and Sigma lenses the image on the camera LCD is not showing the correct depth of field for the selected aperture unless I half-press the shutter button. The dof in the image remains wide open unless I half-press the shutter. The exposure of the image is shown correctly and changes accordingly when changing the apertue on the lens, the aperture numbers on the screen also indicate the correct selected f-stop, but the dof in the image remains shallow, as if the lens is wide open, unless I half-press the shutter. Half pressing the shutter also no longer affects the focus of the image. I'm shooting in S mode with settings full manual- ss, iso, aperture. I've formatted the camera, updated to the latest firmware in camera and adapter (1.7) and the issue still persists. Is this there a menu fix I'm missing here? Has anyone else experienced this? Or is this possibly a Fringer issue? Thanks for your help! D
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