milandro

Make sure your camera is in MS not ES mode http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/650-longer-than-30s/ http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/2710-x-t1-bulb-or-long-exposure-setting-problems/

few people probably own the 135mm and even fewer would have used it with a teleconverter, which probably explains the lack of response. Anyway. Being the teleconverter 1.4 x the focal length will not be 270mm ( which would be doubled it it were 2x but it isn'y) but 189mm the good news is the because it isn’t 2x you shouldn’t lose 2 stops but only 1.4 stops.

yeah one of those things that , with hindsight, should lead the inventor to think: “ what was I thinking there !?"

You are asking too much from that sensor .

I am absolutely with you

I did say that a monochrome camera is not for me, but again, if Leica sells it , and for so much money, there has to be a market out there. Fuji, in my opinion will not make one, but anyone can have his camera made into a monochrome camera, as shown above. If OP wishes to do so, it is his money. I make use of the great NIK google Suite containing one of the best B&W converters and I am quite happy with it. See the link above.

well, I am not in the market for something like this but there are a few Leica customers whom obviously are. The reasoning is that ( from wikipedia): " Leica claim that the camera delivers 100% sharper images than monochrome images derived from a camera with a color sensor (of comparable megapixels).[4] The camera is able to alter the captured image to apply three toning effects (called sepia, cold, and selenium).[4] The achieved sharpness is due to the lack of a color filter array, thus avoiding the process of demosaicing by capturing the true luminance value of each photosensor.[4] The removal of the color filter array also means that no incoming light is filtered, making the sensor more light sensitive, which explains the high native ISO of 320." https://us.leica-camera.com/Photography/Leica-M/LEICA-M-MONOCHROM They seem to think that this camera is worth the best part €6,000

it is possible to have your sensor converted to a monochrome. https://www.maxmax.com/maincamerapage/monochrome-cameras/fuji-monochrome https://www.maxmax.com Contact Information (001) 201-505-1566 Voice (001) 201-882-0344 Fax Postal Address: 220 Broad Street, Carlstadt, NJ 07072, USA Electronic mail: sales@maxmax.com The rest of us kan keep doing what we’ve always done.I don’t understand the need of a monochrome camera because I am happy with my B&W processing of color originals. (please look here) http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=5620

this is too stupid an accessory

Less than practical solutions are known to exist for this “ problem” ( wait until a gust of wind catches you wearing that while on a cliff, you’ll easily find yourself flying OFF the cliff

€500 including lens? If they can pull it off. All the cameras they tried before in this price class ( XA and XM ) only sold because they had flashy colors and their sales were mostly concentrated in Thailand ( for some reasons). I think that they are getting their demographics wrong , but time will tell.

We really don’t know anything other than the name. Probably we don’t need this camera if it has an older sensor ( in which case buy used or left over in shops I am still hanging on my XT1 and still see no reason to upgrade). Maybe this is one of the cameras that later will be known as: “ What the hell were they thinking” model. I see someone in the “ discussion” http://www.fujirumors.com/fujifilm-now-working-fujifilm-x-t100/ who thinks this might be a compact with a built in zoom. Well, Fuji lost lots of money on the X10-20-30 ( I liked my X10 for what it was and could do) so I don’t think that they are going to repeat the experiment with a larger sensor ( par of the appeal was the size). There is certainly a scope for a cheaper X camera for the Asian markets in particular Thailand ( Which have always favored the XA series), maybe that’s what they are thinking? But one of the most important selling points there is the LCD tilting towards the subject for selfie purposes. But since the XA3 has a different sensor ( but 24Mp) it might fit somewhere in there somehow.

Sorry, I had to laugh about the previous comment, couldn’t help it! the idiomatic use of this word might not be universal Anyway moving on... Any good brush will remove most of the dust particles but let’s face it, any soft surface, like the rubber parts of a camera will, by its own nature collect dust particles adhering to it. So brush the dust off and if you are really obsessive about ti you could take some adhesive tape of some sort and use it’s adhesive part to remove the bits adhering to the rubber parts but they will be quickly replaced by other dust particles. A good way to clean lenses is to use the lens pen ( original or otherwise) , a kit like this would do all you need to do

Thanks, there was no need of a new post, you could have simply edited your previous post now you have another post on this forum You don’t want to contribute to what? If you don’t write or come back here you don’t contribute. As for non active members. The Membership of any forums contains over 75% of members whom for some reason or other no longer participate. This is the transient nature of internet. It is not that because of you being a member of this forum in perpetuity will grant any monetary gains to the ownership. They base their advertising on the hits rather than on the number of members. Every time you open a page there is a click and they can say I have has so many hits my space is worth that much. Not : “ Look, I have so many members, my space is worth that much!"

you can easily use a step up ring from 43 to 46 ø But there are 46mm lens hoods too (it’s all there and costs peanuts!) lots of them (many more than I am quoting here). http://www.ebay.com/itm/46mm-Vented-Lens-Hood-Black-LW-/172365590912?hash=item2821ca3180:g:nBcAAOSw8gVX9dHX http://www.ebay.com/itm/46mm-Vented-Lens-Hood-Black-LW-/172365590912?hash=item2821ca3180:g:nBcAAOSw8gVX9dHX

was your " host file" or "hostile file” ? Seriously what is that Johan? I don’t know about these things, but you are the IT expert

Well, you must admit that they had to find a way to express all of its many functions in one word and they did find this way, which though it was not apparent to you, was obviously rather more clearer to most others ( most people have found a way to deal with this, either reading the manual, by trial and errors or simply by logic) Probably the idea was that “ drive” is all that has anything to do with driving the shutter activations control and driving multiple alternatives of the exposure ( single exposure, multiple exposure, various bracketing functions). In any case the manual would have offered the solution as I suggested you above. What did you think the “ Drive" button drove?

drive is everything to do with the action of shooting, multiple single and bracketing shots

there are vented hoods of a ø 43mm on ebay for a pittance and they would fit both the 50 and the 35mm http://www.ebay.com/itm/43mm-Screw-in-Metal-Lens-Hood-LW-SZUS-/172016215379?epid=1868885799&hash=item280cf72553:g:LbcAAOSwp5JWXeDa this one said to be for Nikon S will probably fit well the 50mm http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Metal-43mm-Standard-Screw-in-Lens-Hood-for-Nikon-S-/361977009168?hash=item544782d410:m:mO2deSqOZNS46IpOrvnZXlg

presse the drive command and follow the instructions to turn off http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x100t/shooting/bracketing/index.html watch this maybe it illustrate even more simply, reverse the instructions

Cheers. The electronic shutter is best used if camera OR subject are not moving in the frame and if you need being silent. I have shot during the recording of a CD ( with the 35 mm 1.4 which everyone calls “ noisy” ) and there was no noise to speak of.

yes it is. why do you use electronic shutter when you know that you will be panning and when there is no advantage from it being silent? If the answer is the shutter speed being higher , this type of photography was possible even when cameras could, at most hit 1/1000 s.

If it pleases you I will tell that you are right in having made your discovery. I don’t have a horse in this race. Be well and enjoy all your lenses.

But your original comment was about the angle not about the light difference ( which is present and consistent in both your and their picture alike). However we are repeating ourselves. We made our point. I have no reason to argue with you. People can judge for themselves.

No EVF will always have some noise, which is the sparkly grain that you see, when viewing an image in extreme low light conditions. It is the nature of the beast. Unlike mirror and prism image of a DSLR this is mage is created by the sensor itself (als you have in liveview mode) and it is largely hardware determined (so it cannot be much or at all varied with firmware changes or they would have done it in the first place). As you have experienced it also greatly enhances the vision of the real light conditions. The conditions and comments that you quoted describe are precise and the way the evf will always work. I don’t have a problem with it and find it amazing how it amplifies light. I too use, mostly, manual focus lenses.