darknj

As said before the XF 18 is a fine lens, my only issue with it is, it has less sharpness on the edges @F2.8 when compared to the kit lens 18-55 F2.8-4. The center sharpness is just as good, if not a tiny bit better. So if your edges are valuable to you, might be worth considering the purchase, if you don't care about edge to edge sharpness and just want something small, cheaper and nifty field of view, the XF 18 will be a perfectly fine lens.

Well the Face/eye auto focus feature does limite quite a lot of other features, specially in the AF-S mode, where if the Face Detection is enabled, you won't be getting any subject following. Also, if I recall correctly, on the X-T1, the Face Detection, also change the focus from phase to contrast based, which slows down the AF speed, on LM based lenses, it's ok, AF is still responsive enough, but anything slower, it really starts to struggles. Plus, I haven't heard/seen any fixes about the Eye Detection being confused with the closest/furthest eye. As far as I am concerned, I prefer to use a 3x3 focus area and move the group toward the face I need to focus on or reframe if needed.

Personally, I really like the Super Takumar 105mm F2.8 with a focal reducer, it really gives a smooth bokeh in my book. This exemple is about as unprocess as it can be: Super Takumar 105 F2.8

Refresh rate are limited to the type of connector used, here is a list of the maximum resolution along their refresh rate: VGA-1920x1080@70Hz DVI-2560x1600@60Hz HDMI-3820x2160@30Hz (Can reach 60Hz W/HDMI 2.0) Display Port-3820x2160@60Hz

Which version of the 50mm did you looked up ? Only the F4 is a macro lens and I stand corrected, it is a 1:2 macro, not a 1:1 as I thought. The 60 Fuji is supper annoying to use on AF when you start doing macro, the manual focus does help a lot better but the last 2 cm of close focus, the focus ring get super long, which is great for macro work, but completely unusable hand held, unlike the Nikkor 105mm F2.8 which is a 1:1 and remains all good in all conditions. The lens adapter should allow you to have 2 extra slots for personalized lenses, or is that part only on the X-T1 ?

There is hardly any distortion on the 10-24 F4 lens, it is very well controlled. I gave bee shooting with it on semi-regular basis and really don't have any issues with it. Plus, a lot of the modern raw file development programs are perfectly able to correct any of the left over distortion. As both poster above, stop caring about what other think and go for what you want, the only two advantages Canikon has over Fuji at the moment are the lenses selections, they have been making lenses for their camera for over 30 years for Canon and over 50 years for Nikon, kind of hard to compete against that when the XF mount just passed 5 years old some month ago. The second one is fast moving subjects with erratic movements, such as birds for example. At below ISO 6400 you will bit just as good as most of Canikon, above you will struggle a bit more as X-T10 native ISO caps at 6400, anything above that is going to be jpeg only files. If you are worried about the kit lens, don't, it is a perfectly fine lens for a starter photograher. For the speedlight, unless you really know what you are doing, I would not advise you to get one. Keep the money to the side for the moment and start learning your camera first, when you start to understand the limitation of your popup flash, then start looking for a speedlight, chances are, newer model will be released and old good ones could drop in prices. Comparing the a smartphone camera with anything with dedicated camera is surprising, it is akin asking if your 900 bicycle is better than a real motorbike. Long story short, pick what YOU want, don't hesitate to go to a camera store and ask to hold the X-T10 and manipulate it for a bit to see if it feels right in your hand and remember, have fun with it, it's just a hobby after all :]

Under the jacket or in the bag with WR lens on the body

If you don't mind legacy lenses, there is always the "lil' wonder" Super Takumar 50mm F4, it's a 1:1 macro lens, if memory serves me well. It is not that expensive and works flawlessly with dumb M42 adapter. And since it's a legacy lens, it's not focused by wires aperture is controlled on the lens like most of the Fujinon lenses.

That's weird indeed, the X-T1 did request those validation steps, since the X-T10 is a trimmed down version of the bigger brother, I assumed it would have the same behavior. But indeed, there seems to be absolutely no security settings on the X-T10 except turning it on or off on the camera and connect with the right app.

That kind of depend what is the value of the lens "parking" spot, some lenses stay wide open, other stay as the same aperture as it was last time it was connected to camera body. Best way to double check is to try it out and see if the blades stays open or not when removed from the Sony body. But without any electronic connector, you won't be able to change the aperture on the lens.

The WiFi is secured, the first time you connect to it, you are asked to key on your smart device the last few digits of the camera serial. And even if someone is able to track you physically around, find the exact moment you are enabling the WiFi on the camera to connect to it, you still have a visual confirmation of the device that is going to connect to your camera and need to validate that request where the device name is shown. Is that a 0% possibility ? No, it is not, but it is something that is pretty rare/difficult for it to occur. Worst case scenario, they will have a copy of your pictures, and even they are connected, you still have to send the picture manually from the camera, you can not just siphon everything without you agreement on both the device AND the camera.

Chances are it is not going to fit at all, I mean just look at both camera physically, the X-Pro2 is clearly larger in all directions.

OIS doesn't affect it only your own body movement as your take the picture while on Electronic shutter. Stay still and it will be a lot less pronounced or keep using the mechanical shutter, but do take note that your speed will be capped at 1/4000 of a sec.

Have you considered some legacy lenses ? The only down side is the manual focusing, but that aside, they are relatively small, cheap and have what you want as field of view. Or just get the XF 60, it's small enough, AF is fast enough for streets and not that expensive at all.

Even if I know about Fuji's mentality toward their customer, it still pleases me greatly to read sentences like: "... it’s ridiculous for us to ask customers to upgrade every two years or so." I deeply enjoy their ideology toward their customers and their dedications. True, their camera might not have all the features other manufacturers have but they are so good at what they do it is rather hard to critique them for that.

The 10-24 is really well corrected, have been using it for almost 6 months now, really nothing wrong about it. Kind of wished it could be WR, but I am being here.

I use clear filters on my important lenses, those I cannot go without. But for more specialised lenses like the 60mm macro I don't really bother

Yes, if you lower the quality of a Jpeg file and export it again with a lower quality level it is going be degraded and the more you do it, the worst it will become. As for the sharpening in Lightroom, it works somewhat on a Jpeg file, but since you don't have access to all the pixels data, the software is going to guess its course of action, which can be detrimental at tomes. Straight out of camera, you can adjust it directly from the menu to your flavor, I usually tone it down as I don't like the camera's engine over sharpening the output, I would rather have a softer look than the contrary. Then again, your personal taste might/will disagree with me. In an ideal world, those settings shouldn't stay fixed, you are to move them around depending on your need, subject, taste, ambiance,... It took me several weeks before I got a balance in the Jpeg output for noise, sharpness,... settings to suit my taste. And even then, I make changes to them on the spot from the Q menu if I need to do so. Then again, I shoot raw, so a lot of these considerations are overshadowed as I can change them whenever I want. I keep the Jpeg files just in case I need to quickly share them or print them out on the Instax SP1 printer.

The general public doesn't go to camera shops to buy their cameras, they are usually get them in malls or places like MediaMarkt. I was in a small imaging event a couple of weeks ago in Brussels, I was at the Fuji booth to give the X-Pro2 a try and a lady walked over asking about the zoom capabilities of the X100T, the Fuji representative tried his best to explain it was a fixed lens, thus no zooming. That lady was baffled at the idea of having a small camera that does not zoom. As laughable it is for us, for her, the whole concept of fixed lens is just incredibly stupid and she couldn't understand why ppl were buying that camera and that it was even the third generation of it.

I can give you a small example for this case. Let's say I do street photography and bag X is sturdy for me as I can put a camera with a single lens and a small tripod in there along some other small things. Is that bag going to be sturdy enough for someone who does wildlife ? Or extreme sport shooting ? Chances are, it isn't going to be. We all have different needs, some of us prefer more padding, other would rather have less padding and more inner space, while that group over there prefers lots of pockets. So yes, in that respect, it really depends on the usage and need.

Agreed, but the forum user is already quite a step away from the generic "point and shoot" users. Plus, we both have acquaintances that are either somewhat knowledgeable about photography or get influenced by our experiences. Even my son can tell when a shot is slightly out of focus because he watches me deal with it on semi regular basis.

Maybe because there wasn't a big market for it ? The X-E series sold very well in some asian countries like Thailand, where a lot of the younger and trendy ppl where using it. It was rather difficult not to see one of them every now and then. The X-T1 is still kind of pro level camera, you really need to know what you are doing to fully operate it, if you aren't willing to spend the time to learn photography, the simpler, and still very good, X-E1/2 fits the bill very correctly.

Well, they don't have anything for the X-T1, so meh... >.>

That's normal, it's the same thing with the 18-135 lens, it's the Linear Motor that is in action. On an older thread we discussed about the LM engine in the lens, it does make some sounds, but not that badly audible for anyone else than the person holding the camera and doesn't affect the quality of the produced image. At least not on any perceptible level on both the 18-55 and 18-135 lenses. Apparently turning the OIS off does lessen a bit the sound of it, but it doesn't really turn it off completely. There are also some speculations about the lens draining a bit more power, I haven't seen anything to confirm that as I get steadily over 300 shots on the X-T1 using Patona batteries and around 320-350 with Fuji's own batteries before seeing the dreadful red battery icon.

Somehow, I knew it was in India even before reading the article.