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About Herco

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  • Birthday 05/26/1962

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    Portrait, fashion, fine-art, (urban) landscape

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  1. Herco

    XH-1 in 2020

    Hi Jazz1, I have both the x-pro2 and the x-h1. Despite the same sensor/processor inside, these are very different cameras. Also in terms of lenses that match best. The H1 is a very universal camera in true DSLR-style. I use it mainly for studio portraits, fashion and landscape (tilting LCD on the tripod). It easily accommodates the ‘larger’ lenses like the 16-55, the 56 and the 90 and in case of landscape the fast 16 and 23. The Pro2 is much smaller and most of the lenses mentioned above feel very large on the Pro2 and they obstruct the OVF. For that camera I have the f2 primes (23, 35 and 50) as well as the 14mm. I use the Pro2 for street and travel. Of the two it’s my favourite. I’ve always loved the ‘rangefinder-style’. Even though it is sometimes limiting. In that sense they complement each other. The Pro2 invites you to a slower style of photography. I did take a brief look at the Pro3. Technically, the main difference is the more consistent and reliable autofocus (which is the main feature of the 26Mp sensor/processor). Functionally, I have a few problems with the Pro3 compared to the Pro2. The main issue for me is the single magnification of the OVF. That makes it very hard to use the OVF with anything wider than 23mm or longer than 35mm. The Pro2 in OVF mode has a dual magnification that enables anything between 16mm and 56mm. Overall the VF of the Pro3 is better in terms of brightness, size and eyepoint (for people who wear glasses), but the magnification for me is a dealbreaker. Note that if you wear glasses, the H1 viewfinder is generally easier to view as it is bigger and brighter. Another issue for me is the hidden LCD. It’s an extra effort to go into the menus for me. I would have loved an LCD as on the X100V. The small sub screen to me is a useless gadget as there’s no backlit feature like on the H1. Talking about the X100V, I’m tempted to switch my Pro2 for an X100V. It might actually be a better match with the H1. Even less overlap. The main issue of the H1 (apart from battery life) is portability. It’s actually even bigger than a full frame Sony A7. In that sense the X100V might be the best complementary camera to an H1...
  2. Herco

    XH-1 in 2020

    Hi Daousz, I'm not sure whether you mean that the X-H1 will be your primary camera (as in: will use it most) or your truly first camera. The X-H1 is a professional grade camera with quite some options, so I can imagine it can be a steep learning curve if it's your first camera. However, there are lots of instruction videos out there. Besides that, the X-H1 is a great camera and my favorite workhorse. I've had an X-Pro1 and now an X-Pro2 which I love for the compactness and style of shooting. However as a workhorse the X-H1 is hard to beat. It replaced my X-T2 (and X-T1 before that) and it has some great advantages over the X-T2 (IBIS, better EVF, great shutter and bluetooth to your phone). It's generally better to grip than the X-Ts (though perhaps a bit less retro-stylish) and it has a very robust build quality. Esp. with bigger lenses like the 16-55 that can be an advantage. Image quality is the same as all 24mp Fuji's and in IMO there's no visible difference with the 26mp Fuji's. The main difference here is that the 26mp BSI-sensors (and processor) allow for faster AF and better eye-AF. For me there's no reason to 'upgrade' to the X-T3 or the X-T4 as I do very little video work. In fact, the X-T4 flippy screen is useless to me as it folds-out sideways. The other option you might consider is an X-E3. Totally different and much smaller form factor, but similar image quality and somewhat easier to operate. There are some great bargains for X-E3s as well. PS. the only issue that the X-H1 has (and the X-T2 and X-E3 far less) is that of battery live. You need to bring at least 2 but better 3 batteries for a day shooting. The IBIS makes it noticeably more power hungry
  3. I’m considering to buy a GFX50. Probably the S. However, I can’t find whether the GFX50 supports linear manual focus. I like to manually focus and I love the linear setting on my X-H1. I see the GFX100 has it, but no word on this in the GFX50 manuals. I fear it’s not there. Anyone able to confirm this? For Fuji it shouldn’t be an issue to add this through a firmware update, right?
  4. Herco

    Kaizen love to X-H1?

    My point is that during shooting Fuji auto rotates the display info nicely. During playback, they don't. You either set Autorotate PB to ON and for portrait mode images you have a tiny view, or you set in OFF and the display info stays static and you have to turn the camera between landscape and portrait. Many others use the gyroscope in the camera also during playback to ensure the right-side-up display of the image. That's for me at least the meaning of Autorotate PB ON.
  5. Herco

    Kaizen love to X-H1?

    Thanks AndyH44. I found this setting, but it actually disables autorotate in playback. I'd love an autorotate in PB that rotates with how you hold the camera. Like e.g. Sony has...
  6. Herco

    Kaizen love to X-H1?

    Most of the lock-ups were fixed in 1.01, 1.11 and 1.12 firmware updates. My first X-H1 locked-up during card write so bad that I swapped back to the X-T2. My current X-H1 doesn't have these issues anymore. However the X-H1 is definitely the stepchild of Fuji's Kaizen philosophy, which is actually really bad as it was introduced as their flagship camera. There hasn't been a meaningful update since 1.5 years and yet there's a long list of things to improve (which can be done through firmware). My most pressing one next to less erratic AF face detect, is automatic re-adjusting shots in portrait mode when played back/reviewing on the LCD. I don't know why on earth Fuji doesn't do that. They support autorotate, but it doesn't work in playback... I do a lot of portrait work in the studio and all other brands but Fuji, seem to support this.
  7. To add to that: DxO claims that their unique noise reduction algorithms would have to be completely rewritten to use the x-trans de-mosaic pattern for Fuji camera's. Which can be a pain as Adobe Lightroom after all these years still shows... As for the darker images, thanks for the explanation Doug. Very helpful to understand what goes on. Many Fuji shooters use the Exposure Compensation (set to +2/3rds of a stop) to correct. I correct images usually and only when needed in post. It's generally easier to recover details in the shadows, than in highlights, so I don't mind a bit darker images.
  8. I would have loved to see a better positioning of the different product lines at Fuji. The X-T4 is now a bit like Gerald Undone has put it: "jack of all trades, master of some". I would have hoped that the X-H line was focused on hybrid video/stills use incl. IBIS, flippy screen, decent ports (like a headphone port!). That would free up the X-T line to be the better stills camera. It would allow Fuji to have two teams really focusing to build the best in both categories. The X100V shows that with good positioning and focus on purpose, Fuji can build the best (fixed lens street) camera on the market.
  9. The Godox V350F and V860II are versatile on-camera flashes when you need occasionally extra light. For macro I believe Godox has a ring flash too. For more serious work (portrait, events et cetera) the Godox V1 is certainly great. My best experience however is with the Profoto A1X. It's more expensive, but has softer, more even light than the V1 and it doesn't run overheated every now and then. Furthermore the A1 works great in a studio setup with e.g. the small B10 or B10plus.
  10. I moved from X-T2 to X-H1 mainly because of IBIS. I love low-light urban landscapes. The X-H1 hasn't disappointed me. I compared it with the X-T3 and the H1 handles much better. Feels more robust, better shutter and better grip. A big unexpected plus for me was the linear manual focus setting on the H1 that the T2 and my x-Pro2 don't have. It allows you to manually focus in a linear mode for a more consistent feel... And by the way the 3.7mio EVF is superior over the X-T2 EVF with 2.3mio pixels
  11. My shortlist: Chris and Jordan from DPReview, bigheadtaco, Denae & Andrew, Dustin Abbott, Ted Forbes (Art of...) and grandmaster Hugh Brownstone (3bmep). For inspiration I turn to Ted Vieira... not so short list after all and the common denominator is that they refrain from "awesome", "epic" and "I have more gear than God"... 😉 adding Gordon Laing to my long list...
  12. Let me first introduce myself. 57 years and amateur photographer since the age of 12, although with intervals. My passion lies with portrait, fashion, street and urban landscape. All stills photography, almost no video. I started with an Olympus OM1 (which I still have and occasionally use) but have been around the block: from Olympus to Nikon to Pentax to Minolta to Canon and Leica. I took a few years off of photography, until someone lend me his X-Pro1 for a day. It reminded me of my M6 and M8. The X-Pro1 was far from perfect. However the camera grew on me and the image quality was so beautiful that it kept me wanting to shoot more. When the X-Pro2 came along I immediately upgraded and after a year or so I added an X-T2, which later on I swapped for an X-H1. The X-H1 is a bit big for Fuji standards, but after the EOS 5D its a breeze. In the meanwhile I own 9 XF lenses. Mostly primes, but also the 16-55 (hence the X-H1 for its IBIS). 90mm is the longest focal length I need (and have). For me the X-H1 also marks the transition point of Fujifilm. From this point onwards Fuji started to lose me. Let me explain. First of all next to the X-T10/20/30 Fuji launched the X-T100/200 line rendering the beautiful X-E line redundant and from what I hear, repealed soon. I understand the commercial viability of video capabilities and a DSLR-style over a rangefinder-style, but speaking of crowded market segments... Next to that Fuji launched the X-T3 only a few months after introducing the X-H1. I would have understood this if the hybrid X-H1 had the 26Mp sensor soon followed by the X-T3 with a similar sensor. But cannibalizing a flagship model within half a year or so, dramatically drop its price and discard of any meaningful firmware update for more than 1.5 years, is an insult to buyers. That kind of corporate behaviour is what we previously accused Nikon, Canon and Sony for, but they’ve bettered their lifes. It seems that history is repeating itself with the new X-T4 versus the X-T3. In a few years Fuji went from “video as an after-thougth” to “video-first”. There’s little progress in the X-T4 when it comes to stills. You could even say some degress: the fully articulating screen is not for stills photographers. Occasionally ‘killing your darlings’ is part of progress, but this almost feels like leaving a group of customers behind. In the meanwhile Fuji also launched the X-Pro3. I can dig dropping the d-pad and the reversed tilted screen. The titanium top- and bottom plates are a nice touch, but add little to the quality of the camera. What I can’t understand is getting rid of the dual magnification for the OVF. That renders any lens wider than 23mm or longer than 50mm useless in combination with the OVF, which is the main attraction of the X-Pro3. Leica already understood this decades ago... Probably Fuji’s best matured camera is the X100V. The style, new lens and tilted screen has defined today’s ultimate street camera. In fact I even consider swapping my beloved X-Pro2 for an X100V. The X100V shows that clearly defining a product line and improve and innovate on a regular basis is a better strategy than creating new and mixing existing product lines. It also makes it easier to maintain a stable pricing strategy. My hope is now on the X-H2 to restore ratio in Fuji’s product line-up and break with the recent ‘video-first’ mantra. However, considering the X-H was meant to be the hybrid stills/video camera, I fear the worst. I guess I’m part of a dying breed but Fuji please don’t make me want to buy an A7R...
  13. I'm working with both now to find out if ON1 can do all that I need. The difference between older versions of ON1 and C1 where much greater (in favour of C1) but the ON1 2020 edition has improved a lot esp. for Fuji shooters. So far I think C1 is still better in color editing, the Fuji film profiles (quite a bit better), b&w controls and still somewhat better in sharpening and noise reduction. ON1 has a better digital asset management (importing, culling, keywords, managing raw+jpeg...), some very nice effect filters and is easier to use. However, note that presets and filters in ON1 can easily become a bit 'too colourful' and 'over-edited'. You have to hold back a little bit and apply the opacity slider generously. With 'easier to use' I mean that in ON1 some adjustments are combined in handy filters you can apply, whereas in C1 you need to combine multiple tools to achieve the same results. In general: C1 is IMO more aimed at professionals and high-end users, while ON1 is aimed at enthousiasts. I don't use pano stitching and HDR so for me there's no clear winner yet... but if I would do pano and HDR I would definitely download the trail version of ON1 and have a very close look at it.
  14. X-H1 and X-PRO2 Have had an X-PRO1 and an X-T2 before...
  15. Hi, I'm using ON1 Photo Raw (2020) alongside CaptureOne 12 (C1). Some actions are just more clever solved in ON1 (culling, tagging, managing raw+jpg...) but ON1 also has Pano stitching and focus stacking. Next to that the new 2020-edition has a much improved RAF-support. Sharpening and noise reduction is now almost at C1-level. Library management, culling and tagging and basic editing I do in ON1. Whenever I have a photo that I want to be perfect for publishing/printing I open it in C1 and do the fine editing. But with ON1 2020 that might even change... PS. next to great software at a fair price, ON1 also delivers great support and their Plus package includes many free courses (also generic photography courses) that are frequently renewed and nice downloads such as presets and LUTs.
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