darknj

It is still a digital zoom, the sensor can not just create non existing data out of nowhere. It might be sharper than just a crop but it still the same thing. I call a cat, a cat and I have a hard time to buy into their marketing talk of selling us a digital cropping camera. Now if by some mean of unknown witchcraft they are able to crop a good chunk of the image out and still retain the same 16MP count they basically have created one of the most impressive sensor ever made on this planet and I don't understand why they wouldn't be using it in all their camera.

Technically they would need to release the X-T2 first before releasing a replacement/follow up of the X-T10. But I do concur that the X-E2S doesn't seems to be making a lot of sense, even marketing wise, unless it is being targeted at some Asian countries like Thailand where the smaller X-A series is having quite a large success, maybe something to bring those market to a bit higher more complex cameras ? I don't know, it sounds far fetched even as I say it myself. While I do not like the range finder look I would still find it disappointing to have the X-E series being discontinued, diversity is always good for choices.

Alright, let's play your game with math then. We will just assume the X and Y axis and avoid the Z thickness. The X-T1 is 120mm by 90mm, so if we were to shift the numbers around a bit, we would be getting some 105mm x 105mm, which is a nice little square. But even with all that, we still don't have any more room to add the extra battery. We might be able to get another set of button but where are you going to fit that battery without enlarging the body ? Alright, let's just add 10mm more to both axis and believe that is plenty enough to add an extra battery, now we are sitting at 115mm by 115mm, if I look back at my orignal number (120 x 90), we are 5mm less than the original length already while being over 10% taller. Even if we were to keep the 105mm size on both axis I wish you the best of luck to find a bag that will accommodate with the square shape. A lot of the current bags are made for rectangular shaped camera bodies. I have access to a D3S camera on regular basis and trust me, there aren't much bag to easily transport it with a lens attached. Once you are ready to shoot, you have to take it out hanging on a strap or keep it in your hand. It might be good for an hour but if you have to walk around in a city for street shooting or even a wedding, this is going get really annoying really fast. Let's go a step further and also add the Z to the equation now, which brings us to 120mm x 90mm x 46mm, that's roughly 500cm cubic. Again, let's go they are able to squeeze the same volume, we will be a lot tighter now it's going to be 90mm by 90mm for both X and Y axis, but the Z depth is going to increase to 61.5mm, that's a good 30% increase in thickness already and really close of the thickness of a Nikon D5500 and still no secondary battery, which would add more thickness making it close to the thickness of a D610, the smallest of the the FF Nikon camera. With that 90x90 form factor, the camera will be very difficult to hold, it's close of being a loaf of bread of half a kilogram already without any lenses and with quite a consequent thickness to it... Sorry but I really do not find that appealing in anyway.

Yes it does, so do the Nikon flashes.

That is very possible, since I haven't handled the 23mm that often I wouldn't be certain of its out of focus parts. And it makes for me try to compare it to the 35mm F1.4 neither. Have some more tests and see if that bothers you, if it does, send it back in under warranty saying that you strangely noticed the out of focus area and feign ignorance when asked about the fall, that MIGHT work.

Unless you REALLY need that extra stop of light and some slight sharpness at the edges, I would pick the 18-55 over the 16-55. I can live with that stop less of light at the far end but having to carry extra weight can be really annoying really fast. Plus I am super spoiled by the OIS from my 18-135 and I would hate to lose that on "standard zoom range" lens.

It looks so to me, although the fall shouldn't have been that bad, unless it was an over 5 feet (1,5m) fall. But if the lens cap was pushed inside, it really is not a good thing for the front element of the lens. I would certainly try to send it in and claim innocence about the fall.

All this while keeping the APS-C sensor won't be possible, there is a physical limitation of what can be put inside of a box that small and still make it usable, just have a look at some internal video of the X-Pro1, that thing barely has any left over room for anything and it has already an hybrid view finder, all the controls are also there and still need to put inside a battery to power everything. Also, please don't take it as some form of bashing but I am a believer of consistency, if you don't like the idea of a large X series body, why still chase around that integrated battery grip body ? I mean the bodies are small enough and light enough to not be that annoying to shoot vertically. If you truly wish for something chunkier to hold on, witch I can perfectly understand from an ergonomic point of view, maybe taking a mirrorless camera isn't the best system for you ? My father in-law who has been a protog for over 40 years now has such large hands that anything smaller than a D3S is too small form him, if I pass him over my X-T1 he holds it like he is going to break by looking at it too hard, while I wonder how he is able to juggle all that weight single handed while being 30 years my senior. So yes, not everyone can use a DSLR nor can every use mirrorless equally well.

I have no issues with that part of the test. I mean Fuji X series has been known of AF speed issues, it would be rather silly from Fuji to not address that weakness spot, specially after boasting a fastest AF speed ever from the X-T1...

Meh... as much as I like Fuji I can not help but feel this test is far from being something worth considering. I mean we all know the AF speed is really dependent on the lens used. The best AF body would need the best lens. Also why even with a crappy body you can still get wonderful pictures as long as you are using good lenses, while the other way around is far from being true. And lesnumeriques are well known for being pretty arrogant people that will shun you out if you tend to disagree with them. Until I get it in my own hands to compare to known settings, I wouldn't trust too much anything I read about the AF speed.

Most often on XF lenses, I am on AF-S with 3x3 zone focus, focus priority instead of release, auto ISO capped at 3200 and on Provia film simulation but at DR200. When AF-C is used, it's roughly the same with the focus priority changed to release. And on legacy lenses, M mode with single point and speed dial on T

I asked a colleague who had the lens on a Sony body and from what he told me: The lens is good construction and the aperture ring clicks rather nicely. The focus ring is long and rather smooth but full open it is really a nightmare to shoot wide open, it is really super easy to miss the focus if you or your subject moves a bit too fast. Very precise eye/hand coordination is needed. Also from the pictures I could look at, the lend will be softer than the XF 56 1.2. But if you plain on using it mostly in a studio it wil' be a perfectly fine replacement for the fuji lens

I am afraid you are asking the wrong thing at the wrong place. Not many of us here are interested in giving specific classes about using the features of a camera. You have plenty of other media for that purpose. The manuel being one of them, YouTube being another one and general browsing the Web is plenty too. Nonetheless I wish success in your endeavour.

The Nikon D500 is one heck of a tough cookie to chew at, the specs are really impressive and we all know that at low ISO, there is almost no differences between all the manufacturer, the new X-Trans sensor native ISO is 12800 while the D500 is two stop further away. Coupled with the very impressive buffer and a Nikon D5 level of AF in an APS-C body, I am really not certain that going after that with the current guessistimate specs of the X-T2 is going to be wise. Also, the D7200 is not even a year old, it is still a very solid camera, chunkier than Fuji, but at half the price of the X-Pro2. Now about the IQ, we will have to wait until April-May before real reviews are done on the RAW file of the D500 before we start comparing the details and rendering.

The X-T1 also suffer the same issue but mostly because of the standard eyecup, if you change it to the optional one, things improve drastically. The X-T10, sadly, does not have that optional eyecup and plus I don't find it as comfy as the one on the X-T1 when compared to the standard one. The X-T1 EvF is more roomy, physically and the rubber feels a lot smoother to put against your eye. I have had several events under very bright sun, ISO 400 speed at 1/4000 of a sec closed down to F5.6 kind of bright. With the standard eyecup, it's manageable, I had to bump the brightness of the EvF by one step but that was about it. With the long eyecup I can leave it as default value and not even feel bothered at any point.

Meh... I wouldn't like it, at all. I really like how "small" my X-T1 is and if I really need the extra juice I can add the battery grip, but to be forced to have it on at all times, I really wouldn't like it and would simply skip that update even if all the new bells and whistles would be on it. Ergonomics are more important than features for me.

Can you keep me up just in case ? An X-E2 with a 35 F2 could be interesting for me. Still pondering about a second body for my wedding event in April.

Psst... A katana only has edge on one side, it doesn't cut both ways like a longsword would. Again, I am going to play the devil's advocate here but is the X-E2 a bad camera ? I mean really look at it. Is it really THAT bad ? The FW would have made it better, agreed. But that camera isn't bad in any way, takes in all the XF lenses and is doing great with the pictures IQ. Plus, the difference between X-E2 and X-T10 is "mostly" form factor. The way I see it: - Range finder like line, with X-ProX being the top of the line, the X-EX being the middle range. - DSLR like, With X-TX at the top of that line and the X-TXY being the middle range. If you objectively look at the differences between the X-Pro2 and X-T1 is just fancy ergonomics and 8 MP more, the rest is really just plain "meh".

Keep it under the jacket, I don't mean in the otter layer but really between the body and jacket. It will be warmer there and you should be able to take some shots before you need to put it back there. Also, as you have read, the battery drain is a lot faster under cold condition, so you really really want to keep it warm.

I mean absolute no disrespect., but is there any specific reasons why you are staying with Fuji ? I mean, if I had as much issues as you have with my tools on paid assignment, I would have changed system already toward something that suits my working needs. Part of the reasons I have Fuji for hobby time and Nikon for the rest.

Luckily for me, I still don't. But I can get behind that, I tried to shoot with sunglasses a few time and it was super annoying to do the menu settings even with the optional long eyecup on the X-T1. I was still able to make do but mostly because I know my Q menu by heart now. Also, please accept my apologies for previous comment, I was not considerate enough to notice that you were wearing glasses. This isn't really Fuji's strong suit.

I can agree that it has slowed down a bit, but not by that much. I just have to press the button once to get into LCD + Eye Sensor mode, if speed is the essence, I will leave the camera on that state for the remaining of the event and just swap batteries more often or consider turning the camera off when there is a slow down in pace or swap back to Eye Sensor only. Also, what convention ? Nobody around has had a long career shooting digital DSLR, the system has been around a bit more than 16 years. I know boys who even had their first kiss at that age. But more seriously, it is not something that is affecting me much, I got used at navigating the Q menu directly from the EvF and keep the other eye open just in case something is happening. Is it convenient ? Not one bit! But I have seen worse from other manufacturers.

Also have the same issues on the X-T1, it's not that bad once you get used to press the eye sensor button to change from Eye Sensor + EvF only to directly Eye Sensor, make your changes, take your shot and press the sensor button 3 more times to have it on EvF only again. Part of my workflow now.

I also hate the ISO dial on the X-T1, but eventually I still got used to it. My workflow changed to adapt that silly dial. But yeah, I still don't know why they didn't made it clickable, press it once and you are on free roll ISO, press it again and you lock it down. I would have loved it so much more that way.

And mess up the shot if there is anything that moves during the manipulations. Your solution is nice only if doing landscapes and if the clouds are moving slowly too. Even my old Nikon D5000 can do +/- 2EV in 3 shots in less than a second for all 3 of them and it's over 6 years old. Once your camera is set to a tripod, the less manipulation you have with it, the less issues you will have.