milandro

The baseball cap can be acquired from this company

well besides being the most recognizable landmark in Japan Fuji is many things unrelated to the Photographic company.

could this help you? http://ultralightphotography.net/gear/fuji-cameras/everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-np-w126-batteries/ “..If you want the ultimate performance or you do a lot of 4K video recording or continuous shooting, NP-W126S is clearly the winner. That said, some of the third party batteries are very close to the Fujifilm’s original in performance, while they cost only a fraction of the price..."

OP wants to do the opposite, he wants to make a Manfrotto have an Arca slide.

I don’t but here there is a comprehensive review of one. https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/60425752 Fun though it is, it will give much the same look to many pictures after a very short while. I am curious why you would want a circular fisheye? I have a rectilinear fisheye which is fun , but has relatively few applications. A circular one, would have, for me, even less.

as said before banding is NOT an issue with your camera it is viewing issue either/ or with the viewing hardware or even with the software that you use to visualize your image.

No, banding is only a monitor or viewing device or viewing software issue, not a sensor issue. In my link you find several tutorials More on this

OP is talking of yet something else, it is called color banding. We’ve spoken more often about it.

banding will happen also with a mechanical shutter https://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/836-how-can-you-avoid-banding-using-the-mechanical-shutter-under-fluorescent-lights/

could this be the answer?

Don’t forget the newest super ultra wide 8mm Laowa 9mm f2.8 https://www.fujirumors.com/venus-optics-laowa-9mm-f-2-8-lens-fujifilm-announced/

well, video or not video, I have owned both and sold the 10-24 because I used it 90% on 10mm and the quality different is such that you don’t se any difference in practical use.

I didn’t infer this were condensation droplets. If OP were to, for example, disconnect the camera and the lens for changing a lens or just ease the de-fogging process, the layer of moisture would trap a spec of dust which will then be drying (and won’t come off with a a blow of an air bellows) onto the sensor adhering to it. This is what I suggest it MIGHT have happened.

A telephoto lens ( although I think you mean a longer focal length lens) without extended macro facility won’t get you any close( r ) up than shorter focal length lens, but would place you further away while from the subject while keeping more or less the dimension of a shorter focal lens. A close-up lens ( varying from a close-up simple lens to one with a system of lenses) will bring the shortest focal distance to such level that you will have a very close-up image, but you will be very close to the subject too. A longer focal objective lens + a close up lens will allow a higher magnification while staying further away.

Looking at the scene I think that another reason why you may have had sensor problems is the climate that you are operating your camera in. Tropical or subtropical climate is very bad for sensors when you go in an out of air conditioned areas. It is impossible to avoid that a layer of condensation forms on all glass surfaces, which includes the sensor. Of course, this is the moment in which you may be prone to cause particles to stick to the sensor if you don’t wait for the condensation to disappear. I have had these conditions in Cuba and the Dominican Republic so I am assuming that you might have encountered similar situations. This are probably so big particles to be visible with the naked eye . I have bought a magnifier lens with a ring of leds to inspect the sensor after having had several bad experiences. Of course you can first start by blowing clean air (don’t use a spray canister by all means they often contain droplets which will soil the sensor) although most of the times this is useless. After that you go to a wet clear or a gel clean. When cleaning the sensor remember than NOT all products are equally recommended for Fuji sensors. Rather than do it yourself, have the shop do this for you. The potential for causing havoc is very high if you don’t know what you are doing. Fortunately my shop does this for free as a complimentary service

pretty accurate way of showing that facts and science cannot counteract urban legends or “ perception” . As we have seen in politics, enumerating facts cannot seem to change the mind of at least a percentage of the general public who, no matter what and against all proof will stick to a political savior of their choice. Same thing is for the pixel myth. There is no way to make people understand that if you buy a camera with higher pixel count that that is going to slow down your computer and require an upgrade which would be completely unnecessary for a great portion of the public. I have yet to understand why people get so hung up buying the latest model when they shoot the same things that they shot (poorly at times) with their previous model, other than displaying their capability to do so. Their motto is like in the ad “ not because I have to but because I can” ....

well the Manfrotto and the Arca-like quick releases are very different so, you will need to attach a manfrotto plate under your bracket if you want to use it on a Manfrotto head. You could, alternatively, add ( always by using a manfrotto plate, that you cannot escape) an arca slide receive. There are many in many different forms I have used a few myself but whatever your do you still need a Manfrotto plate.

All rubber eyecups are (and have always been I have a number of vintage ones which are just slightly better), its the nature of the beast. Just clean it or live with it. Some aftermarket adaptation could be slightly better too, but aside being an annoyance to my obsessive compulsive cleaning it is something that one can live with

it is called banding or flickering and its effects are very well know especially to those who shoot video. Light sources which produce this effect are not necessarily limited only to fluorescent and the same can be observed with LED (most common also on stage) and many more light sources.

Interesting lens. It would remain to be seen how good the sharpness in the corners will turn out to be. Perhaps the 12º difference in angle with my 12mm Samyang would call for a wider lens but I am on the fence for this.

aside any old lens (with and adapter), among the new ones do consider the Samyang 135 f2 https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1110691-REG/samyang_sy135m_fx_135mm_f_2_lens_for.html

well try without a filter and see what happens seems to be the best strategy. Fuji lenses don’t take well to be limited by some filters. If THAT turns out to be the reason then you MAY need to buy (or have it made) a spacer ring. Good Luck.

as shown in the video above “ IS Mode"