jlmphotos

@Xcalubur: I only have had experience with the 56 1.2 and I can't say it was good. I was shooting two christenings in the same church back to back. the church was very well lit with many windows along the sides, and beautiful skylights over the altar area. Unfortunately the 56 1.2 hunted and hunted for focus. I got so frustrated I swapped glass to the 35mm 1.4, and the 18-55. Everything went well after that. That was my experience, but many others across the inter webs report great results with the lens. However, for me it just didn't work well and I wound up returning it for a refund.

I've read a lot of web articles regarding the 18-135 not being as good, or tack sharp as the 18-55. You may want to test it and if you don't like it return the item. For me, it seems a tad large even though I really like the range. In order to supplement my 18-55 I bought the 55-200 and I'm quite pleased with it. I had to choose between the 55-200 and the 50-140, but I did not want to carry all that extra weight around and drop almost 1,000 more. For that, I'd have kept my Nikon 70-200 2.8.

THANK YOU UBarni! That solved my problem! I knew I had been fiddling in there. Thanks again my friend.

Hey Guys and Gals, I have a minor problem -- actually it's not even a problem... Anyway, I inadvertently changed something somewhere in the menus. Now, let's say I'm focusing on a subject, once I hold down the shutter release button for a second or so, the EVF view enlarges to like 100%. I don't want that as it doesn't suit my purposes. How do I change it back to normal. This was especially troublesome yesterday while shooting a small kids T-Ball game. I would focus on the batter, and as I kept my finger on the shutter button pressed 1/2 way down, waiting for the swing, the eve zoomed in to like 100%. It wasn't like that before so I know I pressed, or changed something. Any quick thoughts? I just haven't had time to go through the manual, or Rico's book to change it back. Thank you all, Jorge

Good to know. Thank you

Fuji does work the same -- 9999 and new folder. But as an added there is a way to see the actual shutter actuations if you have a Mac (not sure about a PC) Shoot a NEF, open it in Apple PREVIEW, Once the NEF (or canon CR2) is open in PREVIEW, go to Tools, Open Inspector. when the Inspector opens, in the INFO box you'll see the shutter count and the actual actuations of the shutter. Those will differ if you use LiveView because as soon as you enter LV, and even if you decide to not take a photo, the the camera records that event as an actuation. So those numbers will not match - unless you never use live view.

Hey, I use both my X-T1 with the 18-55, 35, Zeiss 12 and the 55-200 for landscapes, cityscapes, etc. I love it. I've printed up to 24 x 18" (so far) and the results are phenomenal and I AM A PIXEL PEEPER. LOL I also shoot with the Nikon D800, but "most" of the time I use the X-T1 -- even for stock images. I then process them in LR 5.0, though I've used both Iridient Developer, and Silkypix. But LR 5.x has really improved the process.

This lens is FREAKIN' amazing! I love it. I own the 18-55, the Zeiss 12mm, the 55-200, and the 35mm. IT is a super tack sharp lens with what I consider beautiful bokeh. I've owned it since Feb 2013 and have used it on both my X-T1, and my old X-E1. And, at the current price it's bargain (IMHO)as I paid "much" more than that back in 2013.

I use LR 5.x and the color profiles in there for my raw processing. I find they come "closest" to the jpeg. Even if they are a bit off, I can either leave it or adjust it manually. I do believe LR has made some serious gains in the X file details, sharpening, etc so that I don't use Iridient Developer, or Silkypix much anymore. The tradeoff is a much more efficient workflow for me at least.

I don't think the X-T1 has been out long enough yet to compile data on that. And, I have spoken with Fuji in person at the Edison, NJ service center ( just passing through the area and popped in) as they had worked on my S1 and S2Pro bodies years ago, and they tell me there is NO WAY, not even in their labs, to determine how many shutter actuations have been made on the X cameras.

Doubtful. Sensor spots would show up when you stop down the aperture. Normally, unless the sensor is pretty filthy they won't show up at wider apertures UNLESS you crank up the contrast in post. At least that's been my experience.

I've yet to do a wet clean on my X-T1 sensor. Normally, just a Giotto rocket blower takes care of it. However, if you changed lenses at the shore, it could be some fine mist/sea spray got in there as it's being blown about by the wind. I'm assuming you used F22 to test the cleanliness? Unless you regularly shoot at that aperture, and the spots are just a few that can be seen when closed down that much, I wouldn't worry about it. Unless the place you had the sensor cleaned before would do you a solid and clean it again for free. Honestly I try NEVER to change lenses at the beach/sandy area. No matter if there is no wind or not, there are still particles in the air.