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This image isn't anything exciting but I share it because I captured it using a 1980's Tamron 200-500mm constant F5.6 beast with a lens adapter (Nikon mount).  Shot in my backyard, using a monopod (which wasn't good enough, I should have used a tripod).  This is the beast ->  http://www.adaptall-2.org/lenses/31A.html

 

Had lens zoomed in almost 100%, so a 35mm equivalent of approx 700mm.

 

This lens creates pretty poor images but is usable with the focus peeking and considerable processing afterwards.  What needs to be done afterwards on post is considerable contrast and blacks adjustments and major moire removal.  But once all that heavy lifting is done, images aren't half bad for a $75 purchase on Kijiji !!

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Female ruby throated hummingbird shot through my kitchen window. Fuji xt10, 55-200. ISO 400, 190mm, f 4.8, 1/1300, -67 ev

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Just received the XF 50-140 and run to the ZOO with the X-T1

 

140mm, f/2.8, 1/320, ISO 800

 

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XT-1 with the 50-140mm at 140mm, f/2.8, 1/450, ISO 800

 

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Hiding behind a very small bush 

 

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Building a home,

 

 

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First post in Nature and Wildlife

 

Lost in Lavenders - Hummingbirds in Flight

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Fuji XT1, Fujinon lens 55-200, Firmware 4.0, 1/1600, f/4.8, ISO Auto, continuous focus, high speed frame rate, wide tracking focus setting option.

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landing place... with XC 50-230 on X-T1

 

 

Liveimpression

 

https://500px.com/liveimpression

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One owl stealing the rat from another. Shot with Fuji X-E2 and Jupiter 37A (135mm f/3.5) Soviet MF lens, deep in the woods at 3am. Fuzziness is due to the fact that I've forgotten that my YN560-III flash has a maximum duration at the maximum power, and that duration is looong

 

…Yes, you can easily get a camera shake shooting action with the flash in a pitch black darkness.

 

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Bonus shot: the winner. Hoot!

 

 

 

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Drill ducks are rare.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

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    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
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