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milandro

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milandro last won the day on May 2

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  1. After many years of use and no serious malfunction. I have had the shutter jammed, locked in its upright position while shooting in continuous mode and fast shutter speed. Maybe my aging camera wasn’t used to this 👹, after all it is used mostly in single shot, but it locked down ofter 150 shots. The message to restart camera with on off button appeared a few times and then even that one wasn’t working. So I enjoyed the rest of the car race and looked at the camera today. The camera was still turning on (but not off) after replacing the battery. It would shoot twice but then the shutter would be jam shut in the upright position. It was not a button problem, it was a shutter jam. So I concluded that this required some old fashioned “ persuasion”. I slapped the camera with my flat hand on the bottom a couple of times, prior to that I had put the shutter on T. Fortunately the shutter was able to put itself in place and then the T shutter position was now operational. I am not sure that everything is working fine but preliminary tests show the camera working. I hope the problem won’t come back . Maybe this will be of some use for fellow X-T1 (or other cameras, I am afraid that this may be more common than most people may think.
  2. It al depends from the thickness of the system. I don’t see why not. I have an X-T1 and I am still using it. I am no longer using the 60mm macro.
  3. yes, a spacer, not an adapter, there are special spacers, this serves the purpose to allow focusing without impeding the movement of the lens (which is causing the error) of course the spacer has to be thin. I had this problem when I used my 60mm with a different lens hood than the gigantic original one. I used UV filter by B&W which was thin enough not to jam the focusing movement when focusing at infinity or longer distances.
  4. The solution is using a threaded spacing ring that just puts a space between a too thick filter mount or lens hood. I have been successfully doing this with an extra thin B&W filter on a 60mm macro which displayed a focus error when used on infinite (or thereabouts). This is an example of a spacing ring which has the same thread back/front and thin mount in between (you need to find the right thickness)
  5. looks like one but not to worry too much, aside from a little understandable OCD " knee jerking reaction” to knowing that you have one, in practice you would never really notice it and easily retouch it if you did
  6. There are of course many threads where you can actually look at examples. I have the Samyang (which comes even under many more brands that the ones indicated above). I own a Samyang 8mm and a 12. I have also owned the 10-24mm (which I replaced with the 12mm because I only used it at the widest) The differences between lenses of this nature in terms of perspective and quality are largely academic. Their use is limited and mostly return special images which rapidly can become boring unless you chose to use this lens VERY carefully which means that you won’t use it much.
  7. I had one too but then I bought myself adapter which includes an extensible tube which allows me to focus or to use it as a macro tu (or both). Good luck!
  8. K&F should have the flange , they are cheap and very well made, note that you can put yourself a ring to work as a flange in your adapter, just unscrew the retaining screws outside on the adapter barrel (generally they are there) the front ring comes off , under there you place a thin black ring made of any material that can press upon the pin, and there you go.
  9. you must have a different version that the ones that I have or have had. Anyway, this is a predicament that is not uncommon with some Pentax M42x1 lenses too. At the back of the les there is a pin which to be depressed. Some adapters do have a flange ring inside which acts upon this and allows the aperture to work. If you adapter doesn’t have it you may try to take it apart and put one in but most adapters are SO cheap that I would try to get another one with that ring inside.
  10. what do you define with the term “ defined”, you may want to say “ confined” ( forse Lei vuol dire “ Limitato " in Italiano?) I don’t feel confined at all, but obviously you won’t be as quick as with autofocus. I don’t use the split image but simply use the focus assist (which, by now, you realize it enlarges the area indicated by the rectangle) . I have a number of non autofocus lenses which can be used only this way and Ive shot lots of pictures this way and shooting none of them made me feel any more confined ghan I have ever felt with any manual focus lens. You do need excellent eyesight to be able to focus ( you are looking at a high resolution screen, but still it is a screen). If you are using that king of sensitivity 3200 ISO you will have lots of noise on the screen and unless you really need to that would confuse your focussing.
  11. The 12mm and 50-230mm are indeed great recommendations. I have both and I love them. The 50-230 has to be the best bang for the buck of any Fuji lens out there. Granted I don’t take a lot of long focal photography but given its quality for the absurdly low price that you can buy one of these for (often together with cameras and 18-55) is very good value for money.
  12. I don’t think that you could describe the 16-55 as a “ kit lens” since it is a very expensive piece of kit and certainly belongs to the more expensive series of the Fuji range. It’s a huge lens which I had briefly and didn’t really like for its size. It offers minimal advantages over the 18-55 in terms of maximum aperture ( my opinion is that maximum aperture had a meaning in the years before autofocus to facilitate focussing and in the portrait lenses to isolate the subject but in an autofocus zoom this is of little consequence because there aren’t many instances when you are going to shoot pictures at maximum aperture ) and wider focal length range and of course it comes with WR, which may or may not be of importance. I have gone back to owning the 18-55 and have no complaints. I own a XT-1 and will only replace it when it dies ( I am not looking forward to this) because it gives me everything I need. But if your question is if I would buy, now, as a first time fuji buyer, an older camera? No I wouldn’t. Despite the fact that I don’t need 24Mp or any other of the characteristics, I would buy a more advanced model and live with it until this will die. Whether this more advanced model is the X-T2 or something else is a problem that I don’t have and will only face, if and when, my XT-1 ceases to operate.
  13. well, have you read what I wrote? I think that you didn’t, so let me extract that things pertaining to your point. “...The aperture , normally, has to be, for a number of reasons, placed somewhere in the “ middle” ( take this word with a grain of salt since was used for simplicity) of the lens. Apertures in that position serve the purpose to, yes, reduce the amount of light and increase the apparent depth of field, but also help correcting aberrations and generally improve the lens performance. So, Is there really a function that an aperture iris put between the camera and the lens can perform? Not really! If you are looking to do the same thing with these adapters that you can do by turning on a normal lens the aperture, no, you will be bitterly disappointed. These adapters are very quickly inducing vignetting in your lens though you are using a full frame lens on a APS-C sensor (so some of it will fall outside the image circle). But if you are looking at the occasional use of an EF lens that you are using completely open anyway, or a lens like the Petzval (which does have its aperture but where you can add this second aperture) this can be leading to some interesting (see my other thread) results.   http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/747-petzval-85mm-f22-in-fujifilm-mount-anyone/page-3..."
  14. one of the best lens ever made in absolute terms and relative ones.
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