Tom H.

Good to know, I already own it, but I am also waiting for the updates now that I have an X-T2.

Don't you need to switch on "shoot without lens" in the user menu for that?

I'm lucky enough to still have an xpan for those moments when I yearn for something like an X-Pro :-)

Zebras are dashed indications in real time of the overexposed parts. Usually user definable to say 70%, 80%, 90% or 100%. They are very useful in shooting video but also stills, to make sure you don't overexpose part of your image. I used it a lot in portraits, to judge hotspots on skin. So far, on fuji cams, you only get it as an option after the image is taken.

We do need zebras, yes. Live, at all times if needed by the user.

Nice job! I would love an X-Pro 2 for the looks, but I do have glasses and am left eye dominant, so X-T2 makes way more sense, so I'll stick with the logical choice ;-)

For new users of C1, please be aware that the X-T2 is not yet supported, but I'm sure an update will be along shortly. There is a workaround to this by renaming your camera meta tag to X-Pro 2.

I have SanDisk UHS II 64gb cards and so far, no freezes. It's odd that SanDisk cards are specifically mentioned in the manual as being tested on the camera.

Vsco comes pretty close too, if you're using lightroom. Buy Nik is free, so try that first.

I'll take a stab at it later this week if someone else hasn't yet by then.

There are several manual focus assists available on the Fuji cams. Peaking, magnify, and split screen are the most useful. You can use them all together too. You can set the cam to automatically punch in on the focus square when manually focusing, and you can put the focus anywhere in the frame.

I only have 4 lenses. Least used is split between 16 1.4 and 50-140, but just because I tend to stick with one lens for generic shooting and for those purposes, 35 and 56 are better suited. As far as least liked goes, that honour goes to the 56 apd because it will occasionally completely miss focus without reason.

It's to lock the shutter button to avoid inadvertently taking a shot. The X-T1 had the same lock system.

On a portrait shoot today, I did notice it get slightly warm after using it for 2 hours. Never noticed that with my X-T1. I was using the new battery.

Did a pregnancy boudoir shoot this morning. Took 356 shots on a single battery, and it's not even half empty. But I don't chimp and don't take long to frame my shots. The moment I lower my camera, I switch it off. When I want to take another shot, I raise it and turn it on. It's so fast, it's on anyway by the time it's near my face. It's a habit, you get used to working that way very quickly.

There are plenty of threads on the forum, and most specify which camera was used for the shot (at least I do). Creativity never depends on gear though. I'm always open to critique and questions. Cheers.

I'm happy to report that on the X-T2, the camera plate no longer blocks the battery compartment, for those who should be interested.

Cool stuff

I've used my old batteries from the X-T1 and Wasabi clones as well. All without issues.

Hybrid Viewfinder. It's expensive and very complex, hence why only Fujifilm is the only manufacturer who makes one. The other specs are not that far apart in cost.

Only offbrand lens I own that equals my Fujinons in sharpness, is my Zeiss 120mm F4 for my Hasselblad 503cw.

I stopped touching my em1, when I was given an X100T. The files will blow you away if you're used to micro four thirds. The one thing I don't really miss is the ibis. It would be nice to have it someday, but I can do without. Can't say the focus on the xt2 is as fast as the Nikon, but it blows my old Canon dslr away, and that's good enough for me.

Weird, can't find that Nikon menu on my Nikon FM2 or F4? What am I doing wrong???

I used to own a whole bunch of canon L lenses. My fujinons are way sharper and without aberrations, at half the size and while still being only "consumer grade"... I fail to see the point of that f1 aperture with perfect corners, except for bragging rights...

Both will do an excellent job, I shoot travel and portraits on the 35mm, it's the more versatile lens if you want to shoot portraits as well. For anything else except portraits, 23mm would be my choice. For environmental portraits, 23mm was never wide enough for me. I ended up using the 16mm for those.