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Herco last won the day on September 23

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About Herco

  • Birthday 05/26/1962

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  1. It's not really a sensor cleaning that is performed. What the camera does when this option is switched on, every time you switch on/off your camera there's an ultra sonic vibration that 'shakes' dust particles off the sensor. It's an ultrasonic sound pulse so to speak. The dust particles are not removed from or collected inside the camera, so essentially they can return. This option is not an alternative for incidental sensor cleaning using a swab and some cleaning gel (to be performed by an experienced service employee). Best is to avoid dust inside the camera: don't leave the mount exposed for more time than necessary to switch lenses. Don't touch the sensor and don't use a blower to remove dust from inside the camera (you just blow in more dust).
  2. On the X100V the combination of filter and lens cap provide three functions: to make the camera weather (not water!) resistant (WR), to protect the front lens and to reduce the chance of flare and ghosting. Whether you want to make the camera WR, is entirely up to your shooting conditions. Remember, many tens of thousands of X100's in various versions have survived without being WR at all, so with a bit of care, you can also do without. Protecting the front element of the lens is a similar personal choice. Know that most damages to front elements occur while dropping the camera. A lens hood will only protect against that to a certain level. Another source of damage (scratches) is while the camera is in the bag or in a pocket. In that case lens cap will protect equally well, if not better. Finally, the lens of an X100V is not very prone to flare and ghosting, but if you shoot in direct sunlight, a lens hood will certainly reduce the chances to that. If not directly visible, often the reduced contrast is a telltale. Note: if you do decide on mounting a filter, make sure it's a good one with multicoating (B+W, Hoya, Fuji...). Cheap filters can ruin your images almost unnoticed.
  3. It's difficult to determine how much effort you feel is 'a lot more...', but in general this should not require much force at all. Read Attaching a Lens (fujifilm-dsc.com) to make sure you've aligned the lens correctly and make sure the lens mount rests flat against the camera mount before you turn it clockwise (viewing from the front of the camera). If it still requires effort and/or you don't feel it click in, go and see a Fuji dealer. It might be a mechanical issue. Whatever you do, don't force it. Mount repairs are generally expensive.
  4. Try the Shutter AF and Shutter AE functions in the SETUP / Button/Dial Setting menu. You can decided whether only the AF gets locked pressing the shutter button halfway or the exposure (AE) or both. Read: The Setup Menus (BUTTON/DIAL SETTING) (fujifilm-dsc.com)
  5. It reads like you've had "Preview Exp./WB in manual mode" switched ON in the SET UP/Screen Setting menu. The EVF shows you the current exposure setting (without added flash light) so the EVF is usually pitch black. Switch is OFF and you'll be able to view the scene.
  6. It has nothing to do with the X-Trans III sensor, but everything with the X-Processor Pro processor. That processor isn't capable of handling these newer additional features. So, I it's unlikely that these features will come to the X-Pro2. Moreover, Fuji took a bit of a different approach towards firmware updates for older cameras. In a way that will better separate the features between older and newer cameras. The 24MP cameras are now in a kind of 'low maintenance mode' so only the most pressing bugs will be fixed and the cameras will be kept up to date to accommodate new lenses and other accessories like strobes. But don't expect new features.
  7. The one thing to keep in mind is that X RAW Studio can only process files made with that specific type of camera. So, whenever you trade-in your X-T4 to a future 'X-T5', you can no longer process your X-T4 files in X RAW Studio connected to your new X-T5. For that reason you might want to hang on to your TIFF-files.
  8. No, there's no risk of damage. Actually there's a setting in the AF Menu that allows you to work with manual focus overriding the autofocus of the camera (AF+MF). So you can let the camera do its AF and then manually fine-tune with the focus ring if needed.
  9. Sharpening and noise reduction are essentially two sides of one coin. You have to balance them well in order to get the best results. My experience is that Fuji has very aggressive sharpening settings and equally aggressive noise reduction. I've dialed them down in all my Fuji cameras. The issue is that many people believe they need to crank up noise reduction to get cleaner low-light images, whereas a slightly reduced sharpening might help more. I always prefer a bit more 'grain' over esp. color noise. I've got the best experiences with Capture One (C1) and their default noise reduction and sharpening is already quite good, but can be improved by reducing the Threshold in C1 for normal ISO images (up to ISO1600). For ISO3200 I would set the Threshold between 0.2 and 1.0. Secondly, reduce in C1 also the Luminance NR for low/normal ISO images to around 20 (max) and for ISO3200 to max 50. Details can be set to between 25-100 for ISO3200 images (and between 0-50 for normal ISO) depending your visual need. Should you wish to read more on how to process RAF files with C1 or LR, Thomas Fitzgerald has an excellent guide for download at his website: Thomas Fitzgerald Photography | Photo Editing Expert However, the level of noise at higher ISO (like 3200) is also very personal and depending on your previous experience. You mention you've used a D750. That camera has one of the best non-BSI 24MP full-frame sensors ever made and it will be hard to compare images at ISO3200 against the APS-C X100V even though the X100V is quite good for it's sensor-size.
  10. Hi Denise, I'm not sure what broke off. The filter thread part in the front of the lens or the bayonet mount that attaches the lens to the camera? Since you mention the 4 screws, I think you mean the bayonet mount (the silver-colored metal ring). I strongly advise you not to remove those screws yourself unless you're skilled and have to correct tools. The bayonet ring can be replaced by a service engineer, but it's important to check the lens for other internal damage too. The AF mechanism or the lens elements might also be in need for re-adjusting after such a drop. Otherwise you might spend good money on repair parts and still have a malfunctioning lens.
  11. The 10-24 is a great landscape lens. Often zoom lenses have a strong and a weak end and with the 10-24 the strong end is definitely towards the 10mm end, which is usually great for landscape. The 8-16 is an expensive alternative. I would only recommend it if you really need the f2.8 and the 8mm end. It requires special filterholders as well, which makes it even more expensive. It is good, though you need to stop down to f5.6 for best performance. Wide open it suffers a bit from vignetting and distortion, which is well corrected afterwards but correction always affects image quality in corners and edges. It’s also a bulky lens due to its nature. As for primes the most obvious choices are the 14/2.8 and the 16/1.4. The 16/1.4 is one of Fuji’s best XF lenses, but the 14 isn’t far behind. Both have the focus clutch that allows you to manually focus with hard stops. Great for landscape. A lesser known alternative is the Zeiss Touit 12/2.8 for X-mount. This is a fantastic lens. It has the great Zeiss color rendering and contrast. You only need to be a bit aware of potential flare and ghosting. So be careful whenever the sun is in the frame. I have no experience with the Samyang/Rokinon lenses for Fuji. There seems to be a great 10mm prime… It’s only manual focus though…
  12. You also might want to check out Capture One Express for Fuji. It is free software you can download from the Capture One site. It should run on your mac (although a bit slow perhaps). It lacks some of the features of Capture One Pro, but most likely those features are of less interest to you as an enthusiast. Capture One also fully supports the Fuji film simulations.
  13. This is a known issue with both the X-H1 and the X-T3. Always use Fuji recommended SD cards, insert/eject with care and switch off the camera when you do and format the cards in camera every time you've transferred the files to your computer. However, even then this error may occur. I've had three H1's of which two had this issue and one T3 that also showed this occasionally. In a few months I've lost more images than in 30+ years prior to that, so I'm not using them for professional work anymore. My personal X-Pro2 ploughs on faithfully 😉
  14. Welcome @dgeorge959. Both are excellent cameras and depending on the lens you're using, they should be very suitable for landscapes too. Image quality is the same. I've had both and I've also used them professionally for a while. Just a short list of the most significant differences that I can recall. - There's obviously quite a difference in the form factor of the camera. The H1 has a deep grip and is a bit less 'retro-styled'. For long handheld shoots I prefer the H1, but you can also mount a grip to the T2 to reach more or less similar. However, mounting a grip on the T2 doesn't change the position of the shutter release button and that is again a way better experience with the H1 for long handheld shooting. Of course this is all moot, when you use a tripod; - The H1 is a bit more robust built and has slightly better weather-sealing. It is more aimed at 'pro-use'. The outer coating is more resistant to scratches and markings. The mount is more robust to better handle large lenses like the 200mm and the 100-400 zoom. The result is that the H1 is a bit bigger and heavier, but compared to your 5D still small; - The H1 has an annoying bug in some series: occasionally you get read/write errors when writing to the SD Cards. The only way out is to switch off and on the camera. Always use the Fuji recommended SD cards, insert/eject with care (camera switched off) and format the cards in the camera (every time after transferring the files). But even then... I've had 3 H1's over 3 years time and 2 of them had the recurring issue. Fuji wasn't able to fix it. I never heard of T2's with the similar recurring issue, but the T3 has it as well. Many Fuji-users have never experienced it, but it's an annoying issue for a small group; - Obviously the H1 has IBIS (in-body image stabilization) but that is less relevant for landscape shooting. However, even when you turn it off, the H1 uses noticeable more battery power than the T2. So, while they use the same battery, you really want at least 1 or 2 spare batteries with the H1; - The H1 has the top sub-LCD which I always found very handy. However, this comes at the expense of the exposure compensation dial on the T2 top plate. The H1 has a button combined with the front- or rear dial for Exp. Comp. It's a matter of preference and getting used to; - The H1 has a touch screen as LCD. Fortunately you can switch it off entirely, because it's not a very good one (slow, lagging and sometimes non-responsive). It takes up battery life as well. In landscape photography it can be a nice feature to select focus points (when on tripod) and release the shutter, but most users I know, switch it off anyway; - The H1 has Bluetooth connectivity to the Fuji app (the T2 only Wifi). Bluetooth works way better, but the Fuji app is still 'crap' so you might not need it. A real significant difference though is the EVF. The H1 has a visibly much better EVF with higher resolution but also, more importantly. a higher refresh rate resulting in smoother movements and less noise in low-light situations; - The AF is more or less the same, but the H1 was designed for high speed action/sports. In my experience the AF of the H1 reacts a bit quicker when a subject is moving (less threshold) but the result is that specifically with eye-AF the H1 can sometimes erratically switch between eyes with only the slightest movement. The T2 is a bit more 'relaxed' and as a result sometimes works better in AF-C mode. However, with landscape this might not interest you at all; - More important is that the H1 allows you to change the behavior of the manual focus ring on the lens. Not only the direction, but also the response (linear vs. non-linear). When you work with MF (like many do in landscape photography) linear MF allows you to control the ring way better. The focus shift isn't depending anymore on the speed with which you move the ring (like it is with non-linear). The T2 only supports non-linear. Some of the Fujinon lenses have a focus clutch with hard stops on the lens (the 14/2.8, the 16/1.4 and the old 23/1.4. For those lenses it doesn't make a difference. - Both cameras a popular on the second-hand market, but the H1 a bit more. So, expect to pay a premium for an H1 in very good condition. The difference is easily $200-300 between comparable T2's and H1's. I hope this has helped you a bit to make a choice
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