Vidalgo

Exactly. I would say even more - these cameras (and lenses) are designed mainly for two-hand operation. In contrary of portable camcorder, for example. Easy with pancakes. For medium-sized or big lenses, add a good grip.

That's a typical symptom of intermittent contact(s), place - connector on main board where the ribbon cable from LCD is attached. To understand how it works, take a look on photos at Step 15 from this link: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Fujifilm+X-M1+Disassembly/56288 The link is related to another model, X-M1, so parts are looks different but the principle is the same and clearly shown. The locking part of connector (narrow brown strip), on your camera, probably wasn't settled firmly at assembling stage, and then been self-loosed, or some else reason (tolerances issue for example). What can you do with all it. Best way is to go to an authorized service, even if warranty time expired. Should be low cost work. Or fix it with own hand. Fixing (locking of connector) is very simple for any average technician, but opening of camera may be too complex task. Some screws are hidden under glued skin (and exact position is unknown of course). Can be some clip locks on plastic parts. Basically, for access to that connector you need to open the back panel only. Here the link of X-E1 disassembly, may be helpful too: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/53411958

X-T1 + XF 55-200, f5.6 150mm

E2 with 18-55 at F8 no idea what the name

Wow. Here, in Israel, lowest cost of 16mm is $860 approx. and that including our 17% VAT.

Merсi. Was processed from RAF. I never liked play with settings for JPEGs and here what I got straight from the camera:

Eilat Mountains. A kind of remote landscape with compression. Looks a bit flat though. Taken from hotel balcony through the small gap between the surrounding buildings.

Check other Fuji lines. XP90 - rugged; waterproof; small; 200gr; easy to use; zoom 5x with OIS; under 200$;

Agree. Overall performances are similar enough. Then weight or price considerations are starting to rise. Or something more individual. My copy of 50-230 performs better from middle to long end, while my copy of 55-200 is better from wide end up to middle.

Any listed options have a lens? Otherwise, all 3 looks too much expensive

Short story: For my X-T1, I had original Fuji grip ("medium" size) and after several months replaced it with iShoot grip, for 2 reasons: - iShoot grip has L-bracket (removable) while Fuji grip not has any - Fuji grip not allows screen tilting when pulling it's bottom side, need to pull upper side first. Just bug of design. Both grips are comfortable for my hands, I think the iShoot grip is a bit better. So, when I purchased E2S I immediately went to iShoot grip option and happy with it.

I manage to keep two lens lines: zooms for travel (where my 10-24 is used probably at 50-60% of time) and primes for planned works when I have a time and possibilities for preparing. So I keep 23/1.4 and happy with it, 14/2.8 is my next planned purchase.

I use various cards in range from 16G to 64G, but my travel starts with fastest cards - that's help to save battery a bit. Yes. Then I use my "regular speed" cards. Slow cards are last in my queue.

roots from fairy tale!

"a very common problem" is never touched me for 2.5 years of using of X-T1

As a speculation. 18/2, 35/1.4 and 60/2.4 should to share the same rendering, or to be similar enough. Reasons: - These lenses were designed at the same time, probably by the same team, from same materials (glass, coating, etc.), and produced on same machinery. Even packing boxes are too similar. - These lenses shares the same focusing technology, Fuji call it ALG - All Lens Groups /are moving on focusing/. Quote from official web pages: Apart from marketing, it is also a kind of info of rendering.

70,000 releases average, unofficial info for X-E2. Should be similar number for X70.

For me, b/w version looks bad. Sorry. Foliage is hardly separated from rocks, has almost the same luminosity. Especially at left upper side.

Fantastic!

Have no any complaints against 10-24, it's my workhorse (together with 18-55) for trips through urban jungles. I own it almost 2 years, purchased from Japan via an ebay store, because at that moment our local prices were too overpriced. My interests are architecture, landscapes, interiors, street art, etc. This lens just right for me. With usual precautions, like with any machine, I don't get any problems from raindrops or dust, hot weather or cold, whatever. It works! OIS is really really good, I can go even up to 1/2-1/3 sec handheld at lowlight, with good repeatability. I believe that rumored 8-16/2.8 lens will be (if yes) the addition to the red-labeled line - bulky and costly, probably without OIS. And narrowed range of zoom. So, I'm not interested on it, as a replacement of my 10-24. As an addition? Even worse. Theoretically, adding a wide prime lens like 12 or 14 will let me more. BTW, fisheye 8-16 zoom should be very funny stuff Or tilt-shift wide zoom. Why no.

Based on your list, I would take for Morocco these lenses: 18-135, 23, 14. Actually, dust is not the issue, unless you're spend days in wild desert or some windy area. I live in Israel which is considered as desert and dusty region, but I don't get any significant issues with dust, no matter what a lens. The real issue is harshness of sun for whole day. Hot air, strong UV and IR.

Why photo. Use nose. Natural leather has the smell of natural leather.

Even without a lines: vibrance raised to make it more visible

Not macro but telephoto, screwed add-ons for extending of focal length. By factors from x1.54 to x3. You can see it here: http://www.raynox.co.jp/english/video/selection/selection.html#telephoto They make it for camcorders, but of course is possible to use with stills camera. IQ is another story. Note the such converter is really big and heavy, and total setup can be disaster.

Simplest reason - grab them all !