milandro

If you say so.

Actually Warwick that’s the way Hendrik called his picture , so no I am not seeing anything that the author didn’t put there himself. "Mafioso @Tallinn, Estonia by Hendrik Osula, on Flickr" You see things differently when you are on the receiving end of these things, believe me.

I like these two pictures, but I don’t particularly appreciate, genetically being one, the characterization of someone of South-European or North-African looks as überhaupt “ mafioso”... unless you really know that it is the case and that he belongs to a criminal organization. Life is already difficult as it is without stereotypes and even more with them.

did you by any chance disable the toggle? You may have been doing this without you noticing it.

2 x 3 meters can be achieved with 16Mp and paying more attention to shooting works wonders with no need for cropping

I have a nice turbo adapter for sale in the for sale section

I don’t print often, in fact one of my arguments against the race towards the ever increasing higher pixel count is that I can have my X-T1 files printed 2 x 3 m as it is (and I don’t do much of it) and don’t need more pixels (and for my type of photography faster autofocus is pointless) than what I have. There might be other things beneficial but I am happy with what I have and will only upgrade when my camera stops working or something really revolutionary will appear without breaking the bank. Unless you have a very good printer (and print a lot) I think that home printing is not the best way to go. In general you will spend a lot of money trying to get what a good shop, with better equipment, will do for you. If you have something that you are particularly proud of you can have it printed on glass (or perspex).

well, I simply readjusted the levels. Several of your captures are, in my opinion, simply too pale, but maybe this might also depend upon your monitor or your taste for a more “ pastel” rendition. If you were ever to print those pictures you would see that they would flatten even more. But these things are not set in stone. Sometimes I see people with pics where there are only super saturated colors and images supposed to be in black and white which are sot in grey and grey-er. Nice compositions.

cheers!

nice pics but quite a few show very “ light” on my monitor, a bit less brightness would saturate colors and give more presence. If you don’t mind I made some quick and dirty adjustments to show what I mean.

http://fedka.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=645&osCsid=27adb002535454a076ceafec205bfd22

The semi circular patterns that you see in the image are known as: “ digital color banding " (in this case semicircular because of the sun in that particular position but they can be straight too). From Wikipedia Read about them here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colour_banding there are many tutorials for this https://fstoppers.com/post-production/learn-how-fix-color-banding-using-just-one-simple-tool-7946

one of these? I like K&F https://www.amazon.com/Concept-Adapter-Yashica-Fujifilm-Mirrorless/dp/B00OONJWTE

noted, I’ve removed it

Then I have to suppose that my post was of no use to you

I’ve mentioned this adapters with aperture in my other thread concerning the Petzval 85mm lens. I think it is worth making a special mention of these peculiar adapters. http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/747-petzval-85mm-f22-in-fujifilm-mount-anyone/page-3 The adapter is a “ dumb” adapter in as much as it has no electrical connections between camera and lens. Of course in the case of adapting a Canon EF lens to any camera the best approach would be to have an electrical actuator of some sort, but making one is very expensive and complicated, so, in China, someone thought of bypassing the problem this supposed mechanical way. Canon EF lenses have an aperture which is normally activated electrical between camera and lens so you simply can’t do it mechanically but they placed an Iris aperture in de adapter . This solution is not one that follows any optical principles and in fact it is not a “ solution” at all! The aperture , normally, has to be, for a number of reasons, placed somewhere in the “ middle” ( take this word with a grain of salt since was used for simplicity) of the lens. Apertures in that position serve the purpose to, yes, reduce the amount of light and increase the apparent depth of field, but also help correcting aberrations and generally improve the lens performance. So, Is there really a function that an aperture iris put between the camera and the lens can perform? Not really! If you are looking to do the same thing with these adapters that you can do by turning on a normal lens the aperture, no, you will be bitterly disappointed. These adapters are very quickly inducing vignetting in your lens though you are using a full frame lens on a APS-C sensor (so some of it will fall outside the image circle). But if you are looking at the occasional use of an EF lens that you are using completely open anyway, or a lens like the Petzval (which does have its aperture but where you can add this second aperture) this can be leading to some interesting (see my other thread) results. http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/747-petzval-85mm-f22-in-fujifilm-mount-anyone/page-3 there are several tests of these adapters (several brands all sorts of prices, my advise is not to spend a great deal of money on these they are pretty much the same, just choose one which seems to be made robustly), some involve other cameras. This one @https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eIkOwvaQZI for example is about a Sony Nex-7 and a Fotodiox adapter. The author claims there is an increase in depth of field... actually I should think that more than any increase of depth of field, the iris aperture in this position really only adds some contrast to the lens ( and therefore the numbers of the tape measure appear to be “ sharper” ). Happy experimenting!

If you want a canon EF to FX I might have one for sale

you have the choose the option “ More reply options” once you’ve done that you choose the file on your computer ( not larger than 1000Kb) and then you choose attach file, then you add reply , there is only a limit to how big the picture is in “ weight” but not actually in size. You can edit your pic in your post process and choose an output of 50% quality and you can post even a very large picture. There is a limit to the first visualization but if the user clicks on it it will expand to its larger size if it exceeds the size of the screen or forum visualization. I hope this helps.

I don’t have this camera but aren’t these all functions which can be enabled in the EVF/LCD custom preferences? http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t20/menu_setup/screen_set-up/index.html#disp_custom_setting

I really don’t see the “ problem” but if OP does he can buy the X-E3 to come (or another camera that has it).

yes, exactly, it doesn’t, that’s what I’m saying. If it would (as apparently it does on the X-T2 and X-Pro 2) what you do to the file is absolutely equivalent to changing ISO if you leave the shutter speed and the aperture the same. The fact that “ it is there” doesn’t mean much,it is really a function not pertaining the use of a camera in manual exposure (even if they now seem to have created that “ function”). EV compensation dials first appeared on the first automatic exposure cameras, manual exposure camera never had one. But yes there is a difference with a film camera. In a film camera if you put the ISO at a different sensitivity you will effectively push or pull the film. This doesn’t happen in a digital camera but you can use the ISO dial as if it was the EV correction and in the EVF you will see the image getting darker or lighter accordingly if you stick to the shutter/aperture couple. But If I want a lighter or darker picture I can actually see in the EVF and what you see (if the evf is well programmed) is pretty much what you get. In any case it is all academic when you use RAF files .

if you hold the shutter speed and the aperture, whether you are aware on not, if you would be able to use the EV compensation dial you would be doing the same as you would by using the ISO dial.

But OP wants it on his camera and there won’t be any firmware update. Anyway I’ve always worked this way my entire life and I’ve never found it a problem.

Strictly speaking, it really shouldn’t matter, but in a way it does since you get a purposely underexposed image by using extended DR. Anyway many think differently and this matter has been extensively talked about on other platforms. https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3976406