Jump to content

10-24mm F4 OR 16mm F1.4?


Raysigarlaki

Recommended Posts

I think the 16 is dramatically better between f1.4 and f.5. I can't seem to get anything useful out of the 10-24 in this range...

 

Seriously, the f1.4 and f4 are "miles apart". Each has a certain use and as my old photography teacher was saying: why bother paying for an f1.4 lens if you are only ever going to use it at f8 to shoot your boring wheat fields and beaches?

 

 

Personally, I am also undecided here. I have some use for the f1.4, but 16 is a little too wide for my taste. I'd very much prefer having an 18/1.4. On the other hand, I have some use for 10-24, but f4 downwards rather than f1.4. I guess: the 10-24 is a lens on my shopping list, while the 16/f1.4 is having a hard time against the 18/f2.

Link to post
Share on other sites

For me, the max aperture is just one of several reasons that I own both of these lenses, and overall it's not the most important thing that separates them. There are times when I shoot the 16mm at f/8-f/11 all day because it is optically corrected and sharper edge to edge compared to the 10-24mm. I love the zoom because I can shoot it at f/8, low-ISO with the stabilization to bail me out on the slow shutter speed. However, in many cases I'm going to get softer corners because even though it's superb quality for a zoom, the 16mm is optically in another tier.

 

The 18mm has some great characteristics in size, price, and the fact some of the areas where it supposedly "falls short" can actually give it some extra character for street photos, but once again the 16mm is optically in another league if you're thinking about shooting landscapes. There have been a number of cases where I will go out "scouting" some landscapes with the 10-24mm and will get some great, print quality images, but I'll take a second loop through with the 16mm to recapture the best of those compositions to put them over the top. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

For whatever it's worth the Angry Photographer put both in his top four Fuji lenses. I know plenty to argue with with that list (and his comments on the 56 and 90), but having both on his list shows some view each as essential. I had the 16mm for a bit, got rid of, then fell in love with wide shooting (not my natural pull) with the 10-24. So now regretting not having the 16.  :blink:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M61AvVIRB9o

Link to post
Share on other sites

I had the 16mm lens and loved it, but since I normally shoot landscape and architecture with my wide-angle lens, I sold it and bought a 10-24mm. Now I'm even happier, because I really appreciate the possibility to get as wide as 15mm (FF-equivalent) and I normally use apertures between 5.6 and 11 with that kind of lens.

Edited by dneu
Link to post
Share on other sites

For whatever it's worth the Angry Photographer put both in his top four Fuji lenses. I know plenty to argue with with that list [...]

 

What I don't like about that review, is he didn't took the shot he is holding in his hands  when he reviewed the 16mm lens. He seems to be basing all of his review on that picture alone and is not showing us anything that he did with the lens to further argument his points.

 

Agreeing or disagreeing with his list is a whole different debate but while his opinion does have some value, I also take what he says with a lot of salt/pepper and a dollop of extra sauce on the side.

 

He knows his subject but does not show us anything that proves he actually gained that knowledge with on-field experience. I very frequently disagree with Tony Northrup about his view on photography but at least he puts pictures behind his words, Fro-knows is in the same basket. 

But Angry Photographer, almost never show us anything, or at least I still need to find a video where he does that.

Link to post
Share on other sites

All reviewer usually have link to random photosites where you can buy Stuff. So nothing they say can be trusted, if its bad review, noone buys anything. So it is in his best interest to recommend whatever junk.

Just my opinion, not universal true.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 mobile

Link to post
Share on other sites

All reviewer usually have link to random photosites where you can buy Stuff. So nothing they say can be trusted, if its bad review, noone buys anything. So it is in his best interest to recommend whatever junk.

Just my opinion, not universal true.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 mobile

 

It is not just the link to random photosites that bothers, but a lot of the protogs I follow around on Youtube review a product and present shots they have taken with the gear, when you have been following them for a bit, you start to know their style and framework, that gives you a baseline, for that reviewer, of how good/bad/meh that gear is.

 

As for the Angry Photographer, I have yet to find a single shot he took while testing any gear or even referencing to. At least for the year or so I have followed him, I have never seen any of his work and that's really the parts that troubles me.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

So what did you end up buying?

In my Nikon world I had the wide zoom 16-35 and I always shot wide, hardly ever used the 35 part of the lens. So naturally the 10-24 would be the best fit for my Fuji, right? Well not so fast. I rented both the 10-24 and the 16mm and although I love the wide angle of the 10-24, shooting the 16mm was just plain fun! Probably the most fun I've had with a lens! Not sure if it was the clutch assembly or what but I've got an order in for that lens. 

Ideally, I'd like a 10mm prime with WR but that's not on the road map.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have looked at the 10-24 and I love the "wideness" of it, but I am in LOVE with my 16 1.4,  It's sharp, clean, and I can use it as a mini-macro lens.  It's my second "don't leave home without it" right behind my 18-55 lens.

 

Even though the 10-24 is fabulous, I don't want to carry the bulk or the weight;  this is the reason I've also decided to stick with the 55-200 vs the 50-140 2.8

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello,

 

I only own the 10-24, but 80% of my shots are either at 14 or in the 18-24 range with that lens. I only shot few pictures at 10, when it's worth.

I've been trying to stay at 16 to see what I could get the past few days.

 

I always felt that 16 is either too wide or not wide enough, for travel photography or documentary context shots. Maybe it's because I can't really blur out the background at f4, but personally I think it's harder to compose at 16 than 14 or 18, in crowded / small places.

 

Plus, the f 1.4 isn't useful outside in daylight. (Unless you use an ND8 or ND16)

 

Regards,

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you need the low-light and almost-macro-like capabilities, then get the 16, or else the 10-24 will be a more versatile option.

 

I couldn't get both because $$$, and I wanted a lens which could be used for street, landscape as well well as astrophotography. I ended up getting the 16. I almost exclusively use it at 1.4 or 2.0 and couldn't be happier with the results.

 

Both are phenomenal lenses and you can't go wrong with either.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the 16mm and it's probably my favorite lens out of the four primes I own. Excellent image quality and absolutely perfect for low-light situations where you want to tell the story and maintain a lot of context, namely at wedding receptions or high-energy events. 

 

But, I would love to have the 10-24mm because I love shooting landscapes, get paid to shoot quite a bit of interior, architectural stuff and HATE having to change lenses when I'm either out in a windy, dusty environment or on the clock and feeling the pressure. The limitations of the 10-24mm that occur to me are 1) it being f/4, giving it a disadvantage for handheld low-light work 2) no weather sealing, keeping me on my toes if I'm out shooting landscapes in if-y weather.

 

But when considering how I intend to use it, I can imagine it being very useful. I shoot interior/architectural work on a tripod no matter what lens I'm using. I don't like using lights for interiors because my clients hire me for the natural look of my work, and no matter the lens, I'll shoot f/5.6-11 to keep things in focus. So the f/4 aperture isn't really an issue for either shooting situation. The lack of weather sealing wouldn't be a huge deal either. If the weather is inclement enough to potentially brick my non-weather sealed equipment, then I'm not going to enjoy being out there either, so things go back in the waterproof bag and I jet. 

 

I'm planning to buy the 10-24mm, as well as keep the 16mm. They both do different things really well.

 

TL;DR Consider the type of shooting you do and if the benefits outweigh the cost. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

this was with my 14.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

these the 16.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

more 16.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

10-24 at 10

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

10-24 at 24.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the 16m and altough it is an excellent lense, super sharp and amazing colours, I kinda regret I didnt get the 10-24. For me the lense would be a better fit for street- and travelphotography. You should look at your photos and decide what suits you better.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I use my 10-24 for street/landscape/casual work all the time.  I like the extra wide feature for when it is needed, and I like that at the full zoom, it is a 35mm full frame equivalent which is commonly used for casual/street work.  The I.S. in the lens is great for those low shutter speed hand held shots.

 

I use the 16/1.4 when I'm doing my regular wedding work when indoors and in low light ... so I use it at F1.4 almost all the time when indoors ... that and the 35/1.4 are great for that.

 

10-24/4 and 16/1.4 are two different lenses for two different purposes (at least for me).

Edited by Adam Woodhouse
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have both but find myself using the 10-24 most of the time.  More convenient, IQ is just as good, and there's something about 10mm that you'll never get with a 16mm.    Attached are 2 photos taken around GasTown, Vancouver Canada. 10-24mm on my X-T10.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Edited by starwatcher
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • It is really easy to find out if the wifi is on. Your computer or tablet or cell phone will have a network settings dealing with wifi, bluetooth, ethernet or “other”. Open that up and go into the section for wifi, and take note of which networks are listed. Turn on the camera and keep watching the list of networks. If your camera’s wifi is turned on, a new network should suddenly show up in your computer/tablet/phone’s network listings. Now go into the camera’s menus and start a wireless connection (the x-app or camera remote app can help you with this). You should see a network show up now. It is not hidden because it has to be visible so that your computer/tablet/phone can join the camera’s network to transfer images. Turn the camera off and that network should disappear. Turn the camera back on and see what happens.
    • Sweet Creek Falls, Oregon. X-H1, Viltrox 13mm F1.4, Acros.

      Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

      Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

    • I think my Fuji 150-600 F8 is a brilliant wildlife lens in terms of sharpness, portability and value but the small aperture does cause issues at the start and end of the day - even pushing the ISO as far as I dare, I can see shutter speed down to 1/25s - stabilisation isn't an issue but asking a deer to stand still for that is too much! In the same situation, an F4 would give 1/100s so the difference to the success rate would be phenomenal... and that's without the other improvements like shallower depth of field. I also find that the Fuji's subject detect AF gets pretty iffy in low light - I keep updating to the latest firmware but it doesn't seem to get any better. I was originally looking at the Nikon 500mm F4 E but good examples secondhand are still reasonably expensive but like-for-like Sigma lenses are around half the price. Reviews I have read suggest that they are as good optically, AF performance and IS-wise but you gain a few hundred grams of weight (but less than the older Nikon model). For a couple of grand, I can live with that. Does anyone have any experience mounting one on an XH2S? What about with the 1.4 teleconverter? It feels like that is pushing it anyway - hefty lens + TC + Fringer all sounds a bit...wobbly? It is on the Fringer approved list but I am wary about AF speed in particular. I had also considered looking for a used Nikon 400mm F2.8, which would be even faster (and heavier) and could couple with a TC to give 560mm F4 but again, it is that lens+TC+Fringer combination that worries me as being just too many links in the chain. Of course, what I really want is a native Fuji prime but that doesn't seem to be on the horizon - and if you look at what Nikon and Sony are doing, if Fuji do ever bring out a 500mm prime, it will probably be a small, light and cheapish F5.6, which is only 2/3 stop better than my zoom at the same focal length. Any thoughts anyone?
    • The Amazon link is an annoying feature of this forum - its automatic and is applied to every post for advertising purposes. My question was - how do you know the camera wi-fi is on and requires turning off? I would have thought this would just use up the battery for no purpose if you aren't specifically using a function that requires wi-fi.
    • I've made a point to push Angelbird memory products as they are the best performance cards you can get, The sustained write speed is important.
×
×
  • Create New...