jlmphotos

I found this problem with my Singh-Ray and with B+W. Fortunately a quick eye-dropper in LR fixes the cast -- I've also tried shooting in "daylight" not Auto WB and that seems to help. Have you tried that?

Besides the fact the 23 F2, the 35, and the 50 are all butt ugly (IMHO) I own the 23 1.4 and to me it's very neutral, and clinically sharp.

Done

And I don't waste time, or batteries screwing around with the back of the camera. Heck, I even have preview image turned off... So for me, and only me, this plugin would be a waste. I don't edit, delete, or assign any ratings in camera. Period. "Nobody got time for dat" LOL I do chimp when I want to be sure I nailed the image, but again, my preview is turned off.

Tru 'dat brother. But I shoot jpeg + raw. 99% of the time, I'm in Provia, the other 1% in Acros so to me I import it all as the most prevalent simulation I used for that shoot, then change at will during either the culling process, or when I go into edit.

Will do! I'll try and get this done over the weekend! J

Man these are great images!!! I too love my 55-200 lens! It's so much lighter, and cheaper than the 50-140. Beautiful images.

I've shot soccer with the 55-200. It's not the fastest lens, but it's SHARP even wide-open. I've used it with the X-T1 and 2. I Use a high(er) iso -- such as 400 to 800. Provia color ( that's up to you) I Shoot wide-open aperture to keep the shutter speed as high as i can. If using the X-T2, change the focus to "C" and set it to the best tracking mode (experiment while they are warming up). CH mode for bursts. JPEG only if you choose (though I shoot both JPEG + RAW) mostly because I forget to change it to JPEG only. I also shoot softball the same way -- but it's little league so not as much action there.

I've used silkypix in the past and it does an AMAZING job! Capture One? Downloaded a free trial and played with it, just did not enjoy working in it as much as my LR, or Apple Aperture, Silkypix, or Iridient.

Well I'd hate to be the person who bout the GFX with "only" 50mp when a 100mp or more is just around the corner. It seems that between computers and cameras you have to buy a new one every Monday morning to stay current.

Can't help... Haven't touched a PC since 2001...

I think I'll continue to use LR for 99% of my raw work. I've used others, but always come back to LR. It does everything I need it to. Every now and then when I want to "play" I'll switch over to Iridient Developer which is truly amazing as well.

I don't think it's reasonable at all. Fuji has zero control over the individuals usage patterns; they also have no idea if the problem stems from a voltage issue at the end-users home/office/hotel/country. I can see them replacing it once - say as a courtesy, but twice, to me spells of a more serious issue (?) somewhere else. Let's face it, and I'm not knocking the OP here at all, but who knows what some folks do and/or try to pull in order to garner free stuff. Again, not saying the OP here is doing this, but look at it from a corporations point of view.

Or, just possibly, there is a potential voltage problem at the OP's home/office? Always possible...

I haven't had any swelling issues whatsoever and some of my Wasabi's go back to 2013.... I'll def. keep an eye on them though.

Could it be your LR is out of date and is not reading the Fuji raw files correctly?

That's a shame you had such a bad experience with Fuji UK. Just a few miles from me is the Fuji USA (Edison, NJ) office. And I absolutely love them! Ever since I was shooting with the old Fujifilm S1Pro, and then my Fujifilm S2 Pro d-slr's they have taken care of me in the most professional and friendly way. As far as batteries go I use Wasabi batteries. I purchased the Wasabi charger which comes with two batteries for a mere pittance on amazon (US) starting back in 2013 with my X-E1, then added more wasabi batteries for my X-T1 and X-T2. I have never, ever had an issue with them.

So does just plain old lightroom. I have all the X-T1, and X-T2 film simulations in LR -- I use these as presets when I upload my images into LR, together with copyright notice, filename change, keywords, etc.

16 1.4 or the 23 1.4 Though, other posters had good suggestions moving your feet (whenever conditions/location permits) I'm too lazy.

If you opened the box of your new X-T2, and broke the "silver seal" on the plastic bag, it's new. I had a similar issue with my X-E1 back in 2013, freaked out and called Fuji in Edison NJ. They assured me it was new. I had used a memory card out of another camera.

As you'll note in my signature down below i own various lenses. Each has it's own filter size. However, having come over to the light side from Nikon Full-frame all my filters are 77mm in size. So, I have a step up ring from whatever lens I'm using, up to the77mm. So, on my 18-55 which is 58mm, I have a step-up ring from 58-77, etc. etc. As far a filter brands I've always gravitated to the Singh-Ray brand. They are pricey, but are just amazing. They also offer outstanding service and/or replacement policy, which I put to good use once. Other brands could be Hoya, BW, Tiffen. I have a Hoya Circular Polarizer that is older than dirt and it still works and does an amazing job! To me, the main thing is to standardize on a size (77mm in my case) then build around that. Many folks, and you'll probably here from many here use the Lee system. To me they are way to over-priced, and almost never in stock. If you are planning on using any filter with a wide-angle lens, try and get 'thin' filters, and thin step-up rings; doing so will avoid the vignetting where you can see the filter in the four corners of your image. This is an advantage to using the larger, square Lee (and other) system but again, easily preventable. Whatever you get: GET QUALITY filters from some of the brands I mentioned above. You've spent hundreds and hundreds on Fuji lenses, don't cheap out on polarizers (or any other filter you place in front of your tack sharp lenses). If you take care of them, they will last a long, long time. Hope that helps. Good Luck

More megapixels, more resolutions, more noise. Especially when viewing the Raw.

Interesting read here. First of all, I returned my 56mm about two days after I purchased it because of slow focusing issues. Maybe it was the lens, because ti certainly was not the subject. You also mentioned you manually focused. Last weekend I photographed for stock use a box and a bunch of Cuban Cigars. I used manual focus for some, and auto focus for others; 35mm 1.4, Tripod, remote. Each and every one of the manual focus images taken with the 35 and the x-T2 were rejected for lack of sharpness/focus. Whereas the autofocus ones were approved for sale. Weird. I'll have to re-shoot the images this coming weekend with all on autofocus and see what happens. Just my .02 cents... Though not totally relevant except for the manual focus part. Oh, I used the LCD, and the red highlight when manual focusing....

Great images! I too chose the 55-200 over the 50-140 --- actually, the 50-140 wasn't available when I purchased the 55-200 but that's ok. I LOVE my 55-200. It's tack sharp, focuses fast, and it's lightweight compared to the other behemoth Fuji is cranking out.

If you go to my profile you'll read that I am absolutely NOT into street photography. In this image, I do love the tone of it, and the gritty details. But to me, there is no subject -- again I'll say I don't know sh*t about street photography so just take that with a grain of salt. I kinda wish the pole wasn't there, but on the other hand it draws my eye in to it's color or lack of and the texture of the old posters. That part of the image I like very much, the subject matter? Meh, I'm not a people person. If I had taken it, I would have waited for the humans to go away