Search the Community

https://domvarney.com/2018/11/22/powering-the-fuji-x-t3/ This article really goes in detail into a lot of options for keeping the power on. Off hand, you might be able to use the 9v input plug with an external power bank, but I have not tried that.

Siuslaw Bridge Florence, OR. X-T1, 15-45PZ.

Sunrise From Draper, Utah. X-E3, 15-45PZ.

Topazlabs has introduced a new version of Gigapixel AI, an image editing tool to upscale images - without losing quality. The new version 3.8 is available for the reduced price of $79.99 (instead of $99.99) until February 18, and with the savings code FORUM it's even only $67.99 (22% savings). You can save even more with the Image Quality Bundle, which includes Gigapixel AI as well as tools for reducing noise (DeNoise AI) and sharpening (Sharpen AI) images. Instead of being around $260, it's available for $160. With our savings code FORUM the price is reduced by another 15% to $136 (approx. 48% savings) New Features in Gigapixel AI v5.8 Improved face refinement pipeline Gigapixel AI will now do a much better job detecting human faces more often and delivering more realistic results. Tiny background faces especially should see a noticeable improvement in quality. Significant image quality improvements with Windows GPU You’ll notice much better image quality across all models in Gigapixel AI when using GPU-powered Windows machines. Reduced memory usage We’ve streamlined how we cache and utilize image data through the entire editing pipeline, resulting in less memory usage and faster importing and exporting of image files. Lots of usability improvements and bug fixes We’ve improved the post-processing resize algorithm, optimized how we compress JPG, PNG, and TIFF files when exporting, and squashed a bunch of annoying bugs. » More information and sample images on the Topazlabs website

Hello! My name is Chris, aged 52, general IT- and bike-nerd. I discovered photography when I was about 15 yo and found my great-grandfathers Rolleiflex and my mothers old Kodak. Later I bought Ricoh KR-10M that got stolen. Lucky insured me was then able to buy a Nikon F3HP, which later led to having my own darkroom. Cue forward a few years, when I started to work, the wonderful hobby slowly was forgotten. Not completely, but only for the sake of point and shoot compact cameras. The last one actually was a Fujifilm X20. Last year I bought a Sony alpha 7C but have to admit that I am not completely happy with it. My significant other made me go through a lot of questions what I really want and/or need, but I just bought an X-T3 anyway. And maybe even an X-Pro 3 in the not too distant future.

Hi everyone, I am currently looking to buy my first camera and for that I am checking the second hand market. I have spotted a 2019 XT30 with the 18-55 mm and the 55-200mm for a good price. The point is, it seems to have a problem with the camera and I want to have your opinion before going ahead. I saw the camera yesterday and when I was trying it there was something odd with the display. Time to time the display became darker and very slow to follow my movements and was back to normal by pressing any buttons. I am not used to camera and I don't know if it was normal but for me it was quite strange to see the display trully following my movements and for any reasons becoming darker and having some latency. Is there among you someone who see what I am trying to describe and if they know if it is normal or not at all. Thanks you all for your help.

It sounds like you have the option for shooting multiple exposures turned on. https://camerajabber.com/tutorials/how-to-use-the-fujifilm-multiple-exposure-mode/ This is turned on / off in the Drive menu setting or the Drive dial setting: https://fujifilm-x.com/en-us/stories/advanced-month-4-camera-features-15-multiple-exposures/ (you did not mention which camera you have).

Are you using the XC 15-45mm kits lens? That may be what is giving you some troubles, that one is not Fujifilm’s fastest focusing lens. It does have some low light issues while the body does fine when you put a faster focusing lens on it. Which lens to use depends on your budget and which focal range (how you intend to use it) you want. The XF 16-50mm is a constant f2.8, the 35mm f1.4 or 23mm f1.4 are well regarded for low light settings. The XF 18-55mm does fine work, but is not as fast as the others I mentioned. Stopping down means setting a higher number f stop on the lens (or use the body to control the lens — you turn this on using the menu settings).

X-T20; K&F concept adapter + m42/m39 adapter + Leica Ernst Leitz Wetzlar 9cm f/4.0 Elmar; 1/15; f/8; ISO200; tripod; additional light from above MANFROTO Lumimuse LED3

Thank you Herco for taking the time to reply, much appreciated. Prior to my post, I chose the aspect ratio 3:2, image size Raw, and uncompressed and these were the settings used for the dimensions in the post. I haven't looked at jpeg yet but think that can wait. As you suggest, I will use uncompressed for real world use. Perhaps the problem is not being familiar with camera yet and probably the reason for the softness. What still puzzles me is the DPI setting. With the Olympus file, I determine the physical print size (usually 33cms x 24.75cms) in a 4:3 aspect ratio which is not much different to out-of-camera size and then reduce the DPI to 300 (approximately 15%) which is normal for printing. The Fuji out-of-camera file by comparison is much larger as understood from your reply but for printing purposes, I would have to increase the DPI from 72 to 300, an increase of over 400% with the software resampling many, many pixels. I hope I have made my issue clearer. Regards Urbane

It depends a bit on how long or wide you need the view angle to be and whether you still want to use the OVF or rely on the EVF. The 16-80 is a good lens but not especially great. In terms of image quality I'd prefer the 18-55 and pair it with a 14. That makes a great travel kit with only one filter size. If you don't mind a bit bigger, the 16-55/f2.8 is even slightly better than the 18-55 and it is weather resistant. If 16 is wide enough, you can forfeit on the 14 and get around with one lens. Fuji still has it's 18-135 which is relatively cheap as second-hand since the 16-80 arrived. It's not as good though and slower in aperture. In terms of image quality I'd rank the Fujinon standard zoom lenses as: 1. the 16-55/f2.8* 2. the 18-55/f2.8-4 3. the XC 15-50/f3.5-5.6 4. the 16-80/f4* 5. the 18-135/f3.5-5.6* 6. the XC 15-45/f3.5-5.6 The * marked will block a significant part of the OVF on an X-Pro3. Also bear in mind that the frame in the OVF gets really small above approx. 50mm. All lenses with variable aperture only have their fastest aperture at the widest point and quickly move to a slower aperture. The 18-55 e.g. is f2.8 at 18mm, but already f3.3 at 23mm and f4 at approx. 35mm (if memory serves me well). If you need a really longer solution than 80, the Tamron 18-300 was just introduced, but it's a bit of a big gun on an X-Pro3. Tamron has an excellent 17-70/f2.8 that seems perfect for APS-C, but we'll have to wait and see whether it will come for X-mount. Sigma is rumored to start offering X-mount lenses in 2022 and their recent 18-50/f2.8 is highly acclaimed for Sony E-mount APS-C, so hopefully that would be one of the first.

Hello everyone. I recently bought this beautiful camera. I recorded short videos, everything was ok. But when I recorded 15 minutes, at 5:38 minutes the sound and video disappears. At what it disappears only on the MacBook, it was sent via a USB C cable. Tried 2 different video outcome one. On the camera itself, the video is complete. How to send video to MacBook correctly. Thank you very much in advance.

I’ll answer my own question if it’s any use to anyone in the future. I have tested : - GFX50r with canon tse 24 and fancy smart adaptor (outstanding, but vignettes when pushed) - xt1 with canon tse24 and cheap adaptor (not good, it may be a bad adaptor) -xt1 with laowa 15 4 macro shift and cheap adaptor (okish to try shift out but not good enough for proper results) -xt1 xt4 with fotodiox shift adaptor and laowa 12 2.8 zero D (not as good as gfx24tse, but I highly doubt any client will ever complain about IQ with that setup) The GFX is in another league, you can crop for ever. But pricey, not as fun to shoot as the X line in general, and big. Of the shift options I tested on the x-t line, only the last is good enough. And it is good. And as wide as using the 24 on gfx with no vignetting. One thing I notice is with the GFX I love zooming in 100% on my shots and be amazed at how much detail is captured. Clients (architects) don’t do that : they look at the picture as a whole and that’s it. One thing I really miss is turning knob like on the tse. One thing I appreciate is how compact it is.

Adela was a professional photo model, and now she is a flight attendant. We did this photo shoot in March of 2019, I had an idea to picture her at aeronautical museum among aircraft. Fujifilm X-Pro2 with Fujinon XF 35mm f1.4 R.

Hello! I’m a bit worried I did a bad deal. I bought a used Fujifilm XT-3 quite cheap yesterday. I am the 3rd owner. The first owner was a professional photographer that bought the camera in 2019. Neither me or the seller can find the shutter count by checking the EXIF. He got a shutter count of 391, I got a count of 3. Seller told me he had the camera on service once to fix the shutter button, could the service guys have reset the counter? I also noticed when I got home I had to put in the date and time again even though I tested the camera like two hours before at the sellers place. I read this might be due to a small capacitor that stores some memory. Can this be the reason behind the reset shutter count? Appreciate any advice on how I can find the total shutter count, if I should return the camera or just live with the unknown and enjoy the camera.

Hi guys, Just reporting my findings with some odd behavior of the app since I'm not able to find this same instance happening anywhere else. I am on Android 12, X100V firmware v2, and app up to date. When on Jpeg + Raw, trying to send the full quality images (not the "resized image for smartphone 3m") over the Auto Image Transfer feature, the connection to camera drops out intermittently during transfer, causing the transfer to fail every time. This is not the case on iPhone - I have tested with iOS 15 on iPhone 7. The transfer works as expected as long as I shoot in only JPEG, or if I set transfer mode to the resize for smartphone option. Anyone else experiencing this?

I was able to connect on OS 15 with an iPhone 7. Sorry I am not able to offer more help. Was coming to the forum with my own problem and saw this 😂

XT200 Flickering Issue Hi, I m using a XT200 and is quite new to the photography/videography industry and I recently just bought a second hand Fuji XC 15-45mm lens, everything seems fine until I started zooming in while recording, there was white flashes flickering as shown in the link (https://youtu.be/4-0vSDyub1M)(https://youtu.be/ZYttfVqzu68) Is it due to low light? Is the camera adjusting to the lighting or is my setting wrong? (currently on default mode, i have reset the settings). The issue remains even in a room of artificial light. Please let me know how i can fix this issue. Thanks😅

XT200 Flickering Issue Hi, I m using a XT200 and is quite new to the photography/videography industry and I recently just bought a second hand Fuji XC 15-45mm lens, everything seems fine until I started zooming in while recording, there was white flashes flickering as shown in the link (https://youtu.be/4-0vSDyub1M)(https://youtu.be/ZYttfVqzu68) Is it due to low light? Is the camera adjusting to the lighting or is my setting wrong? (currently on default mode, i have reset the settings) Please let me know how i can fix this issue. Thanks😅

Unfortunately I do have the very same problem after upgrading to IOS 15. I can connect my X-E2 via Wifi to the phone but the camera remote app fails to recognize it (Yes, I have reset the app and tried other various things). It's a bit sad since I've used the app a lot to transfer images and now the camera has become more or less useless for my daily work.

After upgrading my iPhone to IOS 15 the Cam Remote app fails to connect to the camera (X100V). Re-installed the app - no change. Anyone with the same issue, and hopefully a solution?

Hi, im using camera remote on iphone and had this issue with ios 14 and 15. my camera is an x-e3.u Camera remote connects just fine to the camera, i select all the photos that i wanna import. After clicking import it starts with the first photo and all good. Then it starts with the second one and it gets stuck midway. The blue circle showing progress just stops there. I left it run for 5,10,15 minutes and nothing. Some times it gets stuck on the first photo. i reinstalled cam remote, reinstalled ios and i cannot fix it. any ideas?

Specifically see item 22 in the diagram at the URL (or the camera diagram in the user manual). Remarkable that tech support would deny the existence of a feature.

My change from a Canon DSLR to a Fuji X-T2 was driven by size and weight because I travel (backpack) and hike often. My Canon set-up included a 15-85mm, a 50mm, a 90mm and a 70-300mm but the 15-85 was my go-to lens. I loved the zoom range and the fact I didn't need to change lenses often... whether I was taking landscapes in the mountains (without tripod), architecture in cities or candid portraits. I took advantage of a "try before you buy" program for Fuji at my local camera store and fell in love with the XF23mm f/2 so decided to pair it with the XF14mm. I've been very impressed with the sharpness and colour that both lenses produce. Other lens variables can, if required, be corrected in post (Capture One does a much better job with RAF files than LR - especially for foliage). A year later, I did another "try before you buy" to test the XF10-24. I loved the extra wide end and being able to zoom through this range BUT after getting used to the diminutive Fuji primes, found the 10-24 big and heavy to use / carry. In my usage, it produced satisfying images throughout the zoom range (and I am a pixel peeper who studies MTF charts and the like before buying) although I would agree, slightly softer at the long end. All that to say, I doubt you'd be disappointed with either the XF10-24 or any of the Fuji primes. While I've heard good things about the Rokinon/Samyang primes, I've not tried them and it should be noted they are manual focus only. For me, I'm staying with my smaller, lighter primes... it just suits where I am with my photography right now. I can also tell you I LOVE my X-T2 and would only trade it in for the X-T4.

I'm entering the water here gently, having test-driven an xA5 and 15-45pz. My main test day was very sunny, so the screen was a reflective washout; I'm returning the xA5, and an xT100 will arrive tomorrow. Neither Xtrans nor 'retro' are big on my list - but many of the other standard features are ones that I use frequently (tipping touchscreen, usb charge, still imaging foremost). I migrated from Pentax (1980-2000 and 2017-20) with digital lately being µ43. I've a PK-fX adapter for some of the older lenses I still own, and the native 15-45 plus a TTArtisan 35/1.4 that I really liked on my micro bodies. That's all for now - looking forward to a damp but entertaining weekend trying out the xT100! 😏