sacherjj

The 4 vs 3 letters was with sRGB vs AdobeRGB, if I remember correctly. I think I put a difference name for each of them.

IBIS can matter to people if it is something they never use, but have to pay for to get the body. For a serious video platform, you either need stabilized fast primes or IBIS.

Do you miss the expose for highlights of the D810. I've never used a D810, but this mode seems like a great idea that should be possible with firmware on the Fuji.

I agree. I should have posted that my X-T1 was a demo model for just over $600. You should be able to get a grip for $125. Wasabi batteries for $23 for 2. I've seen tons of eBay X-T1 in good condition for under $700. Or with an 18-55 for a decent price. The first package would be a good deal if a lens was also included. I won't shoot Fuji or Nikon batteries, because they are not worth 4x the cost of Wasabi. So they don't have a value for me.

I went the used/demo X-T1 route. This is my first Fuji X camera. But I have been doing research about it for 6 months. I will receive my first Fuji lens (60mm for both macro and portraits) tomorrow. (Actually, my first WORKING Fuji lens. Shoot, did I just jinx this one too?) The main reasons I chose the X-T1 over the X-T10: View finder size. It is much larger. This is a big difference. Vertical grip option. I'm a vertical grip shooter. The comfort is worth the weight for me. Also the extra battery is important for long sessions or event photography. The body of the X-T1 is a little more solid. All of these made it a no brainer for me. I WANT the X-T2, but that is outside of my price range at this time, until I decide to get back into professional work. Then the X-T1 will be a great backup/second lens body. I buy used when I can. I had my first problem with the XC50-230 lens. The OIS guts are broken. But I'm returning and getting a refund. I'm out shipping back. Compared to all the money I have saved with used lenses, I'm way ahead. I've purchased a Nikon D5100, D7000 used. Both still work great, although I have had to epoxy my D7000 back together after a bad fall. (It and the 80-200 AF-D f/2.8 tank still work great.)

Is the back element of the 1.4x converter perfectly flat?

If you have a smartphone, another alternative is to use the app to push geodata to the pictures. Now you don't need folders, as you have the data of where it was taken in the file. I really wish more cameras had embedded GPS for this.

Wonder if that is heat related. Have you tried an immediate frame from a cold camera (one that has been off for a long while).

Fixed with the X-T2. I'm curious if it is fixed with the X-T1. I don't have my 18-55 yet to try it out. I hope so. The wobble above 35mm is really disappointing in other videos I've seen on the X-T1.

I really don't understand the question. Flash sync is driven by the time that the shutter can be fully open. Because flash duration is very short, it will freeze the shutter. So the first shutter has to fully open, then the flash fire, then the second shutter close. Otherwise you get shadows on the frame caused by it being covered by the shutter. This is a limitation of shutter design and physics. With a aperture style shutter, like the leaf shutter on the X100, the flash comes through evenly across the frame at any speed that there is an opening (similar to MF cameras).

USB Charging is actually somewhat of a complex thing. The issue is with the USB consortium not building power profiles until after they were being used. And the desire of some hardware designers not wanting to require digital negotiation before power output. Apple's USB interface uses a resistor voltage divider on the D+ and D- data lines to pull them to various voltages. They have setups for a few currents as iPhones and iPads required different charging currents. Most USB connections can provide up to 500 mA of current. The max is around 2.1A of current for proprietary setups, but this is right on the edge of what microUSB plugs will handle without melting. The USB standard tops out at 1.5A for dedicated power ports. The more common standard was shorting D+ and D- together at the charger. The device connects one side to ground and the other with a high resistance to 5V. If the pulled high line is grounded, then they know it is connected to a power port and it charges. If you plug a device into a computer or Xbox, you will get a 500 mA trickle charge. You might also get less if the device doesn't recognize the power supply's digital line negotiation (although most provide 500mA regardless now, since too many devices don't negotiate due to cost of manufacture). USB3 moved to 900 mA for the devices like computer's USB port. However, if you plug USB3 into a USB2 port, you are limited to that 500 mA USB ports are protected with heat based resettable fuses. PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) fuses will increase resistance dramatically when past a certain current, to block flow and keep from melting power traces to the USB. So if a device tries to get too much power from a computer port, the power will be cut off. After the PTC cools, power flow will be possible again. Until USB-C, USB was always 5V and there is no danger (other than slow or no charging) in using chargers with other devices. USB-C now allows a much higher voltage to get more power into laptops and such (up to 100W instead of the USB 10W). The worse case of using a different charger is that through incompatibility, you will be limited to a 500mA charge and take 3 times as long. For certain devices (like iPads and larger tablets) they might refuse to charge altogether with a limited power supply. This is due to issues with slow charging lithium and plating that occurs to lower capacity. Photography is my part time job. Designing hardened tablets for missionary work is my full-time job.

Ah, I upgraded to version 12, but hadn't looked at the company much since then. I remember when Sony bought them, but didn't realize they were sold. For many people, the Vegas Studio is enough video editor.

I think the only way they would not be compatible is a max aperture change to the lens (causing a filter diameter change.)

24 MP is a 22.5% increase in linear dimensions over 16 MP. This gives you the freedom of cropping in about 1/4 with no penalty. But it also means that the print that has the same resolution is only 22.5% taller or wider. It isn't a huge difference. That doesn't mean I don't still want an X-T2.

I use manual flash on Nikon and the same inexpensive YN560-TX and flashes work well with my X-T1. Never been a TTL fan, nor all the flashing needed for Nikon's optical system. I've always been DX Nikon. I thought for a while that the D750 was my dream body. While I haven't tried one yet, I'm guessing that it will actually be the X-T2. I still waiting for my first Fuji lens to arrive, but I've already seen all the advantages shooting my AF-D and non-AI Nikkor glass with an adapter. I can't wait for smaller AF lenses. Financially, I won't have a 100-400 for a while. I'll miss my Sigma 150-600. Seeing images as they will be, before you even take them. That is more powerful than anything I'll miss.

I'd love to see WiFi FTP capability as well. It seems like WiFi isn't allowed while shooting is going on though. The only partial solution I found with the X-T1 is Windows only and kind of hacky. XT1Move. Just a small app that someone wrote to use the camera folder structure on Windows.

While the mic changed to a 3.5mm, Fuji's site shows 2.5mm remote connector in the specs. My guess is it would still work.

I really wonder how fast they can read that shutter. A sensor that size (both physical size and pixel count) is going to take a while to read out. If this is a great deal slower than the APS-C sensor in the X-T2, your rolling shutter is going to be much worse.

While this is an old thread, I see nothing on here talking about the Nikon version of the YN560-TX. I find it works perfectly on my X-T1. I can shoot in CH mode and get flashes at 8 fps through all my groups (assuming I set the power on the YN560-III and -IV flashes low enough to let them recharge.) It seems either Canon or Nikon models work fine.

With electronic shutter eliminating the mechanical wear penalty of time lapse, it would be amazing to capture some long and smooth time lapses. My 64 GB SD card can fit almost 10k Fine JPEGs. Then I see the 999 shot limit. This is just dumb. I've found some subject matter that looks jittery if you spread out more than 2 seconds per shot. That gives you a whole 33 minutes of realtime. Almost useless for time lapse. I don't understand the limit. Enough screen space for the UI. Implement it with one digit scrolling like the time. It would take a whole 4 more bits to store the value. Which is free because they are already 16 bit intergers already, I'm sure. The only thing I can figure is that Fuji wanted to limit the exposure count in case someone is using mechanical shutter. But you could force electronic to be enables to unlock the higher digit or something. Running electronic shutter gives you such a wide range of exposures that you can have a great full sun through night transition with 1/32000 through 1 sec of exposure. Is there any way to get past the 999 limit of shots without resorting to an external device?

Well, I got it today. No Fuji glass yet. I tried a few years ago to shoot with my Dad's old Nikkor-N 24mm f/2.8, just after he passed. Never really could focus it on my Nikon DX viewfinders without split prisms. I'm loving the focus peaking. You can't beat the action on older Nikkor MF glass. Of course, I got a real Mirrorless introduction with checking the battery and seeing 3 bars. So I decided not to charge before going for the walk at lunch. After 6 shots later and 10 minutes, red battery and shut down trying to shoot shot #7. I was really surprised to see Fuji only connecting to +/- on the battery in the X-T1. No connection to thermistor or "S" as is listed on the Wasabi battery I received with my Demo model. Usually, the 4th connection is a one wire gauge. With battery heat as the reported factor in X-T2 4K making only 10 minutes without vertical grip, I hope they use this data on the X-T2. Pretty easy to route to a processor A/D input. Even multiplex all two/three batteries on the X-T(1/2) for periodic sampling. I did get to push the DR. Shot this image, saving the highlights. From what I was reading Nikon can pull a little more out of the highlights than Fuji. As opened in Lightroom: After +1.39 Exposure, -97 Highlights, +73 Shadows (Over pushed by a good bit, just to see what it will do.) The amazing thing is the noise is almost all luminance. No color noise in there. Definitely as good or better than my D7000. Same with D7100, but without the banding if you push too hard on the D7100 sensor. This is going to be fun.

What kind of waterproof case do you like for your camera in a kayak?

I use Sony Vegas. I've tried Premiere and it made me want to just stop editing video. You can get the lower end and it isn't too expensive. Great multitrack audio editor too.

I'm on Windows. So no ID software for me, until that fabled Windows version comes. By reading through some examples of how to Xtrans on Lightroom, I have it figured out. Just a different method of sharpening.

Been a DX Nikon shooter (D7100 and D7000) for paid portrait and event work. Part time work that is enjoyable and paid for more than equipment. I had an RX100 II for a while and loved having it with me, but hated shooting with it. Sold it a year ago and shot much less. I've tried an A6000 and some of the A7 bodies in the store and thought they were cool, but ergonomics seemed really weird. So I kept coming back to Fuji. And it seems like they finally nailed what I want with the X-T2. But I'm a marry lenses and rent bodies kind of guy. So I almost always buy a generation back. The X-T1 is the first generation back mirrorless that appealed to me. And my demo model from Adorama will be here next week. It took 15 minutes of trying it out to know I was going to be selling some glass and bodies. It might have also been the week of vacation that I carried a wide and tele 2.8 AF-D Nikkor lens pair around with me that made the difference too. I think I'll feel more free with a 27mm and 56mm to start. But I'm going to play with my AF-D glass with an adaptor for a little while to make sure on my focal lengths. And I want to force myself into MF for a while and get a good feel for it on the camera before falling back to AF. I've often wished for a split prism at times on my DSLR. Wish Fuji had the old, but good and cheap used lenses I've come to love in Nikon AF-D glass. But it may force me into fewer lenses and maybe all primes. And I've found that sometimes restrictions make for better photographs as you problem solve instead of zoom. We shall see. As I did with my RX100, I can really see the 27mm allowing me to force myself back into my Photo 365, that I actually enjoyed. (I also downloaded more than I care to count RAFs from X-T1 to try out in Lightroom and figure out how to work with X-Trans. I also installed X-T1Move for cabled tethering. I may already have a problem...) Does anybody want to trade a really nice D7100 for a 56mm f/1.2? (I'll throw in the vertical grip... )