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Vidalgo

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Everything posted by Vidalgo

  1. Here is 16-80 compared vs. 18-135, may be it will help a bit.
  2. Size, weight and other numbers available on product page: https://www.fujifilm.com/products/digital_cameras/x/fujinon_lens_xf16_80mmf4_r_ois_wr/ Planned shipping - at September.
  3. Obviously a chipped glass.
  4. IS mode 1 has significant advantage when using long tele lens and shooting object at far distance. Picture become too jumpy without constant stabilization. At short and mid distances, when picture is less dependent of camera's random movements, mode 2 become better because camera will take less power from battery.
  5. XF16 lens is significantly based to various corrections via software/firmware of camera. I.e. an old camera with such relatively newest lens but without appropriate firmware update may produce strange artifacts, at least theoretically. Worth to check. It's easy and free.
  6. Good price for good lens. Even a camera included!
  7. Looks like the camera has DR 400% setting selected
  8. What about XC lens? They has OIS but not equipped with switch.
  9. Rather than fiddling with smartphone app connected to camera, I would prefer GPS-module built into the camera (and switchable off when no needs).
  10. Check LMO setting (Lens Modulation Optimizer), somewhere in menu. When switched to ON, it helps to get sharper corners, differences are noticeable. Sadly, it works only for JPEGs.
  11. So, a gentleman with X-E3 is not allowed to the club. Sadly.
  12. I would add something. Don't use a third-party charger IF it make the battery hotter than with original charger. "Hotter" means significally hotter, 10-15C or more, what can be detectable with fingers. First, excessive heating is just dangerous, for any type of batteries. Second, lithium battery when charged at hot temperature, can get lesser charge (in contrary to estimations), and it's lifetime also shortened. No, cold also doesn't help to charge. Normal behavior of battery under charging in correct charger at room temperature - to be a slightly warm, no more.
  13. Vidalgo

    Lens Markings

    My 35/1.4 isn't marked. My 60/2.4 not marked as well. I don't have 18/2 but pictures shows no mark. Conclusion: the first lens trinity from Fujinon has no marks for some reason.
  14. Beginning of autumn, beginning of yellow, beginning of overcast. X-T1 / 10-24
  15. May be worth to add current total number somewhere in the first post of topic.
  16. To help for sorting of batteries, here is how to read datecode:
  17. I made some quick calculations. Canon LP-E6N battery has: 7.2V 1865 mAh 80gr, then power density is 0.168Wh/gr Fujifilm NP-W126 has: 7.2V 1200mAh 50gr, then power density is 0.173Wh/gr Quite similar! Fuji even wins by 3%.
  18. Wow, 9 batteries for 977 shots... something goes wrong... third-party batteries? Even assuming the X-T2 is more power hungry comparing to older Fuji's... One day I had shoting full day with 2 cameras (T1 + E2S), made 1214 shots in mode similar to PJ's style, and finished with 4 batteries depleted (even a bit less).
  19. I think, in terms of offering something different, 50/2 will be better partner for 27. Because 35/2 close enough in both focal range and aperture values - then why to keep in bag 2 similar lenses.
  20. Yes, it looks to be exactly a problem that I get sometimes with both my 18-55 and 10-24. A little blurred areas close to corners or edges. Central area of image is always OK. It's happened only sometimes and visible only at full resolution. My shooting manner is to take 2-3 shoots of the same scene in purpose to avoid possible camera shake or autofocus miss and then to pick the best copy. So that local "shaking" is not so critical. But annoying of course. I was shured the problem is related to the OIS. Not the major malfunction of operation, lets to say, non-ideality at some cases. I did these new firmware updates of both lenses, but still don't have an opportunity to check it thoroughly. Hope it will be the solution.
  21. Long press on MENU/OK button will lock D-Pad and some other buttons. It's a standard feature from Fuji exactly to prevent of accidentally hitting. Described in manual, somewhere in beginning.
  22. Here is simplest and safe trick: Put the lens into zip-lock bag. Put all it into the freezer. When it became cold, gently try to move clutch. Chances are low, but worth to try.
  23. I tried it. Start typing XC in Model Number field, then pick your lens in dropped list (instead of hand typing). Then go to next field. Should be OK. If list don't drops - something wrong with browser.
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