jlmphotos

The "point" about having a 1.2 lens is for Fuji to sell it at the price it's at. Whereas, the 50mm F2, and the 60mm 2.4 are sharper, and better wide open. And I'm speaking from experience as I owned the 56 1.2 and was scheduled to shoot four small events back to back. The 56 was a PITA to lock focus, in an extremely well lit area, either wide open or stopped down; Once I switched lenses to yes, the lovely 18-55, and the 35 1.4, my problems were solved. The following three events were as smooth as silk. That next Monday morning the 56 1.2 went back to Amazon. I've never looked back, and I never will even CONSIDER that lens again.

I responded to one of your other posts, but I see the cheap batteries you are using. I use WASABI. I've used them since 2013 in my X-E1, X-T1 and X-T2 with NO ISSUES. What I love is they come as a set: 2 batteries plus a charger. Super sweet.

Hi: Maybe I can assist with #1 and #2. Even though iPhoto/PS/Photos are great tools they will not be able to give you the control such as LightRoom, or another image editor. Now, that hurts to say as I despise Adobe! but it's today's reality. I've tried Capture One and hated it, and I've tried On1Raw, and that is an extremely slick program. I think they are very, very close to being a LR competitor; but for now, it' Adobe LR. sorry. With that being said I've been using LR since BETA 1.0!! Going back years. On to Fuji: In LR, you can load all the different Fuji profiles and you can switch between all of the profiles when working on raw files. Now, the FUJIFILM RAW STUDIO software which is FREE and I've been testing is rather nifty as it allows the camera to do the heavy lifting. It is clunky, and has some drawbacks, but for a quick conversion, and to learn what the camera does internally when you say, change shadows from -1 to +1 it's pretty cool learning tool -- and it's free. It has a long way to go yet, but it's useable for some. I unfortunately have to stick to LR for now though as I said ON1 Raw is fast, and slick. And I know no one wants to hear this but the Silkypix software, though vERY clunky to use, is an amazing tool! It has so many options, it's just unreal. When I started shooting X cameras, in 2013, that was my only choice for a while as Adobe did not yet support RAF files, and when they finally got to it, their processing engine sucked. Every now and then I'll open up Silkypix and use it. It truly is a beautiful processor, though, as I and many others have said, clunky interface but you'll fund so many options in there that LR does not have. In regards to #3 Geotagging I take a simple and super cheap approach: I take a shot with my iPhone. When I'm back in LR, and I have the iPhone image in there (which it does automatically via LR Mobile) I open the iPhone image in LR Library module and copy the GPS coordinates. I then select ALL the Fuji images taken in that same location and paste my iPhone GPS coordinates right into the EXIF of the fuji images. It takes but mere seconds to do - and I don't need to bother with extra devices, dongles etc, sucking battery juice from my cameras.

You will never see the raw file when chimping off the camera back. Whether you are shooting jpeg/raw on one or two cards. Won't happen. I will assume that when you load them into your workstation, you then see both... Also, on a related note, if you just shoot jpeg, not raw, when you chimp on the back of your display and press to go to 100% if you are only shooting jpeg, the image will only show the small, basic one, not a full sized jpeg -- so what you thought was in focus, after peeping at it may cause some disappointment later on when you are editing> My lowly suggestion: Shoot JPEG & RAW, either to the same card, or separate card. This way you will have a full 100% when you chimp off the back of your LCD. later on when you are back at your computer, load the JPEG's in. Nobody says you have to use/keep the raw files. Delete them if you don't need them. My two cents.

Um... Honestly my eyes must be bad cause i can barely see the issue. But could it be you were shooting under Fluorescent lighting at the highest ISO?

X-T1 or X-T2 with the 16 1.4 or the 23 1.4 As you can see on my signature block I own quite a few lenses. You'd have to pry the 35 1.4 and the 18-55 from my cold dead fingers, BUT you have to use the eight tool for the job. The 35 is still "not that fast" even with all the upgrades The 60mm is one fine lens, and relatively fast at 2.4 aperture but it will NOT keep up with a moving rocker on stage. Doubtful. However, the sharpness, and micro-contrast on that lens is, well, incredible. Whatever you do: Keep it. Expensive option: 50-140. Also Heavy. Also expensive. Test one out. Rent it and try it. The 55-200 which I also own is a kick-butt lens, but may falter at darker, fast moving events such as a rock concert. So, if I had to choose here, and you can get close, it'd be the 161.4 or the 231.4

I'm sure everyone has piped in by now but it look like one of the "advanced" filters --- which, I wish Fuji would just take the heck out, and IN IT'S PLACE: Fix it so whatever settings we program into C1 - C7 stay LOCKED IN!!

Don't understand.... I don't do PJ on a regular basis, but I have shot some -- example: CNN report on the Philadelphia Building collapse several years ago for starters, plus other stuff and I've never gone through more than two batteries. Now, I don't spray and pray, I don't chimp when I'm in the groove, I just shoot....

Me thinks you need some gentle training to get the hang of the X-T2. I come from the D800/D800e family which got over 1000 shots per battery and honestly, I have no issues with carrying Fujji/Wasabi batteries. These way .15 of an OUNCE. seriously. Is it that big of a deal? Too many options? Maybe. However, I have been begging Fuji for a quick firmware update that will MEMORIZE any functions that are programmed into C1 - C7. For me, this will eliminate menu hunting. Also, may suggest the "MY MENU" feature. It's not a fix all, but it certainly helps. I use both the front command dial and the button. I have them set to certain functions. the front command dial selects my iso and the small 'press in' button, whatever it's called -I use it to lock focus as I moved it away from the REAR buttons which you cover a paragraph down in your post. Don't know what it's called but when my eye is not to the eyepiece, my rear display is lit and functional. With this i still get 300+ Jpeg+raw... Not an issue here. Shutter button: I like it's position. Never have given it much thought as to whether it's too high or too low. Who cares. You'll get used to it. As far as the "button" you mention you may have gotten a cheap screw in (?) possibly. I've had my "gecko" green one on my X-T2 for about a year and a half without issue. Mine has a thin rubber O-ring and when you screw it into the shutter release it does not come off for ANY reason (so far). Flash: Don't give a poop. Rarely if ever use flash - even though with my old Nikon system I used two+ speed lights, and Pocketwizards. I will say having to go into the menu setting and turn preview off or on is a PITA. But you know I haven't looked at having that option in MY MENU as like I said I stay away from flash whenever possible. That whole card thing I've complained about on my blog post a while back. Dumbest thing ever. I tend to do the same - leave the card in the computer or card reader. Not sure how to address that issue, but the way I use my card is either: Backup (one card to another) or, jpeg to one and raw to the second. As a matter of fact, I'm shooting a Karate event on Saturday and that's how I'll have the card set -- JPEG to one card, RAW to a second -- this way, I can, right from my iPhone and iPad send the JPEG's out during the event - and I'll just save the Raws (of which I use UNCOMPRESSED) for prosperity/archive purposes. Welcome to the FUJI fold! Let us know if you have ANY questions.

??? No idea I did that...

I don't know what you are doing but something isn't right. I get 250, 300 shots out of my batteries. No chimping, minimal rear LCD viewing. I am still using the one original that came with the X-T2, my X-T1 battery, and four Wasabi's that I bought in February 2013 when I bought my first Fuji - the X-E1.

This is EXACTLY what I've been looking for! Thank you for posting this.

I took the 18-55 for it's first "official" outing on Friday! As expected, it performed oh so well! You can read all about it in my blog - down in the signature block, but Patrick will be hosting my blog post in the near future on fujirumors.com. But if you want a quick peek, click on my signature block...

I'm telling ya. USE the 18-55. It's amazing! I should be a Fuji spokesperson- I swear.... I shoot stock and travel, and the 18-55 nails the image whenever I use it! That's why I bought another one.

Hey, no problem. I host my website through Photoshelter. But for this image here, just added it as part of my post. Nothing out of the ordinary. But I will say that adding images on here, say in the galleries is not the easiest thing to do. Heck, after two years on here I never get it right! You may want to get a hold of the admin for that specific info. And, Thank you!

Thank you sir.

I'm sitting here laughing out loud! Thank you. Though, with just over 12,000 images left to cull and edit, I may need MORE valium!

Yup. Ice cold statistics never lie - in this case at least. LR proves itself to me very useful in many cases, this being one of them.

Well my friends I went and done it! Some of you guys who have been here a while may recall my daughter "borrowed" my X-T1 and my "don't leave home without it lens" the Fuji 18-55. For the last several months I've been photographing using my primes only -- the fabulous 16 f1.4, the 23 1.4, 35 1.4, and 60 2.4 plus the 55-200 zoom. And I loved doing that. I've truly enjoyed making images as I have to be slower, and more thoughtful in the process plus, let's face reality, the primes will always beat a zoom with regards to sharpness, and micro-contrast among other things. However, the 18-55 is a lens I cannot live without! I love it. There I said it. If I loved it any more I'd have to name it and provide it it's own ss number for tax purposes. I do plan on continuing to use primes for most of my images as I really enjoyed using them and have weened myself off the zoom, but I will feel much better knowing my 18-55 is back in my bag just in case I need it! To be completely honest: I looked at the 16-55 2.8. Many of you who "know me" know that I've said I would never purchase this lens, and it's brother the 50-140 2.8 due to 1) the weight and 2) price. I looked at the 16-55 2.8, i thought about it, but I just couldn't bring myself to purchase this heavy, and expensive lens when for a quarter of the price my 18-55 works wonders, is super tack sharp, and has provided me with YEARS of use -- my original 18-55 was the kit lens that came on my Fuji X-E1 I purchased back in February 2013! This image below is one of over 16,000 images I have taken in various locations ranging from Key West, to Prince Edward Island in Northern Canada between mid-July, and early November. I believe I "lost" the 18-55 to my daughter when I returned from the Keys and was prepping to head north -- this image was in fact taken with the 18-55 lens. So, I'm now whole again and I couldn't be happier knowing it's there in case I need it. PS: Here in the Classifieds I'm offering for sale my Zeiss/Touit 12mm F2.8 lens. Check it out if you are in the market for a wide-angle for your Fuji!

After months and months of being without my "don't leave home without it lens" the Fuji 18-55, and only having used primes, today I finally found a brand new one online which I just ordered! I am so excited! I love my primes, but the 18-55 is just so darn convenient! Am I right?! I just loved my copy -- unfortunately one of my kids "borrowed" it with my X-T1 and I've yet to get it back so enough waiting... Price was right; Brand new US model, Bought it! Yeah!

There is a way to set up the LCD and the viewfinder to display this information. I don't have it handy, but I'm sure it's in the manual. On my XT1 and XT2 I can see the number of images remaining. I KNOW for a fact it's a check box you need to check in one of the menu's.... I just can't for the life of me tell you at this moment which one!

Normally, since I have my phone with me I just snap a photo of wherever I'm at. Once I'm back at LR, I just copy the GPS info from a photo taken with my iPhone, to ALL the photos in that series taken with the Fuji. Takes me seconds and I don't have to spend any $ on GPS units, or worry about battery life etc. Besides, my iPhone 7Plus takes a heck of an image to boot!

Unfortunately, and this is something that I and others have been clamoring for, is the Q menu settings don't always remain. Any changes you make to to ISO as an example in say C1, and you switch to C2, the ISO will not go to whatever you had C2 set, but stay and the changed ISO. This honestly sucks big time. I for one would like my C1, C2, etc. to be able to lock in the settings similar to Canon and Nikon cameras. I'm sure it just requires a firmware upgrade -- but for some reason, FUJI just doesn't get it.

Shoot in raw + jpeg (fine) Try Velvia, or Astia. After the shoot, when you import (into LR) i assume, you can change the film simulation of the raw file to suit your taste.

No it does not