Tom H.

If you're good at the zone system, I'm sure you can do great things with it. But for 95% of the people, the rule above is more than enough for film and digital. I generally shoot all my film at 2/3 of a stop overexposed and metered for the shadows, and will push another stop in development if I'm not sure I gave it plenty of light. Exposing 2 or 3 stops over with film is no big deal...

For travel, that sounds more than plenty. If you want a good monopod, check manfrotto or sirui fluid friction monopods with extendable feet. Those are great for travel and video.

System specs are never an issue for me, I build my own systems. But yes, mac users need to be careful with gpu requirements...

Agreed. I've read up on it, and I can't say I agree with your view of the question. But arguments on morality are better reserved for long nights at a bar, with a good bottle of Scotch close at hand.

If this is about the whaling (which I totally agree on if you object to it), but then I'd hate to point out the obvious part where Fujifilm cameras are Japanese...

Agreed, and I like to strap a camera to my back and go for a ride on my bike, so my straps need to be easily adjustable so I can pull them tight.

I have no idea what that endorsement is? Care to elaborate? Before the Peak Design stuff, I used Blackrapid and DSPTCH straps, but they got replaced by the Peak Design stuff and I haven't looked back since. It's hard to find stuff that's utilitarian that doesn't feel cheap. And the fancy leather hipster straps look great, but are usually not as practical for my needs.

And the interior...

Some reference shots to gauge the size with a mirrorless kit. This is just the bag sitting on my desk, how I came home yesterday. In it is the X-T2 with 35mm attached, 50-140mm on the right, 16mm on the left, below the "shelf", I had a battery pack in it too, and room left for another lens/X100T and/or a small bottle of water. In the inner pocket there are 3 X-T2 batteries, 1 X100T battery, lens pen, some batteries for film cameras, and some spare memory cards. The outer pocket was empty and folded flat. It is expandable if needed. On the bottom, I attached my Gitzo 1541T as this is where you would store it if needed. I normally travel with far less gear, but I had a portrait shoot yesterday and needed everything in the bag. The bag folds flatter, the less gear you put in it, which is nice. Better shots and impressions will follow in the full review.

Yesterday's kit was the most I tend to travel with, and I still had room for the X100T or a bottle of water, so the sling seems perfect for my needs. Any bigger than that is not for me.

Yesterday I had the X-T2 with 35f2 attached, 16 1.4, 50-140 and a battery pack in it, with plenty of room to spare. I could easily have taken the X100T as well. The 50-140 fits perfectly standing up. I liked the Everyday Messenger too, but felt it was too big. This one is far more suited to mirrorless systems.

First impressions after one day of heavy use. Pro: Superb build quality. Above and beyond anything else, even considering this is a handmade prototype. Sits slightly higher and in a more central position on my back, more comfortable to wear for longer periods than the Retrospective. Water repellent to a good degree, which came in handy in a shower yesterday. The Retrospective would have been completely soaked. Con: Looks modern and utilitarian, if you're looking for a hipster bag, this is not it. Still slightly too big for my taste, but I never travel with a tablet. Those of you who do, will find the size just right. It fits a Surface Pro 3 with keyboard.

I received a review (protoype) copy of this bag yesterday. Full review will follow soon, currently too busy with the baby and all that. If you have questions about it you'd like answered, feel free to ask. I'll be testing it as my standard layover and travel bag and comparing it to the ThinkTank Retrospective 5. The Kickstarter is over, but you can still pre-order one here: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/peak-design/the-everyday-backpack-tote-and-sling

Indeed. On the X-T2 it's now leading to confusion as people set this to off all the time and then are surprised the camera is not giving them the exposure numbers, which if you think of it, is logical, since the camera only decides exposure upon taking the shot, no longer when half pressing the shutter.

Moisture yes, fungus no. And fungus is not something you want anywhere near camera equipment...

Hey, learning something every day is the best way to stay young :-) I try too. Cheers!

Shutter AE ON in the menu is the same as pushing ae-l. Ae-l can be forced via the ae-l button, or set to default on at half pressing the shutter button. Both are ways to lock the exposure, thus giving you the exposure settings. If you switch it off in the menu and you don't push ae-l before taking a shot, you will obviously not get a shutter speed, because the camera has not locked the exposure settings and will only decide on the exposure when you fully press the shutter button, taking into account which metering mode and exposure compensation is set.

Yes, this. Also, I asked this in the other topic on this too, why did you swith off AE-L to begin with? It's default is on if I recall correctly. AE-L off is something I only recommend you switch off if shooting sports or wildlife and for some reason you are shooting with shutter speed at auto. For everything else, best to leave it on.

I had a freezing while using the WiFi connection to transfer photos to my phone. It took quite long, then my phone lost connection and I got an error message saying the file could not be transferred. That's where the whole camera froze and I had to pull the battery. It seems like a script error in a browser to me, where suddenly something goes wrong and the system won't reset itself or revert to default function. No grip, standard X-T2 battery, 2 times SanDisk UHS-II 64gb.

May I ask why you switched off ae-lock in the first place? I know many do this because they read somewhere that "it's recommended", but I find it quite the opposite. Unless you are shooting prolonged bursts of moving subjects or rapidly changing lighting conditions, I suggest you keep this on. You can always switch it off if you find yourself shooting those subjects, but afterwards I'd always put it back to on. I think the whole "this is recommended" thing comes from sports or wildlife shooters who most likely will want to keep this off most of the time. But for all other shooting needs, I fail to see the benefit. (same goes for backbutton focus, try giving your camera to a stranger and having to explain bbf to them...).

The whole point of exposure lock on or off, is that the exposure is locked or not. If it's not locked, logic dictates that the camera cannot give you a shutter speed...

There's a market for everything, and we don't all need to like everything new or old.

A properly maintained and cleaned and played lp, should not scratch or hiss. Sadly, that was a side effect of the masses not knowing how to properly care for an lp record...

Beautiful

Good tips! Thanks!