CRAusmus

Don't know why Sony would launch one. I went Fuji over Sony due to their lens selection, I'm with darknj, it would be stupid for them to do it. Fuji has been in the medium format business for decades, it's a natural progression for them to come out with one. As far as success goes, it's all about setting their expectations for it and getting the structure right. With anything like that it's about volume and margin, the trick with Fuji will be how quickly do they expect the MF side of their line to be profitable. That'll allow them to set their margins for the volume they expect to turn out. Hopefully they can have a decent enough margin to remain competitive to what's already on the market.

It's a mechanical focal plane shutter so you can't get rid of the shutter sound. But it shuts off all the beeps and AF Assist lamp etc...

I've never found a situation where Continuous Focus works more efficiently then Single. If I'm shooting sports or action I'm either tracking, or I've prefocused on the area and waiting on the subject to enter the frame. If you intend to shoot this kind of stuff though I think the T1 is the better camera for you. It's got multiple AF modes that aid in shooting moving objects, that I think really shine when shooting action. I don't think I've ever used C-AF on the Pro1 though, so perhaps someone else can chime in with how to get the best performance out of it.

Just hit the AF button and use the d-pad to move it around, the command dial to change the size. In OVF, you only have 25 positions for the AF Area, unlike in EVF/LCD, you have 49. Never mind. That's single focus. Misunderstood the question. You can't move it in continuous...

They may be taller, but they look to take up the same real estate on the top plate as they do on the T1. First world problems I guess. For all we know, this isn't even legit.

The dials look the same size they are on the T1.

I was looking through my "Mastering the X-Pro1" book again last night and realized something that I hadn't realized before... When you turn on "Corrected AF Frame", you have two AF Frames inside your OVF, one solid and one with dashed lines. The dashed lines gives you a focus area for objects at about 32 inches. Playing with it last night, really helped me in focusing on objects at closer distances. I've always had this on, but just goes to show that really reading through these manuals and books helps you to fully understand your camera and how to use it to the best of it's ability. I'm just gonna read the whole book again I think, as flipping through, there are several other things I want to re-explore with my Pro1.

I think you'll enjoy it. Just learn to use the tools Fuji gives you and you'll be successful using the OVF. Learning how to read the histogram and using it in conjunction with the EV meter (when in full manual) will help you nail your exposure...

I think you can have them custom made. Someone here said an eyeglass company makes them. You obviously have enough frames. Now you just need to get the right glass in it.

In my opinion the most important aspect to mastering the OVF of the Pro Series cameras are mastering the Histogram. Parallax is only an issue for something inside, say 1.5 meters or so. If you're that close fill the frame with your subject to focus and reframe, or zone focus if you shoot this close and use an aperture that will give you the depth you want... Just how I use the Pro1 though. For all I know I could be doing it wrong... Any camera brought to your eyes draws attention. This is the advantage of the X100s/t, or the T-1, the articulating screen allows you to shoot without anyone really knowing you are.

35 ƒ1.4. I don't think I've ever taken it off my Pro1. Not that I can recall anyway. The 14 pretty much lives on my T-1 as well...

It's a fact that the human eye has way more dynamic range then your camera does. Sometimes you want to show the view what you are seeing and you can't do it with one exposure in camera. Photoshop is just a tool. I just saw an image today from a Red Bull Photographer of Tommy Caldwell climbing the Dawn Wall with the sky and the valley lit up. The photographer described being on that wall shooting this climb and seeing the sky full of stars and the valley lit below, but because Tommy was climbing in the dead of night to get the coldest temps possible, the camera could not capture the scene as he saw it, so he took multiple exposures and combined them in PS... To answer your question, as graphic designer I use Photoshop, sometimes all day long. I tend to use Illustrator and InDesign more than photoshop though. Just really depends on the time of year and what the objective of the moment is... There is also no debate...Ansel Adams was a master behind the lens, and in the darkroom. Many of the early photographers spent more time in the darkroom then they did behind the lens capturing the image.

I miss focus on my Pro1, when the subject is about 1.5 meters and closer. I always forget that I have to shift to EVF, and always miss it. Glad to see this is something that has gotten better with the Pro2.

I hadn't even considered all those circumstances Rico. I apologize to the OP for my misleading post, and reading back it seemed condescending....Sorry Jerry... Obviously there is a lot I don't understand about OIS and the conditions in which it can aid your shooting...

I'm no expert, but I'd say this is entirely dependent on focal length and how you shoot. And why would you be asking what's the maximum shutter speed you can use OIS? Above a certain shutter speed, OIS isn't doing anything for you and is just draining battery life.

RRS has announced their plate for the Pro2. You can now preorder it from them. http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/BXPro2-L-Set-L-Plate-for-X-Pro-2

I hear a lot of people raving about the Samyang 12. You might consider that one. Maybe some folks who have it will chime in. I have the 14, and it's plenty wide for me, but you might not consider 21 to be wide enough...Especially coming from the 8... As for the 56...You will love it. I found it to be incredibly sharp and very quick. I think you'll like it for some of your events and will find it very versatile..

I do street with the 35 ƒ1.4. The 16 blows it away. There are a lot of people who do street with the 18, the 16 blows it away too. I don't know who said you couldn't do street with the 16, but they were lying..

Snap shot of my dally carry kit. Ona Brixton Apple MacBook Pro 13 Fuji X-Pro1 w/ 35ƒ1.4 Fuji X-T1 w/ 14ƒ2.8 Fuji XF60ƒ2.4 Xtra Battery in Tenba Reload Cleaning Bits Noise Canceling Buds Moleskin Weekly Planner Apple iPad Mini2 Filed Notes Pocket NoteBook Apple iPod 80gig Peak Design Leash Pens & Pencils

I'm betting the bugs are a result of what delayed the release date... I doubt very seriously they were aware of this. This would've been one of the first things the Fuji Pros told them about. Can't shoot a wedding if your settings keep resetting on you.

When I am considering a lens, one of the places I go is to Flickr and look for people who shoot the lens, then I spend quite a bit of time looking at their photos taken with that lens...https://www.flickr.com/photos/spyrospapaspyropoulos/ As far as I can tell, every time Spyros shoots his Fuji, he shoots it with the 18. His style may not be what you like, but look at his photos, the 18 is an impressive lens for it's price, and it's size only adds to it's appeal. At any rate, this method is one of the best for researching purchases in my opinion... https://www.flickr.com/search/?q=XF%2018%20f2.0

I noticed that, but what I meant was that the 35mm equivalent focal length of the 16, is more common then the 14. Meaning that 24 is more common then 21 (when people speak of a landscape lens, they speak of 24 or 28, I don't think I've ever heard someone mention a 21). I should have worded my statement better by a long shot...lol... I'm glad that you cleared that up for the OP if there was any confusion as to what the 16 actually worked out to be the equivalent to...Sometimes I just assume everyone knows what words are bouncing around in my head and that like myself, everyone automatically adds half the focal length to the lens when talking about it.. At any rate...no harm no foul...

I'm aware of the 1.5x factor. Thank you. 24 is more common than the 21 (14mm equiv). I started to suggest the 18, but it didn't seem to fit his shooting style, so I left it out...

The 14 is a wonderful lens. I love mine. The 16 is much bigger and heavier then the 14. If I were you I'd try and rent them both. I liked the 16 for it's more common (35mm equiv) focal length, but wound up getting the 14 because the price just couldn't be beat. I love the results I get with it on my XT-1. The 16 is also incredible fast to focus, and ridiculously sharp. I shoot mainly street and reportage type stuff, so I don't much need that corner to corner. All that being said, I have not been dissatisfied with the results from my 14 at all. I am wondering why you don't want to pair the 16-55 with the 50-140. They are the natural pair in my opinion, but I understand the 18-55 is such a good lens at the price. I eventually want to replace my two zooms with the 16-55 and the 50-140 though. The 50-140 does work with the 1.4 tele and will work with the 2x as well, so I think that's the best choice, in my opinion. My 35 ƒ1.4 lives on my Pro1. I've never taken it off that camera. It's my most used lens, until the 23 ƒ2 comes out at least...