Tom H.

Second fotomeyer, I sometimes walk by their shop to see what second hand gear they have in stock. They are friendly and knowledgeable.

Peak design has a new kickstarter for a new sling bag. It might be just what you're looking for. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/peak-design/the-everyday-backpack-tote-and-sling

35, either version will do fine.

Have you asked whoever insures your other stuff?

1. Don't buy stuff you don't need. 2. If I need something, the need will last several years or longer. 3. Hence, I throw the boxes away immediately. I'm not a hamster.

The cheapest option is just to place more distance between your subject and your background. Even at f4, you'll get plenty of bokeh that way. Also, bokeh can be nice on occasion, but don't use it as a crutch. Be mindful of the background first, and only then focus on your subject when taking a portrait.

Third party ones are even better than the original ones is my experience. Get them cheap on eBay and buy some spares.

As a professional traveller, what I look for is: Rugged material, resistant to scratches or should look well when aged. So fabric or leather. Sturdy seams. If a seam fails, everything might fall out. It should at no point look like a camera bag, nor should it look expensive. This only makes it a target. It should not be too easy to open. I keep my camera on a strap the whole day, unless I'm sure I don't need it. The bag is for stowage only. If should be small and fold flat when not in use, so I can squeeze it into my usually very full suitcase. Currently the bag that fits that purpose is my think tank retrospective 5. I did remove all the padding and I removed the shoulder pad. I may add one of those peak design backpacks next year, after their kickstarter is over, for when I need to haul more.

I strap my x100t to my back with my peak design slide. It fits snug and stays in place. Never take a bag.

The difference was made when lighting your subject. Marochow is a master of soft light. Yours is taken in hard light and I see patches of hotspots all over the face. No amount of photoshop will get you what you need. Learn lighting first. It will help you see natural light better too. Start with One Light 2.0 by Zack Arias. Best workshop I know and very cheap for what it is.

I've always used lightroom. Never stopped me.

Walk around, the ruined buildings make for beautiful scenery. Have lunch or cocktails at Buddha Bar. I really like Mazel Tov for late evening dinner and drinks. http://mazeltov.hu/en

I put the camera in B&W in difficult light, helps me to better see interesting contrast and light. Buy I always shoot in raw and convert in post.

Unfair is my middle name... :-)

Dag Marleen! Welkom en groeten uit Diest :-)

Summer in Vienna... X-T1 & XF35/2

Beautiful updates!

Abel, for Flag Models. Fujifilm X-T1, XF35/2 and one Cactus RF60.

Both shot on the X-T1 and XF 35 f2, which is fast becoming my ultimate travel lens.

Abel, for Flag Models. Fuji X-T1 and XF 35 f2. One speedlight, a MagMod grid and a quarter CTO gel.

I have 2 Cactus RF60's and triggers, some small softboxes and a beauty dish. I will also shoot it with some MagMod modifiers, which I adore. The X100T has a leaf shutter, that allows me to shoot straight into the sun at daytime with just a speedlight. Good light does not need to be expensive. I keep mine portable. But if there is available light, I'll use that too.

Went to Berlin for a few days, shot all of the following images with the X-T1 and 35 f2 (except for one shot on the X100T and one with the 16 f1.4). See the link for the whole story, too many images to post here. http://www.tomhenderix.com/blog/2016/5/19/berlin-in-pictures I always travel light, but since this was strictly r&r with my wife, I wanted to go even lighter, hence no bag and only the cam with one lens. The new 35 is lovely, I never missed a wider aperture, not even shooting in low light. And while I love my X100T, I prefer the controls of the X-T1. A beautiful piece of engineering that new 35, equal to the 16 in every way, and hopefully the new standard for all Fujinons to come.

10-24 if you're into landscapes primarily is a no-brainer. And 24mm is great for street photography and general use. Add one more fast prime and you're good to go. Less is usually more when travelling...

Preview exposure may need to be off, otherwise you'd only see your ambient setting, thus your EVF/screen could be nearly black. I have this mapped to a Fn button, I use it a lot on and off. Makes sense not to dive into menus each time. Flash setting, depending on your camera, but at least on commander or remote or whatever it's called. Drive mode and electronic shutter may need to be off (X100T) White balance, 5600K obviously. ISO 200 and sync speed probably, unless you need ambient light. Aperture for whatever dof you require. Adjust strobe power accordingly to fine tune. But since you have expensive lights, you probably know all this already I hope.

What flash cord are you using, they don't all work? There is some useful info here http://photomadd.com/off-camera-ttl-flash-with-the-fuji-x-series/