CRAusmus

If I were presented with those options, I'd go with the XT-1, but I don't have, and have never shot, the T-10...

No worries man. I think you're gonna have to rethink your budget though. If I were you, I'd go with the 35. It's closer to what your eye actually sees, and will help you learn composition and framing better, in my opinion, when you are just looking around without the camera. Not to mention it's an excellent lens. Lastly. Don't pick something just because everyone here is telling you to. I spent a year going to camera stores and bugging staff, and holding cameras, trying different lenses on them, renting cameras and lenses and just talking with staff. The only thing I knew when I decided to invest in a new digital system was that I wanted mirrorless. But I flopped back and forth between Sony and Fuji so many times it was laughable. All these guys would have told me the same crap they are telling you. You have to make the decision you will be happy with. I can tell you, looking at other photographer's photos won't make you shoot like them. I looked at Brian Matiash and Chris Burkard so much I was almost all but decided on the Sony A7 series. In the end, I decided that for the quality of the glass, the price, the value they place on their customer, the lens lineup I wanted to build, and the photography I want to do; the Fuji system was for me. I'm now invested in it 100 percent and don't have a single regret.

16, 35, 90 if I owned your lens lineup. I'm planning a trip to Vancouver next month and only taking my 14, 35, and 60 (poor man's prime set up), and will be focusing on much the same subject matter as you are.

Really hoping that the price rumors are off a bit. If this is intended to compete with GR, Fuji missed that mark by a mile. I don't think you can sway a GR customer at this price. Not with the reputation the GR has. You need to come in right around $550 in order to do that I think.

You need to look at the lens lineup real hard. I was headed much the same way you are. In the end I went with Fuji due to the quality of glass, and their commitment to fleshing out their line. The A7's are hell a great cameras, but the lenses are expensive and there ain't a whole hell of a lot of them either. Just what I learned in my research, and although that was last year, things haven't changed much at all. In the year I've owned my XT-1, Fuji has added 4 lenses, a teleconverter, announced an upgrade to a body, announced a new body, released a new body, and handed out 3 firmware upgrades (that introduced totally new features, not the typical fix bugs) to the customers of the body I purchased. And that's just what I can recall off the top of my head. There's an old saying in photography. You buy bodies, you invest in glass. The body you purchase this week will be replaced in a couple of years, but the glass you buy to go with it will dictate what you buy next.

The ISO dial would bother me. On my XPro1 I keep my ISO in auto when shooting street. In Nature and Model photography your situations shouldn't be changing that rapidly that it becomes an issue. In street, model and Nature photography the frame rate shouldn't be an issue. Not sure what they've said about the buffer of the XT-10, but even if you were shooting a lion chasing down a gazelle I don't think you'd have an issue. However when you said nature photography, I assumed you meant landscape. However if you don't feel comfortable with it, then you should grab the XT-1.

I'd go for the XT-1, or T-10. If you've never shot with, or enjoyed shooting with an Optical Viewfinder (or rangefinder) then I don't think you'd enjoy the 100T or the X-Pro's. If you like the form of the these cameras but will never use the OVF, then go with X-E2. Milandro will tell you it's a wonderful camera that is more than capable. The XT-1/T-10 is a wonderful camera that you can grow into. When I turned back to digital from analog, I grabbed the XT-1. It's an absolute joy to shoot and you never have to mess with a menu when you're out on the street if you don't want to. Throw the 27, 18, or even the 23 or 35 on it and it's a wonderful street camera. I love the 35 on mine, and the new 35 makes it even more compact.

Every Fuji Rep I talk to says that Fuji is currently working with a company on a dedicated flash system that will offer what studio photographers want/need. They also confirmed that they were working with Metz before the financial issues. They seem to be focused on this issue and know that it is pretty much the only thing from keeping them from the top of the hill, that being a serious flash solution for studio photographers. I have no idea how difficult this is, but it seems like they should have something by now. It seems like if they were as close as it seems they should be there would be at least some kind of leak about it though. Many Fuji pros are hoping they are working with Phottix, although I have never gotten any rep to tell me who they are woking with.

Could be an aluminum frame like the GR maybe. That would be nice. It'd be really nice if this were priced at less than the GR, but that's just wishful thinking on my part. However if it were, I'd be in line at launch...

What were the first quarter markdowns on the T-1? Seems like it was around $2-300 (w/kit lens). If the Pro 1 is launched at 1799 (is this as a kit, or body only?), and they start their markdowns that would put it around 1599 worst case? Or am I way off here? Too many questions yet to be answered....As Milandro says, all questions will be answered on the 15th...

I like it. Would be cooler if it had a Viewfinder. Maybe an accessory like the GR? Any idea on price Patrick?

SO T-Man's price may go up $100. As far as I see, he's just reporting what happened and what he knows. $100 is not that huge of an increase in price is the store he put his deposit down got it wrong, but obviously they have some idea. Even if it's $200, T-Man seems perfectly happy to pay the increase. With his information, and Patrick's we have a good idea of what the cost will be and neither are that far apart from each other... $100-$200 dollars is not a substantial difference when you are talking about $1700.

It's a great capture Erez. Not one that is easy to get I'd imagine. I say show it. We draw inspiration from many sources and sometimes we may produce something that looks similar to another photographer. The only way I wouldn't show this photo is if you staged it, but I have strong doubts you did. You most likely didn't even realize it until much later, if ever, that it was similar to McCurry's. When moments like this happen, you have to capture them and hope that you are able to produce something captivating. You did that my friend.

I think he's referring to the similarity between that and a McCurry Image. At any rate, great images. Good work.

I love grain. I often add some in LR, but I also shoot film that is known for grain... It will be a fun setting to experiment with.

I was just reading a blog by David duChemin the other day in which he ran across this with one of his lenses. He used gaffer tape during the trip, but touched it up with black model paint when he returned. Might be worth it for your most used landscape lens, but this will hurt the resale value, but who worries about that? I believe in getting it right in camera too, rather than having to compromise your exposure in the field an having to try and achieve the look you want in computer...

I'd say of the lenses you own, the 16 most likely. I've not gotten to use the 23 yet though. However every sense needs good contrast to focus. This probably comes from my film days, but I always find the highest contest area of the subject then recompose. I find the even the 60 to be zippy.

That is the reason I have both myself, and I'm betting it's why darknj does too. There is a place for both systems. Both are high quality, and you'll be pleased with which ever you decide to purchase.

If the XT-1 can survive war in the Middle East, and months of traveling from one end of Africa to the other, I'm positive it can survive a week at Burning Man.

3 Legged Thing "Rick".

I'm hoping, like Dan said, that it's the lift and turn dial that is on almost every film camera I've ever used. The lock, now, only works to keep you from accidentally turning the dial out of Auto. You want it to be easy enough to turn without moving your eye from the viewfinder... At any rate, we'll see soon enough.

I use Peak Design and have a Black Rapid as well. Although I use the Leash, instead of the Slide due to the versatility of this strap, and how well it works with the capture clip; which I also use. In all fairness to the articles above, Peak Design have redesigned many of these things that were causing the issues. In the article about the anchor failing in the comments the user admitted that he rarely if ever checked his anchors. As with any strap, you should always check for wear when you get ready to take your camera out. The anchors have also been redesigned with layers of dyneema in yellow and then red under the black outer sheath. It's very easy to spot wear now where as before you had to inspect more closely. The issues I find with most of these things are user error and not so much manufacturing defects. The Arca compatible plate does block the battery port, as any plate would. I don't use the plate unless I'm using the clip or my tripod. For this reason, Peak Design designed the Drive Screw, which works the same as the Black Rapid screw. The anchors do not bother me at all. Having Black Rapids Screw attached all the time bothered me more, but that was just a personal thing. Black Rapid does have a fold flat screw, as is Peak Designs. I prefer the Peak Design over the Black Rapid for how secure it feels to me and how well the system works, although I typically carry it in the front position and not as a sling. The versatility of the Peak Design, in that it can be worn as a sling, as a neck strap, as a leash, etc. is why I ultimately prefer it.

No reason to be concerned about rumors not being spread.

The AW 1 is one of Burkard's most used cameras. If he can use it to make the money he's making and sell the big images he sells, it's a capable system. It does need more lenses though. But the size of this system obviously shows just how small this market is for this kind of system. I do wish they would expand it though or that a company would just enter this niche market and focus solely on it.

Most likely the 3 buttons on the D-Pad, as well as the click wheels will also serve as customizable function buttons, and who knows what the new joystick will be capable of. Kind of hoping the one on top can be configured as a Wi-Fi button. Is it possible to a have diopter correction dial on an OVF? Figured you had to have the attachable lenses to achieve that...