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Everything posted by jlmphotos

  1. When I used the 50r for a couple of years I used my 2012 iMac 27" with 1TB HD, and 16GB of Ram as well as my 2014 MacBook Air with 8G of Ram and 256G HD Was it the best? For me it was. I shoot both JPEG & RAW at all times - and the files loaded fast enough. The most I ever loaded at one time was over 9,000 files after a month in Colorado. Does it take some time? YES. But since I'm not a run and gun guy and am retired and don't do weddings or events any more I don't mind the wait as I have other things to do. Now that I have the 100s those machines listed above just CHOKE. They do work, but you need the patience of a saint plus don't even think about doing HDR/photo merges, etc. Not happening. Since I bought my 100s I've switched to a 2020 iMac 27" 5k retina with 16G of RAM. I find the 100s files quite zippy - and I"m talking about the raw files as after I review the jpegs to decide what I want to keep/edit I chuck most of them. My iMac is a intel I-core 5 which at the time was the basic model available. Initially I bought it for my spouse to do her work on which is why I did not get more ram. Had I known I would move my work flow to her iMac I would maybe have purchased more memory. But, so far, I've done the 400MP stitching, photo merges, etc in LR and Photoshop, and I use Capture One for my post-processing and I am extremely happy. Another item which I started using at the beginning of the year for the 50r and the 100s files is my iPad Pro. I find that device to be a beautiful piece of equipment that I use both at home and on the road. It's smooth, great and true color reproduction and FAST on JPEG's and RAW. Since I only have the 512G version I use USBC Samsung Externals when needed. In a four weeks I'm headed to Alaska and the Arctic for two months to shoot travel and stock. I'm not taking my laptop - only my iPad Pro. I love working on it and have developed a workflow that works for me. I'm packing two Samsung T5 SSD 1TB externals, plus two Lacie Rugged 1TB externals for storage and backup. If I need additional storage I can pickup another external pretty much anywhere until I go to the more remote locations. Hope that helps.
  2. That's correct. Its incremental. You adjust. I use it all the time, and it works great. I'm usually at F11 - F16 range
  3. Regardless of what is in front of the sensor. When folks say they scratched the sensor, it's the actual glass on the front of the sensor that is actually scratched. However, those are wafers of glass on glass. So when the glass is scratched the entire unit is replaced, not just what's in front. It's more cost effective as far as material and labor to do it this way unfortunately. I used to clean my Fuji Finepix S1 pro and S2 pro (dslr's from 2002-2006) with a lens wipe cloth wrapped around the handle of a Wendy's plastic knife. Yes, a knife, not a spoon, not a fork. It literally covered the sensor PERFECTLY. Neat little trick. Good Luck!
  4. Agree with BCE except sending it to Fuji. Most likely the sensor is water damaged, and the motherboard is fried. I fried my XT2 in salt water. This happened in 2018 and Fuji wanted like $600US to repair. I wasn't that in love with it and besides there will be corrosion inside the crevasses and buttons etc. Look for another body. and I have to ask what happened to the lens?
  5. if you are sticking w Fuji either the 100-400, or the fairly new 70-300, as on the aps sensor it'll provide 105-450 range
  6. Dont. know of any but the 27mm 2.8 - either the original (which I own) or the revamped one with WR are amazing! I usually have it glued on my old(er) XT1 and it literally fits in my pant pockets
  7. I'm headed to Alaska and the Arctic circle for two months starting in a few weeks and I was truly hoping the GFX 20-35mm was released. Truly hoping... Unfortunately it doesn't look that way.
  8. Even though I can't offer a solution other than what others have stated here, I will say I bought this lens and used it for it's first official event. I was photographing three christenings back-to-back in the same church. The church was extremely well late in afternoon light with large windows down both sides, and skylights running down the center. Very well lit. The 56mm on my XT2 would not lock focus. It was absolutely miserable experience. I switched to using my 35 1.4, and my 18-55 and breezed through the three events! So, my experience with the 56 1.2 has not been positive at all and I would never own that lens. This particular event was on a Sunday, and I returned the lens on Monday morning and have never looked back Heck, I've used the slow and noisy 60mm 2.4 with better results than the 56... That was my experience with the 56mm.
  9. Could it be the memory card you are using? Have you tried different ones?
  10. If you just received the camera, and already have dead pixels I would send it back for another one. In all my years shooting Fuji, since 2012, I've only mapped twice and that was on my XT2 from 2016. IMHO you should not have to do this on an out-of-box camera.
  11. Oh My. LOVE THIS! May I ask where this Cafe is located/
  12. I have been using my iPad Pro instead of my MacBook Air for travel. Even uploading the JPEG's from the 100s and the 50r It's super fast! I LOVE not having to schlep a laptop, and charger. I edited this note to say that I use two SamSung T5 SSD's to store my JPEG's and RAW's. I the upload "most' of the JPEG's to my iPad which has 1TB of internal storage. Once Im done reviewing the images on the iPad, I usually delete many of the JPEG"S and am ready for the next days shooting. I also have synching back to LR turned off as the medium format files quickly clog up the transfer so I don't bother.
  13. Love this image in B&W. I've seen similar in color but not so much in B&W. Thanks for sharing.
  14. I believe it is - even if another button is assigned for focus. I have mine set to Continuous as this helps stabilize the image through the viewfinder when using a longer lens on. The difference in battery usage is not worth not having it on all the time.
  15. I'm very sorry you are experiencing these issues. I've dealt with Fuji Edison (NJ) going back to 2005 and have always been treated very well with no issues. I've had my Finepix S1Pro, S2Pro, S5Pro's serviced and repaired there literally by dropping them off (in on instance on a Thursday for a bad sensor) and picked it up Tuesday morning... This has been one of the many reasons I've stuck with Fuji. Damn--- I hope they haven't gone downhill --- last time I talked with them was about six months ago when I had a question I had about my 50r which they answered right on the phone. Please keep us appraised. Back to your lens: Wouldn't the repair be covered under warranty?
  16. So what? It's a freakin' beast of a camera. Great price now, and still available. I don't see the issue. I'd think if you are serious you'd want interchangeable -- or just grab the 50mm 3.5 and glue it on the front of the 50R. Heck, if I hadn't bought the 100s I'd buy another 50r. You have no idea how amazing that camera is. My two cents.
  17. Interesting. When on the tripod, I use electronic shutter (ES). However, Using the 100-200 zoom, I find that leaving the OIS of the lens to on works better. I was just using the 100s with the 100-200 zoom on a tripod at speeds down to 1/6th of a second and found the ES and OIS on worked better. This past summer while shooting out in Colorado I used a very lightweight tripod and found that on the 50R and the 100-200 combo the images were much better with OIS on the lens activated. Just my two cents worth but I would use ES on non-moving objects given half a chance. However, I do need to do further testing...
  18. Hello everyone, Hope all is well. I have a quick question: I'm going to sell some of my X gear that I'm no longer using. For some reason I cannot find the link. Can someone provide? Many Thanks J
  19. Minolta lenses are fabulous on Fuji cameras! I use Minolta 55mm and 58mm lenses on my XT1 and other bodies. J
  20. On my 100s the L 4:3 is 11648 x 8736. The L3:2 is 11648 x 7768. I'm not sure why the 35mm format would be a different size from the regular 100s. I turned off the 35mm format mode on mine while I was in the setup changes.
  21. Revision: I purchased the 100s last week to use in conjunction with my 50R. The iPad Pro works PHENOMENALLY!!! The JPEG's plus the lossless and uncompressed RAW files work just fine. Load fast - I use LR on the iPad. And I still stand by my decision not to take my laptop on my Alaska trip. Only the iPad Pro this time.
  22. I'd suggest looking at Fuji's underdog lens the 60mm 2.4 Macro. It's not 1:1, it's 1:2 reproduction but I've owned it for years and I love it! It's lightweight, focuses fast enough for my type of work, and it is a micro-contrast BEAST.
  23. I bought that lens several years ago. I was shooting two back-to-back events in a beautiful, well-lit church. There were windows down both sides, and skylights. Beautiful light. I attempted to use the 56 1.2 and it was utter frustration and failure as it failed to focus time after time! I switched to my 35 1.4, and the 18-55 (as I didn't own the 16-55 at the time)and the 60mm F2.4 and finished the two events with no issues after that. The 18-55 was fast enough. the 35 and the 60 hunted some for a split second but unlike the 56 1.2 they did lock on target. This was on a Sunday; and on Monday I returned the 56 1.2. I've never looked at another since. I think I was using the XT-2 at the time so I'm not sure how the same lens would handle on the newer models.
  24. Well that sucks. I've been shooting with the 50R for over two years and have not had this happen. I'm about to order a 100s. Is this normal? Anyone else experiencing this?
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