Jump to content

Jürgen Heger

Members
  • Content Count

    142
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Jürgen Heger last won the day on March 15 2017

Jürgen Heger had the most liked content!

About Jürgen Heger

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany

Recent Profile Visitors

421 profile views
  1. To the best of my knowledge the only smart adapters with AF are for Canon EF mount lenses. I know about Fringer, Streelsring, Commlite, and Viltrox.
  2. Just two remarks from me: 1. I don't think you will get much, if anything, for a broken T2 2. You need to give some information about your shooging style. Would you benefit from the improved AF-C of the the T3? Are you really an action photographer? Would you benefit from the IBIS that the T4 will likely have? Are you using lenses that do not have OIS and do you do a lot of available light photography? Then may be a used H1 would be an alternative? Would you benefit from the global shutter that the T4 will possibly have? This will allow noiseless electronic shutter (ES) for moving objects, may be classical concerts or wedding ceremonies. Also higher frame rates will be possible. So if the 11 fps of the T2 with mechanical shutter are not enough and if you can't use the ES of the T2 because of the rolling shutter effect then pay the repair and wait for the T4. Same if you are a videographer. The T4 will likely bring big improvements on tne video side.
  3. Turn the aperture ring of the lens to the red A position and set the shutter dial to the required shutter speed. The camera will set the aperture automatically. Oops, did not read until the end of your post. You already found the solution yourself.
  4. Lens usage is very subjective. So every photographer has his own favourite lens. My personel favourite is the 23 mm f/1.4. 23 mm give the same angle of view as 35 mm on full frame which is considered one of the best for documentary photography next to 50 mm VF, 33/35 mm APS-C. The f/1.4 gives additional low light capability that the 18-55 does not have. So depending if you like to go close to the people or if you prefer some distance the 35 mm f/1.4 might be a good choice as well. However, the 35 mm gives a slower AF on the T1. I do prefer the 23 mm because in rooms the larger angle of view makes it a litte bit easier for me. In case you expect a lot of rain or dust the f/2.0 versions may be good alternitives. They provide weather resistance at the cost of one step low light capability. The 16 mm f/1.4 brings the same low light capability as the 23/1.4 and the 35/1.4 but also extends the angle of view compared to the 18-55 and additionally has a shorter focus distance and weather resistance. So it brings four new features that the 18-55 does not have. However, many think that 16 mm is a little bit wide for street photography. But again, it is all subjective and depend on your style of photography.
  5. Of course is it ok to say sorry ... if you have a reason. See PM for more details.
  6. Patrik, thank you for your hard work even if the E3 obviously will not be for me as it will have no tilt screen. So I can stick with my E2s and T2 and save some money. By the way, you should follow rule number six a bit more.
  7. Did it help your students 1. to improve their photographic eye? 2. to understand that equipment is much less important than most believe? 3. other Edit: Remove unwanted emoticon
  8. Milandro, don't undermine our econony system with wrong facts. It is a well known fact derived from Moore's law that the linear resolution of a given camera decreases by about 30% per 18 months (pixelcount goes down by 50%). AF speed drops in a similar way. So definitely, you cannot shoot with an older camera in the same way you did one or two years ago. You simply have to buy the newest equipment as soon as it is released. You can improve your image quality significantly by placing preorders... Or do I misinterpret Moore's law?
  9. Milandro, you are absolutely right. I forgot to mention that the adapters with aperture ring on the adapter, like my Novoflex or the Quenox also work with Nikon G lenses. Do you know who makes the adapter with electrical aperture? I understand that they still havo no auto focus.
  10. To the best of my knowledge there are no adapters that allow any electrical communication between camera and lens. This means that focus is only possible in manual mode and the aperture can not be controlled by the camera. So when you set the aperture ring on the lens let's say to 8 the apertur actually will close to 8. On a Nikon camera the aperture would stay full open to give you a bright view finder until you press the shutter button. Then the camera would close the aperture, take the picture, and open the aperture. The simplest adapters can not be used with Nikon G lenses as these do not have an aperture ring but need the camera to control the aperture. (Remember, no electrical communication.) However, even some very cheap adapters like the Quenox do have an aperture ring on the adapter. On my Novoflex adapter, not the cheapest adapter, I can preset the aperture on the lens. If I turn the aperture ring on the adapter to one side the aperture is full open. If I turn it to the other side it closes to the preset value. I guess other adapters work the same way. On the Novoflex the ring does not have any marks and no clicks. The Metabones adapter has marks labeled 1, 2, 3.. Normal adapters will not change the focal lens. You have to consider the crop of the APS-C sensor versus full frame. The 85 mm Zeiss will not give the typical portrait field of view but more of a mid range tele. On APS-C a 56.67 mm lens would be the portrait lens. A 85 mm lens gives the field of view like a 135 mm lens on full frame. (127.5 mm to be more precise.) There are adapters which change the focal lens like the Metabones Speedbooster. It multiplies the focal lens with 0.71. Thus a 85 mm lens will behave like a 60mm lens on an APS-C camera which is very close to the field of view on a full frame. Additionally the aperure will be multiplied with the same factor. So it gives you about one stop more open. Yes, it becomes brighter! The speedbooster is much more expensive than adapters that do not change focal lens. Quenox is another speed booster with 0.72 reduction. Quenox is much cheaper but seems to be not as good as the Metabones but still good according to the internet. I believe there are other Chinese made ones. My Novoflex works like it should and I have never read any complaints about Novoflex adapters. However, there are some complaints about some cheaper adapters that they were too tight or too lose and that people had to return them once or twice until they got one that was ok. I have a Quenox macro extension ring, in fact they come as a pair with 10 and 16 mm. They work fine but have a little slackness which allows to twist the adapter against the camera and the lens against the adapter a little bit. This sometimes interrupts the electrical communication. Then I have to twist the lens a bit and it works. The slackness has no effect on the image quality. Note, this is a Fuji X camera to Fuji X lens adapter. So it is easy to provide electrical comunication as it does not need any translation between Fuji speak on one side and Nikon speak on the other side. I hope this helps a bit. Edit: Some typos corrected and some wordings are now hopefuly better to understand
  11. Thanks to dfaye for the link. My personal summary from the link is that the camera is part of the weather sealing. Whan you remove the camera from the lens you break the sealing and dust and worse may come into the lens. Before reading this I was not aware of it.
  12. A prime lens is always a specialist that can do one thing very well and others not so well or even not at all. A zoom lens is more a jack of all trades but master of none. Unless you have a precise idea of your shooting style I would recommend the 18-55/2.8-4.0, may be second hand. If you really know what suits you best together with the Pro 2 you can trade it for the prime with your preferred focal lens.
  13. Wrong forum or wrong language by mistake?☺
  14. @smorton Buy the D750! There is such a strong common understanding that full frame is better just because it is full frame that no one can really escape. If you would already own a full frame and knew all the advantages and disadvantages than you would be able to value the advantages and disadvantages of the Fujis correctly. But if you have no first hand experience with full frame there will always be a nagging feeling that the Fuji was a wrong decision. On Dpreview.com you can get an idea how the T2 image quality compares to the D750. Even if some say that they do not do justice to the Fujis because the images are processed with Light Room which is known to be not the best processor for X-Trans.
×
×
  • Create New...