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Found 12 results

  1. Modern Fujinon lens have electronical parts that may fail due to water damage or other reasons. In most cases it worths pay for repair, but sometimes repair costs are too high and its cheaper to just buy another sample. This Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 sample was electronically broken, so I've found relatively simple way to convert it into fully manual focus lens. More details in related article: Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 lens - true manual focus mod
  2. I took my brand new X-T20 out of the box today, so this is a post from an ignorant Newby and apologies for that. After switching the manual focus switch on the front of the camera, it still won't go into manual focus unless I also switch the Auto Mode Selector Lever on the top of the camera off "A". I think I must be doing something wrong. Surely I must be able to leave the camera in auto mode but still manually focus it? Or have I been playing around with something in the menu and switched something off by mistake? Please help a Newby!
  3. Could owners of the 35 f/2 please confirm whether this is normal or just a fault this guy had on a batch of lenses, please? I was going to buy this lens for fast, quiet AF and quieter smoother MF in video, so the above would obviously make it unusable for focus pulls for the latter use, it’s not so much the noise (although that’s not great on one of the new ‘silent’ lenses), but the very visible, horrid visual judder as focus is pulled...
  4. I feel like an idiot here—I’ve read the manual several times with camera in hand and tried Mr Google. So here goes: how does one access MF Assist to utilize manual focus assist such as focus peaking? When a access the menu and toggle down to #4 MF Assist -STD is grayed out. How do I activate that menu item? Thanks, Allen
  5. Zhongyi Speedmaster 35mm f0.95 version II released in Feb 2016, so there are almost no reviews online on this new interesting lens I've decided to try it, and ordered one sample directly from Hong Kong, attracted by 9% discounted price. It arrived yesterday, so posting some shots and first impressions. Feel free to ask questions if any. Out of the box (taken with ZSM 35mm on 0.95 + X-E2) Sample on F2.8 Sample on F0.95 Look on X-E2
  6. For X100F owners, can I ask you to set your camera to manual focus mode - using the digital scale set the point of focus to 10 feet. Manual exposure at say F8 @ 1/500th. Drive mode set to L. Take a few pictures pointing the camera at various distances without moving the lens focus ring. Is the point of focus jumping around on the digital scale in the LCD or EVF. I have have seen this happen on both the X100F and a friends X-T20. If you set the lens aperture to A mode it will hold at the set point of focus. Cheers, Terry
  7. Right now, there's no way to set the digital teleconverter when you're in MF mode, without diving deep into the menus. In AF mode you can set it to the control ring, but of course that's not available in MF mode, and currently you can't set it to a function button for quick access. I actually really like the digital teleconverter, and since I usually shot in Medium size mode, I don't get as much image degradation since it crops and then doesn't need to upscale as much, if at all. I'm in MF with back-button focus most of the time, since focusing is quicker and in AF/Av mode the aperture release is super annoyingly slow and flickers the LCD/EVF screen. So, this post is mostly to get this on Fuji's radar, unless someone actually has found a way to do this. I gather they monitor this at least to some extent, and I'm sure this is an easy firmware addition if they choose.
  8. Hello I have a X-T10 and recently bought the XF 14mm f2.8 R lens. Beautiful lens. As I have watched, read in blogs, and in the lens manual, this lens is supposed to turn the camera from Auto Focus mode to Manual Focus mode when pulling back the focusing ring/clutch. If I have the camera in “M” (Manual) mode, the lens will NOT work in Autofocus mode, but if I have the camera in either “S” or “C” (autofocus) mode, then the lens will work in Autofocus mode and furthermore, if in the same “S” or “C” (autofocus) mode and I pull the focusing clutch back, the camera will be automatically turned into Manual mode. That feature is not working, and this is the second copy of the lens since I had to return the first one because of the same problem. Is there any setting in the camera that I am missing? Please advise. Thank you all in advance. WideSpace
  9. I moved this post to the Fuji X-T1 / Fuji X-T10 forum.
  10. I tried the X-Pro2 w/ a Nikkor P.C 8.5 cm F/2... Nikkor P.C 8.5cm F/2 (Nikon resources) Nikkor P.C 8.5cm F/2 (Nikkor Story - The Thousand and One Nights) ...which is all metal and manual focus... tried shooting using focus peaking (...high red color)... the adapter used is a Novoflex (...the other one, theFuji M-mount adapter is mounted w/ a 28mm Leica)... easy to focus and the photos (...three JPGs) are not so much soft... for portraits maybe could be useful even if what'smissing is a little of contrast but I guess that shooting RAW could improve that. Attached are the images of the setup (...the quality are not good 'cos shooted w/ a P&S camera!).
  11. My 23mm, which ive had new from launch has now become very 'jittery' in manual focus mode. The focus ring workds for a bit , then either freezes solid or turns in only a very small range. I've tried all the obvious things and searched the manual and online and can find no other reference to this. Anyone got any ideas? My lens is on XE-2 with latest firmware and is very well cared for, no bumps or splashes.
  12. Hello, A few weeks ago I went to see some motocross event close to where I live. I have been there in the past, but this year was the first time with my X-T1. I brought along my XF18-55, the XF55-200 but also an adapted Leica Summilux-R. I have used this MF lens in the past on my Canon gear and its rendering is wonderful. Focusing on fast moving subjects is pretty hard to do, so one has to use a different approach. Find a nice position along the track, where you can see the bikes coming. Prefocus on a piece of the track where you have possibility of a nice shot (e.g. after a hump, or in a bend). Set the f-stop to f/5.6 ~ f/11 for plenty DoF. Check the shutterspeed you get. Longer ones give nicer motion blur, but your keeper rate will drop considerably. I try somthing between 1/125 and 1/400 depending on the speed of the bikes and curves in the track. The whole set is on my Flickr, but the images are unsorted regarding lenses. https://flic.kr/s/aHskbHe8Pm Kind regards, Crispian
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