milandro

it’s a long way to the top ☺️

this appears to be a group detachment. As you may know, they are glued. A physical lens shock or a thermal shock may be responsible for this.

Mayan village

Mayan village

Mayan village

Obviously there are no electrical contacts in this type of adapter and the aperture of the lens is also electrical so it will only work at its most ope aperture

After many years of use and no serious malfunction. I have had the shutter jammed, locked in its upright position while shooting in continuous mode and fast shutter speed. Maybe my aging camera wasn’t used to this 👹, after all it is used mostly in single shot, but it locked down ofter 150 shots. The message to restart camera with on off button appeared a few times and then even that one wasn’t working. So I enjoyed the rest of the car race and looked at the camera today. The camera was still turning on (but not off) after replacing the battery. It would shoot twice but then the shutter would be jam shut in the upright position. It was not a button problem, it was a shutter jam. So I concluded that this required some old fashioned “ persuasion”. I slapped the camera with my flat hand on the bottom a couple of times, prior to that I had put the shutter on T. Fortunately the shutter was able to put itself in place and then the T shutter position was now operational. I am not sure that everything is working fine but preliminary tests show the camera working. I hope the problem won’t come back . Maybe this will be of some use for fellow X-T1 (or other cameras, I am afraid that this may be more common than most people may think.

It al depends from the thickness of the system. I don’t see why not. I have an X-T1 and I am still using it. I am no longer using the 60mm macro.

yes, a spacer, not an adapter, there are special spacers, this serves the purpose to allow focusing without impeding the movement of the lens (which is causing the error) of course the spacer has to be thin. I had this problem when I used my 60mm with a different lens hood than the gigantic original one. I used UV filter by B&W which was thin enough not to jam the focusing movement when focusing at infinity or longer distances.

The solution is using a threaded spacing ring that just puts a space between a too thick filter mount or lens hood. I have been successfully doing this with an extra thin B&W filter on a 60mm macro which displayed a focus error when used on infinite (or thereabouts). This is an example of a spacing ring which has the same thread back/front and thin mount in between (you need to find the right thickness)

looks like one but not to worry too much, aside from a little understandable OCD " knee jerking reaction” to knowing that you have one, in practice you would never really notice it and easily retouch it if you did

There are of course many threads where you can actually look at examples. I have the Samyang (which comes even under many more brands that the ones indicated above). I own a Samyang 8mm and a 12. I have also owned the 10-24mm (which I replaced with the 12mm because I only used it at the widest) The differences between lenses of this nature in terms of perspective and quality are largely academic. Their use is limited and mostly return special images which rapidly can become boring unless you chose to use this lens VERY carefully which means that you won’t use it much.

I had one too but then I bought myself adapter which includes an extensible tube which allows me to focus or to use it as a macro tu (or both). Good luck!

K&F should have the flange , they are cheap and very well made, note that you can put yourself a ring to work as a flange in your adapter, just unscrew the retaining screws outside on the adapter barrel (generally they are there) the front ring comes off , under there you place a thin black ring made of any material that can press upon the pin, and there you go.

you must have a different version that the ones that I have or have had. Anyway, this is a predicament that is not uncommon with some Pentax M42x1 lenses too. At the back of the les there is a pin which to be depressed. Some adapters do have a flange ring inside which acts upon this and allows the aperture to work. If you adapter doesn’t have it you may try to take it apart and put one in but most adapters are SO cheap that I would try to get another one with that ring inside.