MartinP

what is the pp behind this? my camera shoots grey, not black and white.

yes, it is normal. the capacity isnt very large. also if you use a third party battery, they usually last less than the original from fuji. they show that they are fully charged for a long time and then suddenly drop power.. maybe that is your case. if you have the original fuji battery, it is also possible, that the battery went through too many charging cycles and is tired and the capacity is simply too low. to save battery, try to turn off your camera as often as possible so that the rear display or the evf display do not eat battery power. i have one original that came with the camera and two pieces of cheap alternatives. usually its sufficient for one day of casual photographing.

...and 3 acceleration modes (linear, softly accelerated after each step, more accelerated after each step) (i guess many things could be adjusted smoothly via a curve adjustment and not in three discrete steps, but it would be easier with a touch screen)

to yukosteel: so you say there are a combination of metals as you disassembled the lens. they usually react differently to a temperature change. does the focusing part still rotate smoothly if you take it from warmed up room 25°C to freezing cold environment outside, say around -10°C? thank you for any hints.

i see a lot of bottles on the table

this is strange. i thought only the x-e2s had this problem with tiny hole in the evf, and not being able to see the whole composition comfortably from corner to corner. i think this has to change. it is the most basic thing for creating a photograph confidently. i dont want to type a 100 line rant about it here. i simply expect fujifilm to improve this hindrance in any future viewfinder camera they might be thinking to put on the market.

i think i forgot: a realtime white point temperature measurement display

so i have this troubling occurence oftentimes when the focus with the AF-L button has been locked, the hand-held taken image isnt sharp. anyone else had this problem or has an insight as what exactly may have gone wrong? doesnt happen using shutter button. firmvare version 1.02 from june 2016 both body and the kit zoom 18-55mm. maybe OIS gets suppressed somewhat when in AF-L state or or the dynamic range extender via higher ISO usage goes haywire (i mostly use DR200 mode ISO400+) or my handshake is too brutal? thanks for an eventual input. (jpeg from camera example is attached, see building in lower left corner for example - resized to 1MB as per this board's requirements) software: digital camera X-E2S v1.02 exif version: 02.30 aperture priority auto exposure metering mode: pattern sharpness: hard wb: manual iso: 400 exposure: 1/480s shutter speed: 1/505s F/5.6 FL 31.5mm focal plane width: 2092ppcm edit: a 1:1 crop from the image attached additionally, because im not sure if the full size would be available for download. edit2: i should have added that a second image was taken under the one focus lock with a bit more sky than ground and it suffers the exactly same effect. so it seemd like "the blur had been saved" using the AF-L button in single focus point mode. i unfortunatelly havent checked the focus distance on the display scale after locking, because i fully trusted it would lock precisely. the light was there and there was no apparent reason for the camera to wrongly focus. the two pictures looked fine on camera screen, so i didnt bother until i opened it in the computer. of course this means that after every AF-L i have to view the image to make sure it doesnt suffer from ill effects. and since viewing a picture clears the last AF-L im looking at a pretty awkward shooting experience here..

hmm, i wonder how you make the fine detail contrast.. is it oversharpening? https://www.flickr.com/photos/89936857@N03/29074389143/in/photostream/ i remember watching the photo of you in a basket earlier this year, but didnt notice it was a whole serial wrapped around wall watching topic. its crazycool.

spencer pigot, acura tlx and ryan hunter-reay make my heart beat accelerate.. i wanna be puma cat too. edit: maybe you have Joseph Newgarden more from the side, leaving the chicane when you shot burst mode? the car has nice dark green tones, could fill more of the frame against the brighter backgrounds. edit2: did you use time priority or full manual?

since the X-E3 will come as a last member of the 24mpix sensor product line, it deserves some heavy optimizations: 3.69M-dot viewfinder with 0.85x magnification with a bigger peeking hole and a bigger eyecap so that the sun isnt such a terrible bother as it is now the case of x-e2(s) without a custom workaround larger capacity batery http://www.solidenergysystems.com option to lock white balance together with the AE-Lock (Lock_WB On) render actual focal length of zoom lenses on screen in real-time usb battery charging (maybe also use of USB3.x for transfers, but thatd require connector with more pins on camera's side) ability to save a descriptive text memo to each picture aperture calibration option for manual focus lens (until the camera is turned off) and thus automatic F number detection between opened and closed aperture including halfstops and respective transfer of the F number to exif data (unless there is a way to recognize and register each lens attached using a characteristic light print of each lens on sensor or some other way to recognize any particular lens) option to select a precise distance for which an AF lens should pre-focus itself (direct setting via phone or tablet remotely and on camera possibly by using arrows as in time lapse digit setting or utilizing the focus ring to quickly dial distance figures in combination with some milimeter, meter and kilometer switch like the command dial wheel on the back, which is usually used to adjust shutter speed or aperture) focus bracketting option for taking an automated stack of in-focus pics mostly at F4-5.6 to be stacked later (or in camera if fuji feels like its worth the effort), selectable distance range like 0,2m to 00 (something - to - infinity) or 20m to 90m with a confirmation question should the camera be tasked to take 30 consecutive pictures (like this: 30 images needed, ok to proceed?) if exposure time drops below desired value while in autoISO mode, display that time value in a different colour as a warning (red, yellow, orange, violet, pink, whatever) detachable corner viewfinder with an approximately 1m long thin spiral data cable to be inserted between camera and evf or camera and other imaging device preferably with calibrated colours and clearly defined color space (placing evf directly to the eye, camera movement becomes 100% independent = no need for flippable rear display anymore) "attempt" to minimize blackout in continuous shooting coupled with an attempt to lock focus in continuous mode rolling shutter distortion negation - latency compenstation using the OIS gyro's acceleration data to dynamicaly shift line of data readout from sensor area (probably needs to decrease the video crop a bit to increase sensor area readout for videoframes, limited to lenses with gyroscopes unless gyros installed in the body - there are some actually for the electronic level indicator) possibly make the thumb-rest with AF-L and AE-L buttons a bit bigger towards back side, so that the thumb has larger area to lay against and feels really comfortable (it is a bit too shallow as it is and requires holding the camera more tightly utilizing whole palm which is fatiguing over long period of time, if i let go, my thumb would just slip along the upper round smooth arc directly under the exposure comp dial. it doesnt have to be superbig, just let it grow 1 or 2mm to the back and shift it 1mm to the right side and elevate the curvature of the plastic part that copies the shape of the thumb 1-2mm to the upside or better yet, merge the plastic thumb-rest with the upper frame in one whole part and the thumb curvature can be then lifted even higher under the exposure comp dial making even more room for the thumb - as of now the thumb-rest is a separate plastic part, this would also allow to place the AF-L and AE-L buttons 1 or 2mm higher for better accessibility without the need to painfully bend the thumb which is the case of current AE-L, also make these buttons a little bit larger area-wise, i think there is enough room for it and wuld be even more after you inflate the thumb-rest to enlarge them about 10% of their current area) increased diameter of exposure and exposure comp dials so that they are more comfortable to set (could mean enlarging the body ~2mm to the right, but if you implememnt the joystick, the enlargement of the body would happen anyway). a little cutout in the upper frame directly under the main time exposure dial for better access with fingertips wuld be nice (in case of larger dial diameter, it would be enough to cut in the front only, since the dial is shifted more towards the back-side and yes, it would mean there would not be a straight line on the facial side of the camera anymore, but thats the way of ergonomy, unless you want to make the dial twice as high so it can be comfortably rotated with two fingertips using just a gentle force) it would be nice to have a lens-centered tripod screw at the bottom-side (im not using the mhg-xe, because im worried the arca swiss extension would get in the way of my fingertips while handling the camera as i do and more over itd increase the overall weight which is undesirable for me) what else..? maybe the ability to detach the mic st1 using a spiral cable and holding it at a larger distance from the camera, making it somewhat more independent and less prone to pick up the hum from the lens stabilizing mechanism and clicks of the dials that would be adjusted on the camera on the fly otherwise im quite satisfied with the shape, layout and materials of x-e2s, so i guess those micro adjustments in body size would mostly serve for better handling and would not drastically change the look of the body. edit: yea i knew i wanted something unreal, a (touch) slider (or trackball, cylinder) on the left side of the camera for setting the ISO as smoothly as possible, while aperture and exposure time are both locked edit2: a metering mode to completely avoid overexposure edit3: i guess shifting the 4 arrow selector 2mm to the upside will make it more natural to control with thumb once the camera is glued to one's eye.. edit4: option to show a larger and fatter version of the focus+dof scale on the display spanning from edge to edge of the display possibly with precise distance markings at least under each number for more confident manual focusing during video or even single shots. itd be nice if the display showed distance as a figure, which would be especially useful in the vague tiny space between 10meters and infinity, where you cannot tell if you are focused at 50m or at 1,3km or at the moon..

hi guys. i bought a usb to usb micro cable to be able to quickly move files from camera to computer, but the system requires a usb ptp driver (picture transfer protocol) to be installed. do you know where i could find such a usb typ of driver for x-e2s? the last ptp driver available from fuji support page is from early 2000s for finepix cameras :-/

the only reason i can think of why it would behave that way is if one of the lenses were stored in a warm place and the camera was out in the cold, causing the mounting mouth possibly shrink.

thanks for chiming in, milandro. what kind of those two would you choose if you were in my shoes? kiwi or the other one with the white strip? (i may take both, since there could be a day im in a mood for a white strip and then the next day, i could feel like going completely black, oh those decisions... sigh, hopefully none will have light leaking)

hello all you x-men... im kindly asking for an advice as to what adapter would best fit this lens's end (of fujinon 55m f1.6) as it is certainly not the good old screw mount42, but a bayonet fitting: i think i would need to choose between the following two, but would prefer a confirmation from someone knowledgeable: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FUJICA-X-FUJINON-Lens-Adapter-to-Fujifilm-X-Mount-Camera-X-Pro1-2-X-T1-T10-A2-E2-/181744873571 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuji-AX-Fujica-old-X-lens-to-Fujifilm-X-mount-Fuji-X-Pro1-FX-E1-M1-E2-T1-adapter-/401042997337 thank you for consideration! (id like to adapt it to x-e2s)