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Everything posted by jlmphotos

  1. LOL. It's not like a dust pan. You won't see the dust collecting anywhere. I've been shooting Fuji since 2012 and I've yet to have my sensor cleaned in any camera. The auto sensor cleaner is a nice gimmick but in reality it's avoidance of dust, sand and other particles that will help keep the sensor clean. I don't change lenses in sandy areas. In dusty areas I keep my camera opening pointed downward at all times and before I attach the lens to the camera I make sure the rear ring where the contacts are located on the lens itself are clean by rubbing my finger around it. Then I make sure the rear element is not dusty. That's about all the precautions I take.
  2. I don't think the 50r was the "best" choice for fast moving concert images -- I'm assuming rock concerts is what you are shooting. I own both the 50r and the 100s and I shoot little league baseball and soccer with the 100s when I feel like goofing around, and use my XH1 when I really want to nail it with 11fps burst modes. As far as the "look" not sure what you mean. Is it the depth of field? At the distance you may be shooting concerts at, say from the pit, or the sides I do not feel it'll matter. You may want to go back to an X series for that type of photography and leave the 50r for more static or slower moving subjects.
  3. We are ALL Taking photos! I came back from a 50 day trip to the Yukon, and the Arctic with 9500 photos using my 30, 45, and 100-200. There you go.
  4. Might not be too late to return it unless you "map" the sensor. IT's one of the menu items
  5. Retired Locomotive head-on. G50r

    © Copyright 2021 Jorge L Moro

  6. That is not yet available on the 50r. Maybe, in a future firmware upgrade?
  7. I don't understand. Seriously. I shoot several X series, plus GFX. The ONLY sensor I have ever had to clean was my XT1 back in 2018 and that was only because I was at a camera store and they offered to do it for free. I shoot everywhere from the rainforests and jungles of Costa Rica, Florida, Iceland, Yukon, Alaska, etc and switch lenses often. I also shoot at F11-F16 80% of the time. I'm careful about where and how I swap lenses, but I haven't had the dust issues you guys have experienced. Maybe I've been lucky. Just me standing on my soapbox. I'm finished. LOL
  8. I had not. I don't have time. you should have listed it in your issues.
  9. I spent time in the rainforest and jungles, and beaches of Costa Rica with my XT2 and XH1 and though it was dripping humid many of the days I experienced ZERO problems. Even to this day (two years later) I have no issues whatsoever.
  10. I'm already on the list at B&H. I've been waiting for this lens for over a year! I just returned from a 50 day travel and stock trip to Alaska, Yukon and the Arctic Circle (all the way up to Deadhorse/Prudhoe Bay) and I would have LOVED to have had this lens for some wider shots. I used the 30mm for wide and at sometimes I stitched to get the grand view in which is ok with me but it would have been nice. My most used lens was the 100-200mm though. I may sell my 30mm if this 20-35 turns out to be a great one.
  11. Maybe I scanned this too fast but you don't specify what brand 35mm lens you used.
  12. On my cameras I use gaffer tape to cover the holes. I don't shoot video at all so I don't need a microphone. I'm more concerned about moisture/water getting in there than dust. I also use gaffer tape on the side doors (other than memory card slot door) for the same reason.
  13. Man, that is dead center! Haven't seen that before. Have you checked the front element closely? That's so odd. Depending on where you are, if it's not on the lens I'd reach out to Fuji. I'm assuming you bought the camera second hand? Did it have a limited warranty? If new, then return it.
  14. I use a blower first, then a lens brush. Afterwards, I get a Q-Tip, spray some lens cleaner fluid on it and use that to clean it. Hope this helps.
  15. interesting topic. I shoot with the XT1, XT2, XH1, 50r and 100s and honestly I don't compare color profiles to each one. I think they all look amazing --- but I will throw out there that my XT1 images, with only 16MP, produces some gorgeous images still to this day with over 135,000 shutter clicks.
  16. I had similar issue the first month I was shooting with my 50r. But, I believe it was due to the extreme cold I was in -- zero degrees F to about 25 degrees. I had to keep shutting it off and turning it back on. This went on for a couple of days but as I was on location I had no choice but to follow the procedure. I was debating returning it once I got back home. After a few days though it just stopped and it hasn't happened to me in over three years now. Not sure why they do that. I believe my XT2 also had that issue when I first got it as well back in 2016.
  17. Amazon has various styles of eyecups for the Fuji series. They are easy on / easy off. I've replaced them on my Xt1, Xt2, and Xh1.
  18. Just as an FYI: I did not ready ANYONE ELSE's comments here recently since there was an individual here back in January that was a total tool. I have been a LR user since version 1A BETA in 2006-7. I love Lightroom. However once I switched to Fuji in 2012 I was always looking for an alternate processing method such as Iridienet Developer, Luminar, etc because LR just did not cut it - with the worms, and the sharpening issues. I LOVE LR for the catalog feature but most if not all of my Fuji raws are processed in C1Pro. I've been using Capture One Pro for about three years and IMHO it is the BEST processor for Fuji Raw files. I have a pretty slick workflow to upload my images to LR, cull there, then transition the raws I want to work on over to C1Pro. Once I'm done there, I have a very simple export to move them back into LR. Hope that helps. J
  19. When I used the 50r for a couple of years I used my 2012 iMac 27" with 1TB HD, and 16GB of Ram as well as my 2014 MacBook Air with 8G of Ram and 256G HD Was it the best? For me it was. I shoot both JPEG & RAW at all times - and the files loaded fast enough. The most I ever loaded at one time was over 9,000 files after a month in Colorado. Does it take some time? YES. But since I'm not a run and gun guy and am retired and don't do weddings or events any more I don't mind the wait as I have other things to do. Now that I have the 100s those machines listed above just CHOKE. They do work, but you need the patience of a saint plus don't even think about doing HDR/photo merges, etc. Not happening. Since I bought my 100s I've switched to a 2020 iMac 27" 5k retina with 16G of RAM. I find the 100s files quite zippy - and I"m talking about the raw files as after I review the jpegs to decide what I want to keep/edit I chuck most of them. My iMac is a intel I-core 5 which at the time was the basic model available. Initially I bought it for my spouse to do her work on which is why I did not get more ram. Had I known I would move my work flow to her iMac I would maybe have purchased more memory. But, so far, I've done the 400MP stitching, photo merges, etc in LR and Photoshop, and I use Capture One for my post-processing and I am extremely happy. Another item which I started using at the beginning of the year for the 50r and the 100s files is my iPad Pro. I find that device to be a beautiful piece of equipment that I use both at home and on the road. It's smooth, great and true color reproduction and FAST on JPEG's and RAW. Since I only have the 512G version I use USBC Samsung Externals when needed. In a four weeks I'm headed to Alaska and the Arctic for two months to shoot travel and stock. I'm not taking my laptop - only my iPad Pro. I love working on it and have developed a workflow that works for me. I'm packing two Samsung T5 SSD 1TB externals, plus two Lacie Rugged 1TB externals for storage and backup. If I need additional storage I can pickup another external pretty much anywhere until I go to the more remote locations. Hope that helps.
  20. That's correct. Its incremental. You adjust. I use it all the time, and it works great. I'm usually at F11 - F16 range
  21. Regardless of what is in front of the sensor. When folks say they scratched the sensor, it's the actual glass on the front of the sensor that is actually scratched. However, those are wafers of glass on glass. So when the glass is scratched the entire unit is replaced, not just what's in front. It's more cost effective as far as material and labor to do it this way unfortunately. I used to clean my Fuji Finepix S1 pro and S2 pro (dslr's from 2002-2006) with a lens wipe cloth wrapped around the handle of a Wendy's plastic knife. Yes, a knife, not a spoon, not a fork. It literally covered the sensor PERFECTLY. Neat little trick. Good Luck!
  22. Agree with BCE except sending it to Fuji. Most likely the sensor is water damaged, and the motherboard is fried. I fried my XT2 in salt water. This happened in 2018 and Fuji wanted like $600US to repair. I wasn't that in love with it and besides there will be corrosion inside the crevasses and buttons etc. Look for another body. and I have to ask what happened to the lens?
  23. if you are sticking w Fuji either the 100-400, or the fairly new 70-300, as on the aps sensor it'll provide 105-450 range
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