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Jürgen Heger

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Jürgen Heger last won the day on November 9 2020

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  1. I am pretty sure this is not possible. Normally the T4 can process only its own RAWs. But probably it is possible to patch the header of a RAW file of a Fuji camera with the same sensor generation i.e. X100V or X-Pro3 to pretend it is a T4 RAW. All these cameras have identical pixel count and, more important, the X-Trans color pattern. Sony and Nikon files have the Bayer color pattern. The processing is very different. I am sure the T4 does not have the algorithms implemented to process the Bayer files.
  2. The coming 70-300mm may be the reason for the current discounts on the 55-200 mm. However, short before the 70-300 mm will be available many 55-200 mm users probably will sell their 55-200 mm. So you may be able to buy it used at a very good price.
  3. I do not expect the 10-24 I to stay in production. So you may get a clearance sales now but likely not in the future. However, I do not have any information first hand 😊.
  4. Focal length is always very subjective and it depends on your style of photography. If you absolutely prefer 35 mm over 23 mm then, I think, you have some choices: 1. Go closer, according to Robert Capa: If your photographs aren't good enough, you're not close enough. If you are taking pictures of people, this may not be easy and you may feel embarrassed. 2. Crop your pictures to 35 mm equivalent. You will loose some resolution but for most cases there will be still enough. You can even adjust the framing. 3. You can add the TCL-X100, which will provide a view angle of an 32 mm lens. However, the TCL is a big lens which somehow contradicts the whole idea of the X100. I hope this gives some ideas.
  5. To the best of my knowledge the only smart adapters with AF are for Canon EF mount lenses. I know about Fringer, Streelsring, Commlite, and Viltrox.
  6. Just two remarks from me: 1. I don't think you will get much, if anything, for a broken T2 2. You need to give some information about your shooging style. Would you benefit from the improved AF-C of the the T3? Are you really an action photographer? Would you benefit from the IBIS that the T4 will likely have? Are you using lenses that do not have OIS and do you do a lot of available light photography? Then may be a used H1 would be an alternative? Would you benefit from the global shutter that the T4 will possibly have? This will allow noiseless electronic shutter (ES) for moving objects, may be classical concerts or wedding ceremonies. Also higher frame rates will be possible. So if the 11 fps of the T2 with mechanical shutter are not enough and if you can't use the ES of the T2 because of the rolling shutter effect then pay the repair and wait for the T4. Same if you are a videographer. The T4 will likely bring big improvements on tne video side.
  7. Turn the aperture ring of the lens to the red A position and set the shutter dial to the required shutter speed. The camera will set the aperture automatically. Oops, did not read until the end of your post. You already found the solution yourself.
  8. Lens usage is very subjective. So every photographer has his own favourite lens. My personel favourite is the 23 mm f/1.4. 23 mm give the same angle of view as 35 mm on full frame which is considered one of the best for documentary photography next to 50 mm VF, 33/35 mm APS-C. The f/1.4 gives additional low light capability that the 18-55 does not have. So depending if you like to go close to the people or if you prefer some distance the 35 mm f/1.4 might be a good choice as well. However, the 35 mm gives a slower AF on the T1. I do prefer the 23 mm because in rooms the larger angle of view makes it a litte bit easier for me. In case you expect a lot of rain or dust the f/2.0 versions may be good alternitives. They provide weather resistance at the cost of one step low light capability. The 16 mm f/1.4 brings the same low light capability as the 23/1.4 and the 35/1.4 but also extends the angle of view compared to the 18-55 and additionally has a shorter focus distance and weather resistance. So it brings four new features that the 18-55 does not have. However, many think that 16 mm is a little bit wide for street photography. But again, it is all subjective and depend on your style of photography.
  9. Of course is it ok to say sorry ... if you have a reason. See PM for more details.
  10. Patrik, thank you for your hard work even if the E3 obviously will not be for me as it will have no tilt screen. So I can stick with my E2s and T2 and save some money. By the way, you should follow rule number six a bit more.
  11. Did it help your students 1. to improve their photographic eye? 2. to understand that equipment is much less important than most believe? 3. other Edit: Remove unwanted emoticon
  12. Milandro, don't undermine our econony system with wrong facts. It is a well known fact derived from Moore's law that the linear resolution of a given camera decreases by about 30% per 18 months (pixelcount goes down by 50%). AF speed drops in a similar way. So definitely, you cannot shoot with an older camera in the same way you did one or two years ago. You simply have to buy the newest equipment as soon as it is released. You can improve your image quality significantly by placing preorders... Or do I misinterpret Moore's law?
  13. Milandro, you are absolutely right. I forgot to mention that the adapters with aperture ring on the adapter, like my Novoflex or the Quenox also work with Nikon G lenses. Do you know who makes the adapter with electrical aperture? I understand that they still havo no auto focus.
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