milandro

I don’t think that we are going that direction because it would be totally pointless. But this is a lost cause I understand that. The majority of the people here (AND ELSEWHERE) never print anything and if they do they don’t go anywhere near the limits of 16Mp let alone 24Mp. But of course bigger is better and the old joke made in the spinal tap applies (it goes to 11...) , it’s not the size of the file is what you do with it!

and need a new computer to process them while not doing anything more than looking them on the screen while our eyes are getting worse. There is a direct relationship between pocket depths and eyes getting worse the deeper the first the worst the second

manual focus of fuji lenses happens by wire, if you take a long time to do that it might use more battery but pardon me if I say that asking if manual focus does take more battery could only be asked with “ depends"

Demand more!

what do you mean it is not under warranty? How old is this camera? even if you bought it in the grey circuit you have 12 months international guarantee. This should apply even if you are not the original owner. Anyway if for whatever reason it is not under guarantee you can still bring it to a repair center and ask to evaluate the cost. It is a fluke and by no means the norm that’s why there are guarantees and repair centers, things like this happen. Good luck.

then it might be a camera problem. I don’t think that all X-T2 have this problem and probably you’d be better served by sending the camera to a complete service which should be carried out under warranty. There is no way to know whether this is a hardware or software problem unless one runs some diagnostics program that is not available to common mortals. Additionally the number of variables ( and their interaction) is simply too great. If this isn’t a straightforward fault (and it doesn’t appear to be) it might be the result of two (or more) completely unrelated software-software, software-hardware, hardware-hardware, faults .

there is always the possibility of a card issue since they are not all the same, the same goes for the batteries and if all of this is not the issue there might be something wrong with he camera and you need to have it serviced (they will probably ask you about battery and cards). Good luck.

This is what people say but then why would also people in non EU countries complain of the same. I have still to find black on white the text of the law. Incidentally, this is a software limitation and as such could be hacked.

Well than me and some of my friends (is yours coming off Johan?) are definitely doing something or have been provided a special camera. I bought mine at Kamera Express Amsterdam so did other of my friends.

apparently the limit is imposed by software because of a legal definition of a video camera as opposed to a photo-camera that can also take moving pictures. Not only a Fuji problem. Not only, it is nota EU law (as some on line say) it is across borders.

all Samyang lenses have a cinema version , if I am not mistaken those have more blades and continuous stopless capability to be se.t.

yes, I am STILL either very lucky or do something (don’t know what it might possibly be) that others don’t , still the original skin and still no sign of skin detachment , just very slight wear but after almost 4 years I suppose that is to be expected. 2 other friends in the NL have cameras as old as mine bought in the same shop and no complaints either. Must be a Dutch thing!

which version have you got I or II? I think that only II got an firmware update

good I was going to tell you but looking up things is always better

the update is a lens update that came Oct 5 2017 and is not body dependent and is described as: Fix for wrong focal length display and shaking in peripheral part of images" http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/lens/xf10-24mm/index.html I use and will use until it fails the X-T1 . Have used X-E1, X-E2, X-M1 and X-T1.

still the uneven sharpness is a mystery if corners are not sharp they should all be unsharp the same way, all 4 of them ( if the camera is held orthogonally to the subject). By the way recently there was an update with the 10-24 software. When using this lens in certain position the entire sides (extreme border of the frame ) were not sharp at time (holding the camera vertical or even upside down). This, I thought, was a problem with the OIS

sensor misalignment has certainly showed up occasionally ( I remember discussing this with someone who had also unexplainable uneven sharpness on one corner only and had it repaired). The thing is also that is almost never detected unless one makes a series of very critical observations as you attempted to do.

the problem is that on other camera we can still mount it to a film camera and shoot at picture to see the lens production as is. On Fuji this is impossible, all you have are files which are altered digitally by the camera. All matter of parameters come out off camera altered and not as the physical optics have produced.

still doesn’t explain why only one corner of your picture is blurred unless the wall has a dent in there it should be perfectly in line with all the other surface and at the very least with the bottom right ( since the bricks aren’t askew)

still it doesn’t explain why the lower left corner is noticeably blurred

Only Zeiss and with worse results than Fuji, no other brand has shown concrete plans to do any autofocus lens for Fuji. By the way Fuji already corrects for corner distortion and those results that you and others are showing are disappointing indeed . One should wonder whether the sensor is properly positioned. I hope for you that that is not the case.

I forget it regularly and never bother too much , at the moment I have more manual lenses than anything else... so this happens very often. I don’t care about it as it , as said before, adds only efx data.

I can see what you are saying on your files (and also on Mike G’s brik wall but his show this only on the left side of the image, especially of the bottom left portion). If one is standing in front of a brick wall the corners of the image shouldn’t be affected as much and certainly not unevenly. I have owned both these lenses but no longer have them so I cannot carry out the test myself but I have done plenty of these test in the beginning (lots of brick walls around here) and don’t recall having seen this kind of results.

hods on long lenses are not as useful as they are on short lenses but when light in hitting the first lens the loss of contrast and resolution is major ( mot so much flare) but as for everything .... whatever floats your boat.

cropping encourages sloppiness , one of the Magnum rules of the olden days was that cropping was highly discouraged ( which is the origin of showing the black frame around the negative to show the fact that you haven’t cropped and that the image was composed in camera) but even with 12Mp you can produce images that can be printed extremely lare. Again, sometimes I see people whose accomplishments in the pictures they take have take absolutely no advantage for having bought the latest camera ( and the most expensive lenses ) that they could buy. It is like buying a Lamborghini to commute in heavy traffic to go to work, pointless, beside letting the world know that you have a Lambo of course.