milandro

Good for you! The problem I have with this type of grip is that the whole thing simply serves the purpose of extending the front grip but has no other function for the base plate. In other words. Other plates with front grip have the base (and side in case of an L plate) with a Arca-compatible funtion. Since this wooden plate doesn’t offer that ( and could although the design would need to be more complex) if you want to couple your camera on a Arca compatible head you need, at the very least, to add one plate. Making it way heavier than it needs to be.

Reputable? It’s only the largest photographic shop in the world!

All Fuji equipment ( aside from Instax) comes with an international guarantee and most local Fuji will honor this guarantee for a year, there is no reason to suppose that they wouldn’t repair your camera past the one year. I am quite sure that there was and still is a difference between Nikon and Fuji due to the difference in their corporate structure. As far as I know you can even send the camera to repair in another country (of course shipping is more expensive). Anyway, when in doubt, call them http://warranty.fujifilm-digital.com/contact

the first only fits with the 18mm The other with camouflage will fit also with a zoom this is another one http://www.ebay.com/itm/JJC-OC-MC-Series-Neoprene-Camera-Case-For-T4I-T3I-T5-D5200-D3200-18-55mm-X-M1-/151976713183?hash=item2362849bdf:g:a68AAOSwQYZWt6Ju

will Neoprene do? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Grey-camera-case-for-Fujifilm-X-M1-X-T10-18mm-Lens-X30-JJC-OC-S1-DMC-LX100-LX100-/201513541068?hash=item2eeb249dcc:g:V4sAAOSwXshWqqjw http://www.ebay.com/itm/JJC-OC-MC0YG-Neoprene-Camouflage-Camera-Case-For-Fujifilm-HS50-X-M1-X-T1-55-200/151966321411?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41376%26meid%3D2cafa3d70c8943d0ac45898884906ffc%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D122416709201 There are also silicone skins for this camera http://www.ebay.com/itm/Silicone-Armor-Skin-Case-Bag-Camera-Cover-fr-Fujifilm-X-M1-X-A2-X-A1-WHITE-/162273225409?hash=item25c83ceac1:g:8DMAAOSwImRYIUo6

B&H is a very reputable shop and if they offer you a one year guarantee that is good. Besides ALL fuji items have a one year international guarantee although in some countries that is a very difficult thing to enforce.

there are a few on line , some ave access to batteries ( better, but tend to be halfcases) some don’t ( but tend to be full cases with space for a kit lens ) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Coffee-Leather-Camera-Case-Bag-Cover-For-Fujifilm-XA10-X-A2-XA2-X-M1-X-A1-XM1-/252795603053?hash=item3adbcac86d:g:yUUAAOSwn7JYE3F4 Otherwise there are the usual suspects like Garitz, but it seems to me an overkill. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Camera-case-bag-Grip-Strap-for-Fujifilm-Fuji-X-M1-X-A1-X-A2-XM1-XA1-XA2F-/282409891253?var=&hash=item41c0f0f5b5:m:mhRRS4SMiTLlckbJAfgIBhA

you can easily find the 50-230 for €150 secondhand, I don’t think that this is a price quality would be easy to beat, not even in a “ cheap “ offer. I bought one new for that price sold by someone who had bought a X-A1 with 16-50 and 50-230.

Get the 18-55 and buy the 50-230mm on its own. There is no doubt that you will be better served by the exceptional quality of the 18-55 compared to the 16-50. With respect this 16-50 is not the complement to a camera like the X-T20, this is the lens made for a camera like the X-A3 , nothing wrong with that but a different animal. If you are into family snapshots and selfies, that is precisely what you need. If you are into more quality oriented photography you don’t want the 16-50. On the other hand, I am a very enthusiastic owner of the 50-230, but I don’t use long focal lenses very much. This is the perfect lens to have for, just in case. Buy the kit lens before and only THEN decide whether you need a prime lens already covered by that! I owned the 35 f1.4 and sold it because I had bought the 18-55 and was not using the 35 anymore.

well, I suppose it is a fine balance between loss of resolution because the result is challenged optically ( unlike film, sensors respond very poorly at images formed by slanted light rays) or because it is loss of resolution. On my monitor I cannot tell the difference between the two.

They seem to have learned that they need to space out the introduction of new cameras in order to not compete with themselves. By not overcrowding the market at the same time they even manage to sell multiple bodied to the same customers. Maybe the X-T3 and the X-E4 will be my next camera, who knows... .

Very interesting. It would also be nice to see the difference with a software perspective corrected file and one made with the shift of the optics. It would be nice to see what happens with the 12mm Samyang ( which does have an aperture ring). Another consideration that I make by watching this image is that when you have line perfectly perpendicular, they appear to be overcorrected ( it is an optical illusion) and that leaving 1º tilt uncorrected makes them look generally more natural. I don’t know if you are familiar with this but some people talk about it here for example. http://masteringphoto.com/lens-correction-in-photoshop-cca-standard-and-alternative-approach/ Note > There is a limit to the amount of correction that can be undertaken in some images before shapes at the edges appear excessively distorted. In some images where the verticals of a building are fully corrected, so that they run parallel to the edges of the frame, there is an optical illusion where the building appears to be growing wider. In these instances Upright may adjust the converging verticals so that they are not absolutely vertical.

I wouldn’t expect Fuji to produce a non autofocus lens. As for dimensions it is evident, to me, that Fuji runs two distinct line of lenses ( which can be cross-used) , one mean & lean and affordable for most for the photographer whom doesn’t have deep pockets or want to travel light, and one comprising lenses big in size and performing to the limits of their optical capabilities, often beyond the the needs of the majority of their clients, a much more expensive line. They determined that, for now, they weren’t going to add another 35mm to their line.

I didn’t “ upgrade” to a X-T20 on the grounds that I don’t need any of the improvements offered by this camera. Nevertheless, please accept my thoughts, doubts and considerations as a constructive contribution to your choice. Of course you may think that these new features are essentials that you cannot miss, but my question to you is: Are you sure that you don’t want to upgrade for the sake of upgrading? What is that you will be able to do then, when you have the new camera that you cannot do now? Would it be so bad to wait for the X-T30? What are you going to do then? Upgrade once more? It is not that you don’t have a superb camera now. You do. 24Mp would make you print lager prints, but did you ever reach the limits? It might help by giving you more cropping possibility ( assuming that you’ve ever reached those limits) but don’t you think that paying more attention to shoot “ in format” rather than cropping afterwards would be a better way to use any camera?

Indeed, great pictures. However, like several other lens or accessories ( I own a Petzval lens, or the tilt adapter, both a one-trick-pony too) meant to provide one thing and one thing alone, the reasons that make this lens so special are to be found in a narrow band of uses and only a certain amount of users. A niche market. This has to be the reason why Fuji hasn’t gone through with a similar lens themselves.

yes, interesting, but again, puzzling. Rask, himself says that the main reason to buy this lens is to buy it to shoot wide open and that wide open the lens has only millimieters of sharpness due to its limited depth of field . I too like shooting, especially portraits with, little depth of field or limited definition and in order to do this I use lenses or adapters. I just don’t know whether I would do it by means of a lens like this at the price of a lens like this. this is a youtube review

I think that yes, it is, noise, but , as far as noise goes , in my judgement, it is not excessive under the circumstances. If that bothers you however there are softwares which act as reducing noise, although possibly your settings could be adjusted ( but I am not sure that a much better results would be obtainable) to influence that outcome somewhat. Patrick FR regularly posts on his blog things like these http://www.fujirumors.com/expires-soon-save-72-on-denoise-pro-and-remove-all-forms-of-image-noise/

I didn’t know that Zhongyi doesn’t make a Canon FD > FX focal reducing adapter, you may ask them because they certainly have that mount for other cameras ( and might be able to do this special order for you). try to ask them first, before you order

OK, this seems to be their site http://www.rjcamera.com/ocart/index.php?route=common/home Note that (on contact us) they make no mention of their physical address. they mention their email address and paypal. It looks like a rebranded item and resold by this Ron Jing from Shanghai

I personally am very happy with the Zhongyi lens turbo II because they are a well known brand and made well, don’t have the hot spot in the center and perform very well. The RJ Brand speed booster might be made by the same production line but it is an unknown quantity. I have seen some tests which suggest that they are good. You can find these Zhongyi lens turbo II for $149 or less on Ebay.. They cost €229 in shops in the NL. I have bought two (one M42 to FX and a Canon EF to FX) currently I have only the second because I decided to use M42 lenses without any focal reducer while using the Canon on my Petzval 85mm. Where are you going to buy them for €100?

nice solution, you can also reverse mount filters on this construction

Owning a couple of batteries is not a luxury that one should be thinking too much about so the solution to this problem is rather simple. However, and please don’t take this the wrong way, you are saying that you are displeased with shooting for 3-4 hours and yielding 150 pictures as a result. I understand that nowadays the trend is shooting a lot first and go through thousands of shots to chose from after but there has to be a way to think more and shoot less. Seriously, when I was very young I was working for a press bureau ( although I was never a real press photographer), and they gave us one roll of +/- 36 shots, we were cutting them to size from large rolls ourselves per event. An we were expected to bring back the beef. However, I understand that you may be into weddings. Those are notorious for asking a lot from the photographer covering the event, but two batteries should be sufficient and in any event (pun) buy 3...! Good luck!

Some accessories fish things from the old bag of tricks. Remember those prismatic filters that you may have bought in the ’70 or ’80 on a whim and seldom or never used? Someone fished out that concept again ( in 2014) I don’t know if their initiative was ever successful.

try to get the latest version of the app. I have noticed improvements. Mine runs on an old LG ( I don’t use it much). I too have occasional connection problems but It does work. I can never remember whether it is better to start the app first or the camera first but I have noticed that there is a difference. I don’t use the app much as a camera remote control. I use it mostly to acquire pics on mobile devices (I’ve also used it on a cheap tablet that I had some time ago while on holiday) and then maybe send them with what’s app.

I don’t understand , I was just trying to help you. You got an email in Japanese ( not very wise of Fuji) and I helped you ( and everyone else) with a translation with Google Translate. What’s wrong with that?