Vidalgo

You need serial number, not lens name. It's engraved on lens body at bottom side close to bayonet, or printed on attached sticker:

On 1st image red channel is clipped a bit, as comparing to 2nd. And overall exposure shifted to right side. May be worth to repeat test with negative exposure correction for first lens.

An another camera maker was forced to create a new mechanical shutter with reduced shock for its new camera model with IBIS. Curiously, that new camera is targeted to low segment of system cameras. I mean, the implementing of IBIS is not based only on restrictions of bayonet design or associated electronics, but can need some other important changes, and they are partially invisible for end user.

Nice technique. I like it. Interesting, the first photo has a clearly visible perspective.

I think it's a result of automatic vignette correction according to the lens profile embedded. Try shot pair RAW+JPEG and then we shall see.

Don't worry: we shall see a camera with the term "X" from an other manufacturer. Because the single-letter term cannot be registered as trademark or copyright!

That's good. I'm very interested in E3. I have E2S and found it more suitable for my needs than my T1, mainly due to the ergonomic (nose factor). What I like in E2S - smaller size, threaded shutter button, good auto mode with quick access via dedicated button (please, Fuji, let us RAWs in auto), also panorama mode works better. Probably it's related to my copies of both cameras, but I get sometimes a little smeared corners from T1, and almost perfect picture from E2S with the same lens.

Probably, PRE-AF is switched to ON. Check autofocus settings.

I do. Both ends, and all in the middle of my 10-24. Really great range for walking through urban jungles.

If shot was taken in RAW only, "zooming" in view mode is limited to relatively small resolution of JPEG-picture which is embedded into RAW. For full "zooming" need to shot in RAW+JPEG or JPEG modes.

Agree. That phrase is a kind of spam. It's should be wiped off with help of an automated script.

AF+MF on : autofocus works as usual, but then (after AF confirmation) user can rotate focus ring to shift focus point closer or further, for his taste

Please, don't remove 16:9 option. It's great for landscape works, it's great for other scenes when main subject is wide but not tall, and it's great for viewing on TV screens and most of PC monitors.

Battery has built-in temperature sensor which is used for safety reasons and for optimizing of charging cycle. Chargers with 2 contacts cannot use that sensor, so they are more risky. That's why they are so cheap.

Probably stupid reason, but without memory card this camera cannot start video recording mode (while single photo shot is still possible).

I would pick Fuji because they are supplying a lot of firmware updates. Since born, 35/1.4 had half-dozen of updates. The lens becomes better and better. While Zeiss had 1 update only. I can't believe their lenses were so perfect from born.

Probably, the most bizarre pointer to a shop's sale.

Something wrong.

Fever.

The clown.

X-E2S don't have internal memory as well. Means: no internal flash storage. But internal memory buffer allows take a picture at full resolution and view it on the screen, even possible enlarge it to see fine details. That's enough for camera check at a moment of purchasing.

better IS... Devil hidden in details. Chances to get a shake blur they are more related to steadiness of hands and leverage moment from the lens (i.e. weight and physical length) rather than effectiveness of IS. The equation looks simple, but worth to mention that steadiness of hands has non-linear behavior. Hence, adding, say, 200gr of weight not always can be compensated with, say, 1 extra stop of IS. That's easy to check. Take a 2 good doses of shots, outdoor at max focal: 1) pointed horizontally, along the street 2) pointed up, to the top of closest building On both cases, try to keep camera at a same manner. If second dose give you a noticeable smaller number of blurs, that's means you need a lens with much lower weight, or at least with more effective IS. Assuming you will not rush to the bodybuilding training just because to keep the lens better.

Instead of firmware update, just try to clean contacts on both lens and camera bayonet. Use cotton swab wetted with alcohol (ethanol, propanol), lab-grade if possible. Don't do abrasive wiping with sandpaper etc. Gold-plated contacts can look clean but has thin oil-like layer which is just condensed from air, especially in urban areas. Or even oxidation film.

Perhaps, my short experience with E2S will be useful. I own X-T1 for 2.5 years and 3 month ago I got X-E2S. I'm really impressed from the last one. That's camera from the same league, just equipped with less functions. Screen, controls, etc. I didn't compare both side-by-side, because my E2S was planned as a second/spare body. Heh, now I'm thinking keep it as a my primary camera... until E3 will popping... My nose is voted for rangefinder style also. Build quality is quite OK, but I don't know how measure it. Not seen anything noticeable. All works as should. May be I'm lucky. I added to E2S soft release button and good grip with L-plate, for personal reasons. Stockstrap is terrible, yeah. Same as from T1 package. I use cheap soft straps from ebay. Have been used both cameras at my last trip, to Vienna, at September. E2s with 18-55 all time, while T1 was with wide or tele or fast lens depending of situation. Photos from E2S were really good. No worse in any aspect from those I get from T1 + the same 18-55 lens. Low misses count. I'm not sure, but seems shots from E2S are asking for less postprocessing efforts, comparing to shots taken with T1 (I prefer to shot in RAW). A kind of intuitive feeling based on own initial statistics.

Just don't let too much falling raindrops on 18-55 and it will be ok.