Tom H.

Hello there! I might have visited your shop when we were on honeymoon :-)

It's even called lossless compressed in the menu...

My setup is as follows, this gives me everything I need at a button or in My Menu: MY MENU edit/save custom setting wireless communication movie af mode mf assist focus check af+mf release/focus priority af point display Q MENU: Top row: select custom setting film simulation grain dynamic range Second row: highlight tone shadow tone color sharpness Third row: flash function setting flash compensation shutter self-timer Fourth row: image size image quality movie mode mic level adjustment Buttons on d-pad: top = af mode left = af-c custom settings right = eye detection settings bottom = drive settings Top fn button = iso auto setting Front fn button = preview exp/wb in manual mode

On a portrait shoot I usually get up to 600 or even 700 shots out of a battery. On a day outside, usually 450, but I never shoot that much anyway.

I'd love a small 18-35 f2 wr zoom for travel. Anything else, I don't really need or desire.

That is brilliant news!

My thoughts exactly. I love my X100T, but when it dies, it will be replaced by an X-Pro 2.

The X-Pro 2 is the one I want, but the X-T2 is the one I need...

I would at least have liked the option to add this to the MY MENU options. It's the only setting I would like to customise and can't. Dear Fuji peeps, please add this in a future firmware update. Thanks ;-)

I tend to drift to the following for my "generic" setting at the moment: highlights +1, shadows +2, noise -2, sharpening +1, color 0. Seems a good compromise for Velvia and Provia. Still needs tweaking for the other colour profiles. For the Acros ones it's same, but with grain at low for the moment. I never liked the old Monochrome ones, I don't use those.

Hi there all, apart from the usual "find your own taste in settings" advice, do any of you have any recommendations when it comes to settings for the film profiles? I previously only used the raw files, but with the improved jpeg engine, I will be shooting jpeg+raw as from now on. Feel free to chime in with settings and examples if you please.

I'll keep my review short. It's major upgrade. Nearly everything I would have liked improved on the X-T1, has been done so. Mind you, the X-T1 is still a fine camera too. Pro: Autofocus is good enough now for everything I shoot. Image quality in jpeg has been improved. More pixels to play with. Video is now a useable feature. Everything I want customised is available to do so. Feels more rugged, except for the left door which still feels flimsy... USB charging! Yay! That stick is a thing of joy... *Eye autofocus gets almost unbelievable good results and is now perfectly usable and even recommended for single subjects or small groups. The newer the lens, the better it works. *The shutter sound is like an old school film slr, it sounds just like my Nikon F4. Con: Flimsy door on the left. *I still want a vertical grip, but it is too heavy and expensive. *The back button af-on button is still too small and not in the right place. *No real time zebras, please give us this for video and stills, like Olympus and Sony have already been doing for years... * Little update to all of the above after prolonged use.

Now with the X-T2 I'll go for 64/64. Before I used max 32 cards, just to make sure not to lose everything from the whole trip at once. Smaller than 32 is just inconvenient nowadays. I have plenty of old 8 gig cards lying around, but those have gotten too slow.

Small square only for posed portraits with very shallow dof. For everything else I tend to keep it at setting 3 or 4.

I'll sell you mine for 50 euro ;-)

I put the X-T1 and grip in it with a lens attached and an extra lens. No big zooms though. I have taken out most of the padding though, the small body doesn't need that much padding.

Just use the button underneath the shutter dial, that's what it's for... Also, on an evf, I find it easier to not bother much with metering anymore and just use the evf and exposure compensation. That's usually faster for my needs.

I have a ThinkTank Retrospective 5, that's going for 150 apparently. Also nice, looks old and worn but it's sturdy and not too big.

Peak Design Sling is 115 now on their Kickstarter. Haven't checked prices on other bags lately, 160 is a good budget to get something nice.

I have both the regular Peak Design Slide and Slite Lite. Both work fine, I prefer the Lite version though. I had a Blackrapid too for my Canon gear, but it's too big for my taste on the Fuji. Peak Design has a Kickstarter going on for new bags, if you like their stuff. What do you need in a bag? There's the ultra-fancy Billinghams and Ona's or the utilitarion Peak Design or Think Tank stuff... So many choices...

Peak Design has a fairly limited offer, but it's all good quality. For smaller cameras, I think the best combo so far is the slide lite and the wrist strap. The fasteners I keep on all my camera bodies. There are normally 4 per strap, so that should be plenty. The normal strap is a bit too wide and looks like a seat belt. The smaller one looks a bit more subtle. I forgot what the DSPTCH stuff was called. Their wrist strap was very good, but it wasn't as easy and fast to swap to a full strap as the Peak Design ones. Gordy was the best looking option. But I needed something more utilitarian...

I've used a Gordy strap in the past and a DSPTCH one. I finally settled on the Peak Design one, since their system with the fasteners is the most complete out there for people who use many different straps and bodies. The Peak Design one is also the lightest of the bunch and as secure or more so than others I've seen and used.

Scratches on the body never hurt the image quality. A camera is still a tool. Take care of it, but don't cuddle it to death either.

Exactly, don't know of any other solutions either. I have the Cactus ones and they work just fine.

At the rate Sony is releasing new bodies, I wouldn't be surprised to see an a7 III by the end of the year...