milandro

This seems to be the most used handbook https://www.bol.com/nl/p/the-fujifilm-x-t20/9200000075542551/ I understand that the author is a member here http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/user/6-flysurfer/

you can download it on PDF and scroll id down on your screen. The advantage of the PDF is that it is searchable. http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t2/ on this page, for example you can search the term focus assist button

yes, you probably need to use the “ shoot without lens” function. Manual lenses and or adapters without electrical contacts are not detected by the camera. Which brings me to another point. I guess the M adapter that you are using is not the Fuji original adapter (or the lens is not one with electrical contacts) and has no electrical contacts? Because otherwise the switching on of this function should be automatic and should also include focal length setting and image corrections. ( although it is possible to tell the camera which focal you are using this information will only affect the EFX data but no correction will be made if you are not using an adapter and a lens with electric contacts). Find this and more things you need to know in the manual. http://www.fujifilm.com/products/digital_cameras/accessories/lens/mount/fujifilm_m_mount_adapter/

with manual focus lenses just press on the focus assist button with automatic focus lenses if focus check is enabled as soon as you focus in manual (with the M on the body) this feature is automatic. all these features are not especially hidden and all described in the manual. I am not reproaching but really the manual is something that you should read and practice while reading at least once this is an issue similar to the one you had with the split image square showing all of a sudden and really it belongs to the same category.

interesting perspective

cheers, if you wish, but really if you like the pictures this way (let’s call it a creative choice ) and it doesn’t matter to you, it certainly doesn’t concern me. There are many ways to skin a cat and this is obviously yours

Honestly Merlin, these outlines are clearly PP created. Other than that, if you like them... no problem

Merlin , I don’t know if this is intentional, but I’ve seen this in a few of your B&W already. When you process things this way there is the creation of artifacts , clearly shown in this picture above as white outline surrounding the black image. This shows in a particular in the areas where the white flowers and the black branches mix forming a very visible pattern.

double posts on the rampage again! Perhaps something is askew?

Fuji has no shutter counter accessible to the public ( if there is one it maybe only accessible to the service department) the counter can be reset so there is no way to know how many shots it has taken, but since the camera is relatively new it is unlikely that it was used above and beyond what the shutter can take. I think the price is actually very good. Of course the XE3 is in the same range, but it is a different camera. Your choice.

As long as you are in automatic exposure mode I don’t think that it is possible to have the EVF not compensating even if the preview effect is set on off ( I think that Fuji might have lost this in translation and might have meant something that wasn’t referring to exposing but only film simulation NOT about the exposure ) . It will work only in manual. Then you see the screen noticeably getting lighter and darker with a polarizer, but not in automatic. The rationale might have been that in automatic most would want to see how the camera exposes automatically and possibly make corrections with +/- exposure which is what I and most people do. You are describing an automatic exposure as it happens on a DSLR ( while observing through the prism ) but I think that the mirrorless philosophy is different. Most want to see what you get in terms of real, actual, automatic, exposure in real time, not the progressive darkening of a double( ?) polarizer. So if you put a dark filter, the camera compensates in real time always showing what IT believes to be the correct exposure for that ISO, Aperture, Shutter + possible filters combination. Anyway all this is immaterial. It is what it its. From Dan Bailey tricks and tips ( he appears to agree with the way I see this thing happening, from now on these are his words) http://danbaileyphoto.com/fuji_tips_and_tricks.pdf 4. Preview Picture Mode This very useful setting showed up in a firmware update after the X-T1 had been out for awhile. Found in the Screen Setup Menu, Preview Picture Effect has two options, ON or OFF. The default setting is ON, which allows you to see the scene in your viewfinder with your currently selected film simulation applied. OFF shows you your scene without the effect of the film sim. This gives you a much more accurate view of the world in front of your camera. With the film sim applied, you don’t always expereince how good the EVF actually is. Looking through the electronic viewfinder with Preview Picture Effect OFF is almost like looking through an optical viewfinder. This option is extremely useful for situations when you want the most realisim in your viewfinder, i.e., when photographing night skies or shooting in RAW. Check out this use- ful setting; it will give you new appreciation for the awesome technology built into these cameras. 5. Preview EXP/WB in manual mode This preview option, found in the Screen Setup menu, lets you preview exposure and white balance changes in your viewfinder. This mode is ON by default, and I like to keep it that way. One of the huge advantages of mirrorless cameras is that you’re able to view real time changes to your exposure in the LCD and EVF, because you’re drawing the view directly from the sensor. This means what you see on the LCD is EXACTLY what you’ll get when you take the photo. In most situations, you’ll WANT to see this stuff, because it removes the uncertainly, especially when shooting in tricky light. Turning this setting OFF essentially makes your Fuji act more like a DSLR, where what you see may NOT be what you get. Unless you like the mystery of tricky exposures, you should keep this set to EXP/WB ON.

maybe that would have been a nice picture too. A nice picture can show things that aren’t necessarily nice, a “ chocolate box” image is always nice but not often memorable. Interestingly when we see the sun setting or rising in actual facts we are seeing an optical illusion and the sun has already set or has yet to rise.

is this of interest? https://www.fujirumors.com/technical-note-source-occasional-pop-ads-mobile-devices-surfing-fujirumors-found-fix-way/ Perhaps it is.

cheers, enjoy

Periodically I do have a look on the site of my trusted chain of camera shops in the NL and to my amazement I see the “ old” X-T1 still for sale at relatively high prices for a camera that is last year’s flavor of the month . I own, use and love the X-T1 and will only (at this point) part from it when it stops working. I am really doing all I need to do and I don’t see how any of the new cameras would make me do anything in a better way than my camera does already. Having said this. The graphite edition body would set you back now €999 which, if you ask me, is still a VERY respectable amount of money. https://www.kamera-express.nl/product/12201039/fujifilm-x-t1-graphite-zilver-body-flitser/?channable=e27102.MTIyMDEwMzk But are these cameras still selling? Really? I can’t imagine someone whom, would go in a shop and buy a digital camera that is no longer in production (how different it was the secondhand camera business in the days when you could have used a camera for decades without becoming truly obsolete). Why don’t they slash the price down and get rid of the aging stock before it becomes truly unsellable?

isn't this one of the manual focus aids? The manual is your friend. Watch this video

wise move

There is a lot of confusion on this matter and I admit to being confused myself. As I understand, which might not be entirely correct, the visual content of raw files is in itself not visible, that’s why each camera type produces a low resolution embedded jpg file for the purpose of visualization for example on your LCD. Your camera converts the raw file into a high res image or you do this with a dng converter or raw converter program but until then you are only visualizing low resolution images.

I am not buying anything until my X-T1 ceases to work. I can print up to 2 x 3 meter with 16Mp and I still have to find any reason to throw out a perfectly working camera to buy the latest model and take the same pictures

perhaps the " price increase" is due to the pound devaluation?

I don’t think you should use an external card reader. That has sometimes caused problems. Use, instead, the built in SD card reader at the back of the computer. Sorry if it sounds strange but let’s do a step by step description. Download the file onto the desktop. Make sure the card is formatted. Insert card in the card reader at the back of the computer. Drag file from desktop into the card. Remove card. Insert in the camera. Switch on the camera WHILE holding the disp back button. Then follow the instructions on the screen. Good Luck

welcome! there are a couple of threads threads on birds in flight. It might be a start. Good luck! http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/2479-birds-in-flight-with-x-pro2/ http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/3972-xt2100-400-pushed-birds-in-flight/ http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/4944-humming-birds/ this blog was mentioned in a post http://bjornmoerman.blogspot.nl/2016/04/bird-photography-in-dubai-with-fujifilm.html

the manual is a great friend

mine doesn’t have this and any other problems which apparently were corrected before I bought my copy, so i don’t have I had any problem with the camera skin coming off or the doors bulging or screws from the bottom spontaneously unscrewing themselves. Frankly speaking every time I asked myself if I were so lucky or the others were so unlucky. Not only I haven’t had any problem but, to date, I still don’t see any reason to upgrade my X-T1 and will only upgrade when the camera will cease working.

there are no other autofocus teleconverters and even if there was a non autofocus converter you can’t use auto focus fuji lenses in manual without connection to the camera because they are focus by wire ( I think they all are, even those with a clutch). Apparently there is a good reason not to have general purpose teleconverters (as opposed to one specially suited to one lens) and that is that there is little to no advantage in terms of resolution. In other words by using the converter you lose more resolution than you would by cropping. You could adapt a manual focus lens with an extended range but it would be manual focus. Again, there are no autofocus options yet (aside from Zeiss) with any other lens on Fuji.