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Herco

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Herco last won the day on January 7

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About Herco

  • Birthday 05/26/1962

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Switzerland
  • Interests
    Professionally: portrait, fashion, fine-art
    For personal work: street and (urban) landscape

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  1. Be aware that (unlike the X-Pro2) the X-E2s is not weather resistant. It's more susceptible to moisture building up in the camera.
  2. When you buy the Pro-version of Capture One, it also has support for tethered shooting with the X-T2. Make sure you have a very good micro-B cable since Fujifilm cameras are very susceptible to cable quality and length. I can recommend the Tethertools cables.
  3. Can you tell us at what ISO-levels? And does the moiré also occurs in 4K?
  4. Aren't you accidentally looking at the embedded previews in the raw files? They have a reduced resolution. When you look in-camera you best view at the processed jpegs when you shoot raw+jpeg. Some users separate raw+jpeg across the two card slots and review only slot 2 (the processed jpegs). When you assess the images on the computer, make sure that the full raw file is loaded instead of the preview. Another suggestion is to look at focusing. Many people coming from a DSLR struggle a bit at first with mirrorless focusing. Make sure you have the right focus mode and shift the focus point to the desired location (joystick) rather than using the focus + recompose method. Finally and in all honesty, no matter how good the X-T3 is, there's still a difference with full-frame. Esp. in lower light situations. I've used the 5D in various versions and it is a 'beast' of a camera. Depending on which 35 + 85 you've used, it was until recently the go-to camera for most professionals and for a good reason.
  5. Actually, WB can be wrong. I'm a fashion photographer by profession and for all my assignments it is crucial that we have the correct WB set. White really has to be white and not some sort of off-white, beige or blue-ish white. That is why we use a color spectrometer for every shoot and we set the WB manually, not on Auto where it also changes with the content of the frame. Now Fujifilm and Sony cameras are usually 200-300K warmer than a calibrated spectrometer reading. Leica and Nikon are usually very close and Panasonic and Canon are mostly in between. It can vary per type of camera. Of course I'm talking about raw here and not the jpegs which are graded and colored at will. In itself it is not a big issue because you can easily correct this in post, but in order to do that properly you have to have a reference. In that case a SpyderCheckr or ColorChecker can come in handy. Alternative can be a sheet of white print paper or a white painted wall (assuming it is really white). Of course, you only do this when correct WB is essential for your images. For my holiday snapshots I rely on Auto WB 😉
  6. RAW files are the 'native output' of the sensor and if your camera sensor is a color sensor, it will be in color. Inside the RAW data however is a jpeg thumbnail as well as the jpeg settings (such as film simulations). Some RAW Processors (like Lightroom and Capture One) can read those settings and present the RAW file with the settings applied (like B&W). Others can't and just display the RAW file as is and you have to re-apply those settings yourself. Alternatively, you can have the camera create the jpeg for you with all the settings applied or connect your camera to your PC running FUJIFILM X RAW STUDIO | Software | FUJIFILM X Series & GFX – Global (fujifilm-x.com). That software contains the same settings as your camera and uses the camera jpeg engine to re-create the jpegs for you.
  7. RAW files need indeed further processing. Until then, they tend to be less sharp and with less contrast than processed jpegs. You can set the RAW file to be compressed. That way it uses less diskspace. Since it is lossless compression, the image quality isn't affected. Fujifilm has a really good jpeg engine, so for many it is a struggle to get better image quality from their RAW file, compared to the out-of-camera jpeg. Regardless of which RAW processor you use: Lightroom, Capture One, Silky Pics... Thomas Fitzgerald published very good quick guides for processing Fuji RAF files in either Lightroom or Capture One. You can find them in his webstore: THOMAS FITZGERALD PHOTOGRAPHY. They cost a few $ but give excellent guidance and sample settings to get the best out of your RAF file for each specific sensor. The 16MP sensor in the X-T1 needs a few different basic settings compared to the 24 and the 26MP sensors.
  8. Did the X-T3 got wet at anytime? The WR seals around the shutter release button and on/off switch of the X-T3 appear to be more vulnerable than those in the X-T2 and X-H1. It could be moisture building up on the contacts. Something that compressed air won’t solve. Perhaps have it serviced? I doubt that you’ll need a new top plate.
  9. I’m afraid you have a valid point here. I’ve had Fujifilm cameras since early 2012 and used them for a few years also for my professional work. Both X and - for a short time - also GFX. After a few issues I stopped using them professionally, but I kept my X-Pro2 for incidental personal work. The Fujifilm Professional Service (PFS) is nowhere near ‘professional’, unless (probably) you live in the US or the UK. Very long repair times and no loan cameras or lenses when you need them. In order to become a viable professional solution, imo Fujifilm really needs to step up their FPS program. A camera is much more than specs and good looks.
  10. Generally these longer zoom lenses tend to loose some sharpness towards the long end. Esp. off-center and certainly when you focus on nearby objects. For a 300mm, let's say within 6-7m. That is why you shouldn't put your faith in reviews that only look at 2D test charts positioned within a few meters. With a lens like the 70-300 go outside on a calm day (not windy), find a view with trees/foliage at least 15m away or further, setup the tripod and aim for a shutter speed of at least 1/200th, use the self-timer set to 2s and press the shutter release button. The image now should show sharp leaves and branches. A little loss of sharpness and contrast (softness) towards the corners is acceptable for a lens like this. You might want to take two shots: one with IBIS/OIS on and one where this is set to off. The IBIS of the X-H1 was Fuji's first and has been improved in later cameras to work better with tripod settings. The German magazine Fototest tested the lens recently and their overall verdict was that it was very good considering the price, They did see however, visible loss of detail towards the 300mm end.
  11. I wouldn't go as far as to say that I recognize the Fuji images on Flickr, but Fuji is definitely tuned towards somewhat 'warmer' tones in their auto WB than most others. This is called 'consumer-aimed colors' often combined with a somewhat higher color saturation. It's aimed to produce pleasing colors and a warmer image which generally consumers prefer. Note that I'm talking pure RAF-files here (with profile set to linear), not the film simulations for jpegs. Many brands have an Auto WB Cool setting that shifts the WB a bit lower. Unfortunately Fuji doesn't have that so there are two options: (1) do it in post (2) use a grey + color card. The SpyderCheckr or ColorChecker are great tools. We use a color spectrometer to set the correct WB, but that is quite expensive for casual work.
  12. That's strange... I've quickly looked-up some tables and according to me the CoC of a 6x9 is 0.07 and for the GFX100 it should be 0.038 (same cropped MF sensor size as the Pentax 645Z). Using a 90mm at f11 on a 6x9 set at approx. 11m hyperfocal should result in a DoF from 5.3m to infinity. For the GFX using a 45mm at f11 set at approx. 5m hyperfocal results in a DoF of 3.2m to infinity. I've never heard of a different definition for an acceptable CoC before... I can't understand why Fuji after all these years is still not able or willing to implement an accurate DoF calculator in their cameras. My H6D is accurate to the cm. Same for my wife's SL2... For typical landscape use (one of the GFX sweet spots) it's a must-have.
  13. Hi Urbane. I actually advice to use Compressed for real world use. It has no loss of quality and the files are reduced in size by 50%.
  14. Hi Urbane, the standard Large output file of the X100V should indeed measure 6240x4160 pixels. There are three settings determining the quality and format of the output file. In the Image Quality Setting menu there's Image Size where you can set the combination of aspect ratio and resolution of the RAW file. Usually this is set to Large 3:2. Then there's Image Size that determines whether you want a jpeg and/or raw file and what the quality of the jpeg will be: fine or normal. Usually this is set to Fine+RAW or only Fine if you only want jpegs. The 72 DPI as you describe only relates to the jpegs in Fine setting. It could be that Olympus has an ultra-fine setting (?). If you keep raw files, you can decide how to store them: Compressed or Uncompressed. With Fuji. the compression is lossless so there's no loss of quality when you select Compressed. Most users select Compressed in order to save SD Card storage space. A Compressed RAW file (or RAF as Fuji calls them) is around 28 MB in case of the 26Mp sensor in the X100V. An Uncompressed RAW file is easily twice that size. A JPEG out-of-camera is approx. 18 MB. My guess is that your Olympus was set to Compressed and each brand has it's own compression. Some are just more efficient than others. Whether the X100V is produces soft images is difficult to assess from a distance. My experience is that you have to get used to how cameras actually autofocuses as well as the whole dynamics of holding the camera and pressing the shutter release button. The X100V should be capable of sharp images with only slight fall-off to the edges and corners (in contrast to it's predecessors). My advise would be to practice with the camera and try out the different AF settings. When you doubt the camera, put it on a tripod and in manual focus mode and set MF Assist to Peak (focus peaking). Then you can finetune focus manually on a specific subject. The final image should be very sharp that way. Make sure your aperture is small enough to get a sufficient depth of field for the entire subject (f5.6 or f8)
  15. This type of shutter release button that Fujifilm has on its X-T and X-Pro cameras usually has some play. However, I never had this much play in the collar itself. Esp. since the collar acts as on/off switch it sees a lot of action and possible wear in contacts and seals. I would have it checked by Adorama and if needed/possible replaced by another X-T3 copy.
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