milandro

No I simply showed it to the forum ( remember forum is a place of discussion not a place to be right or wrong) I am not the one who made it, I just happened to see it on the scoop.it service which scoops all things of fuji interests. http://www.scoop.it/t/fujifilm-x-pro1-x-e1-x100s So, I thought of bringing this to the discussion. It seemed relevant to this discussion. Don’t you think? If the owner is a fool and his camera no longer works I have no way to know and neither have you, that’s why I suggest you contact him to know what happened to the camera which was still working during and after the test. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNm78q7KhQ0ncjcPpumWkRQ This is another video with immersion of a X-pro 2. Another fool? Maybe , maybe not? Do you know for sure?

I think you have explained yourself to the limits of your ability. So yes, let’s leave it there. No need to go any further.

I have all the reality that I need or want, and if you don’t like to read my words nothing compels you to read them. I am not looking for proselytes.

I have no new tone, I said this before in the same terms. My point was and has always been that if you shoot against the sun you may have problems (all sorts of whether sensor or lens induced) and shouldn’t be surprised if you do, I don’t think that I’ve made I made any “ spelling” mistake. I think that all the words that I have used were spelled correctly. Maybe you refer to my ideas that you may or may not agree with. Please read the definition of each word or verb. spelling |ˈspɛlɪŋ| noun [ mass noun ] the process or activity of writing or naming the letters of a word. the books and spelling in my class were too simple.• [ count noun ] the way a word is spelled: the spelling of his name was influenced by French.• a person's ability to spell words: her spelling was deplorable. You’ve misread me because of a improper interpretation of my words ( you may say that I haven’t expressed myself well, but that would be a first...) Anyway , I too shoot against the sun, occasionally, I don’t get upset if something strange happen and work with it not against it. misread |mɪsˈriːd| verb (past and past participlemisread |-ˈrɛd| ) [ with obj. ] read (a piece of text) wrongly. perhaps she'd misread the note and got the time wrong. (as noun misreading) : he withdrew an allegation based on his misreading of a newspaper article. • judge or interpret (a situation or a person's manner or behaviour) incorrectly: had she been completely misreading his intentions?

all lenses will fit your fuji with the right adapter. Good luck!

tests added to my ad

well, use the free NIK suite silver efex is free and gives you plenty of b&w https://www.google.com/nikcollection/

Precisely, it is exactly like people buying the most expensive power drill , capable to build a house, to tighten screws with it, and some even do this just now and again, for all they do with it might have used anything, really.

indeed they are and in case the power of the machine doesn’t need to exceed the one of the hand they serve the exact same purpose. Tightening a screw. If one can’t tell the difference between the two prints one can assume that the cheaper camera and sensor does the exact same job. Which is precisely what I wanted to point out.

I have tried and owned several ( read this thread that I’ve started some time ago) vintage lenses. http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/2599-new-bokeh-monsters-or-classic-cheap-adapted-glass/?do=findComment&comment=24193 Currently I have have reduced my adapted lenses to only a few, although I now also own and use the Petzval 85mm ( Canon version with focal reducer) and have adapted two Leitz projection lenses ( elmaron 50mm and colorplan 90mm). I have found that the focal lengths that are practical to use are de ones between 35mm and 135mm. I have never found good lenses among the several 28mm that I’ve tried. For true wideangles I am completely satisfied in using the 12mm Samyang which is a lens made for modern digital cameras. The reason is contained in this interview. According to Mr. Takashi Ueno in his interview given to the Fujifilm Blog he says the following: http://fujifilm-blog...ull-frame-dslr/ “...Firstly, the angle of light that film and imaging sensors can receive differ from each other. Film can receive light at the slanted angle of up to 45 degrees without any problem, but in case of the digital camera, the light needs to be as perpendicular to the sensor as possible. Slanted angle light causes mixed colors and therefore the real colors sometimes cannot be reproduced. In order to receive the light perpendicular to the sensor, it is important to make the rear glass element on each lens as big as possible to put the light beams parallel from the outlet of the light to the sensor. Finally, the back-focus distance should be shortened as much as possible to eliminate the degradation in image quality..." You can certainly use longer focals but then I would recommend you to chose lenses with internal focussing (IF) because otherwise dealing with the long focus excursion will be a difficult thing to do, while internal focus makes that all the easier. One of the best has to be the 300mm f4 nikon EF a champion in compactness and relatively cheap price for a lens of this quality. The best and easiest to use and to find type of lenses are the many varieties of 50mm , which, as you know, have a so called “ focal equivalent “ of around 80mm when used on a aps-c sensor. Most of these lenses will be rather soft open and get sharper as you close the aperture. You can buy one for little money and then buy an adapter. Generally you spend very little for a 50 f2 and spend more as you go up to f 1.2 Adapters come in many brands (or no brand) and prices but in my experience there is no need to spend the money that a Novoflex ( or the other premium brands) adapter costs. I would recommend K&F as “ dumb" adapter, Kipon tilt and shift ( I own the tilt only) and Zhongyi lens Turbo II as focal reducer adapter. You can spend more on adapters but you wouldn’t necessarily get a better product while spending less might give you some disappointing experience.

Fuji UK is the only Fuji which appears to sell refurbished cameras & lenses. https://shop.fujifilm.co.uk/what-is-refurbished

well, ask the person who did it? He is on youtube.

QED, I said this was going to be unpopular.

according to the specs you should be able to shoot the same amount of shots as you could have done before, but maybe you are doing something different than you did before.

and yet

I don’t know about you but from where I am standing, this looks like a beautiful camera, but it must be me...

these blurred pictures might ( even at 250) be the fruit of motion blur or there is something wrong about this camera somewhere. I recently bought a 16-55 and shot several pictures (on X-T1) which were not as sharp as they should have been. Turns out that the aperture of this lens didn’t close at the chosen value straight away, it looked like it was doing this in slow motion and if you quickly shot ( it might have taken a second to completely close) there were lot of shots out of focus. I returned the lens and decided anyway that it was too big and heavy for me.

yet another misreading of my post. I don’t have problems with shooting against the sun. I know It might give me all sorts of problems. What I said is that IF you shoot against the sun you already know that may have problems and shouldn’t be surprised if you do come across any problem.

isn’t this what these new batteries are all about? You probably have the camera with the old battery, right?

This of course is one of these critical articles which should make you question the buying of new and improved boxes over the intelligent use of the box that you have already. As I have seen time and time agin, this is a highly unpopular point of view anywhere focussed on promoting the acquisition of new equipment. http://friedmanarchives.blogspot.nl/2017/03/full-frame-vs-small-sensor-dont-laugh.html Gary Friedman makes a very good point and proves it , not with theoretical support but with a down to earth “ proof-of-the-pudding” approach. Takes two identical pictures with different cameras and prints them the same size ( which I have been advocating for some time) and then thinks of whether the bigger box results were so much better than the older and smaller box.

when you put it on a, no dial changes the aperture?

I am sure this is like any other X camera, on your lens you either have a A position or a sector between A and Aperture

The participation to these threads always overwhelms me So, I suppose this is to hint what I am interested about. If you look around the house or at any thrift shop you may find and old Super 8 film camera. Chances are that there is a wrist belt somewhere on the camera or in the case. Well these make outstanding wrist belts and of course, cost nothing! Just unscrew and screw under your camera : “ et voilà!”.

the search engine is you best friend http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/376-third-party-batteries/ http://www.fujirumors.com/tested-third-party-fuji-batteries-inflated-capacity-values-some-batteries-almost-fraud-and-the-winner-is/

it is possible. why hook the camera to the computer with a cable I don’t understand. What’s wrong with removing the card and insert it in a card reader or in your computer?