darknj

I find it rather hard to believe sometimes, you seems to be in every thread or close to But yes I have seen your lens turbo test, I was still looking at the pictures to see differences and smaller details. Provided that everything goes well, tomorrow or Tuesday I will have my Helios too ^^

First of all, all those settings are only (mostly ?) applied to the jpeg output files. If you shoot RAW files, none of the above matters. And if you shoot jpeg directly, there are no one settings for all. You will need to change them on regular basis depending on your subject. Sometimes you will have more light, other times you want to keep the reflection on water (think of port cities). What I usually have is have the NR at 0 or -1 and Sharpening at around 0 or +1 depending on how bad it looks from the LCD. As for film simulation, I like Provia a lot but if there are a lot of colors and I want deeper night too, I swap to Velvia. Little side note, on the bracketing option, you can go for Film Simulation, just pick 3 of them that you like/want to try and take the shot. You will be rewarded with 3 jpeg files with each their own film simulation, kind of handy if you are unsure which one would come out the best for the scenery.

Not at all :] Active here ? You should really look at milandro's posting speed, sometimes I get the impression he lives inside the forum

That really depends on how far are you on the Photography road. I usually advise new comers to take either a FF (Full Frame) equivalent of 35mm (23 on Fuji) or 50mm (35mm is the closest we have). If you have had some shots before with your D90, you might already know what you would prefer. On any cases, if you are really just starting out take a prime lens, that means non zoom if you aren't familiar with the term. This way you will learn to compose your shot better and limitations are the best things for creativity. Even some pros can learn again if you take their zoom out and hand them a prime lens and tell them to go shooting. Or change the prime lens to another lens length to get them out of their comfort zone. And last but not least thing: Take pleasure in what you do. There are no need to it super seriously. It's a hobby, it should be fun for YOU. It doesn't matter if nobody else like what you do. But it is really important for you to enjoy it. Once you want to start getting much better, we can start being critical about the things. But really, keep in mind to have fun.

I know right ? I mean the camera isn't even released yet ! What will it be when they will get actually pictures from it !

Currently if you consider the top of the line from each of the Fuji Series, you really can't go wrong. X100T, still a marvelous camera that will take great picture and it's portability is really hard to compete against. The con of it, fixed lens. Portraiture work might not be the easiest of things with this one. X-Pro1, again, still a very solid camera. Due to the imminent release of the X-Pro2 camera, lots of stores have/had promotion for it and there are very nice combo/kits deals out there with the camera, I think I saw a 899€ deals for the X-Pro1 with 23 F1.4 and 27 F2.8, basically you would have paid for the 2 lenses and got the X-Pro1 for free. The con, well it's going to be "retired" in a matter of weeks now. X-T1/10, something a bit newer than the X-Pro1 and still keep all the benefit of swapping lenses. Either one will serve you well on 85% of all form of situations. X-Pro2, the soon to be top dog of Fuji until X-T2 gets announced about a quarterly afterward (if we trust the rumors). It will be much more technology advanced than the older siblings but will be also more expensive, rumors seems to be placing it at 1800€ body only. To have an idea of the price, the newest Nikon D500 will be 2000€ body only and the X-Pro2 looks laughable next of it on the specs... But we are shooting Fuji for other reasons than just pretty specs, otherwise we wouldn't be there. If you are one of those who's budget isn't an issue AND you know how it is to shoot with a rangefinder-like camera, go for the X-Pro2. If you are still learning the curves of Photography, either the X-T1 or X-T10 will be much better and cheaper starting points, both camera are really easy to learn photography with and still have enough technology inside to keep you going for several years before you feel the need to do some body upgrade. Now, if budget does get in the way, X-Pro1 is clearly a winner here. At this moment, it is cheap to buy and you will get nice lenses to begin your photography learning. Nonetheless, wait for for the X-Pro2 announcement first, if you plan on getting anything other than the X-Pro1, it won't change much, if any at all. And if you are considering the X-Pro1, price might get a bit lower too as some shops would really like to empty the stock of the old X-Pro1 and have more room for the newer camera.

1 to 3 sec should be ok but if you really want that silky smooth, you will need at least a 10 stop filter. If you do plan on getting one of them, please do consider your needs. 10 stops ND filters are expensive for a very good reasons, the color shifts from low quality filters can be very annoying to fix. On the scales of easily fixing in post production, blue is about the easiest to fix, green is getting annoying and if you see purple, then you are in very deep trouble. The more uniform the color shift the easier it is too. A good filter is about 160$ for a 10 stop from Lee, Singh-Ray, or any well known brands for ND filters. Again, do make sure you really want to do long exposure as part of your photography, not just something to try out. For fun, do it on night time and just make long exposure on a street with cars that passes by on regular basis. An example of what I did on the city a bit before new-year over a bridge, ISO 200, 25 sec @F16, no filters, there wasn't a need for that since it was fully dark:

If my math isn't wrong, on a broad daylight you can take the shot at ISO 200 and closed down F16, that should be around 1/60 of a sec. 3 stops down, that's around 1/8 of a sec. So yeah, anything longer than 1 sec would get you a completely white shot.

I personally do not like to use LR Clarity setting, specially when there is foliage, it usually mess up quite badly in there. Plus, LR plays kind of bad with RAF files on any version before 6.x. I had some major chromatic aberrations that were corrected by just upgrading versions.

Last thing I can think of is to check the shown information settings, if the level setting is enabled, disable it and try to enable it again and see how it goes

Just to be certain, are you using the regular eye cup or the long one ? The default one that comes with the X-T1 has a nasty habit of moving around and can sit in front of the eye sensor, which makes your camera thinks your eye is over there. It happened to me a couple of times before I noticed it and pushed the eye cup into the socket and kinda sorted out the issue.

Mine cost me like 25€ in raw materials and about 4 hours of fun time building it. I made it for the Nikon 1 AW1 since it doesn't have a hotshoe, so mine is mounted on the lens filter.

First thing first, make sure you are on Mechanical Shutter, not Mechanical + Electronic. Second point, try to be on single shot and make sure the speed doesn't go higher than 1/180, turn the dial and block it there if needed. As for the view mode, just press it again and it will be back on the back LCD instead of the view finder.

I made mine out of led lights, electric cable wiring and cut out blank CD. Had fun for a couple of week-ends, one to make it, the second to toy with it. Kinda fun but honestly, I don't have that much need for it.

It shouldn't be that bad, here is a shot I took handheld. Focus is on the nose:

I have also heard very good praise for the Super Takumar Macro 50mm F4 lens. It's rather cheap and produce nice contrasty pictures.

If I recall correctly the newest 4.20 FW should allow you to do that, as long as you are on mechanical shutter and not faster than 1/180 of a sec and silent mode needs to be deactivated.

Meh... Tell me about it... Now I want a Nikon D500 >.>

I don't think that could be an issue, jabecker85 was perfectly able to nail a sharp shot on the Canon with a 85mm F1.8 on FF camera where DoF is shallower. Or just about as much from a F1.2 cropped format. But a good point is raised, where was the focus set on those test shots ?

XF 18-135 ! My most favorite lens when I am unsure for what to pack But on your case, I would rather use just the X100T and the converters, that should good enough.

Normally, just turning the back dial should be sufficient to get into Aperture mode, just make sure you didn't go to far and ended into Auto mode for the Aperture.

Ergh... sorry but that camera bag looks ugly to me... I still prefer the Hermes straps.

Went there, most of the time it's just really bad stuff and every single time I went to search something, there was no hit. evilBay is maybe evil, but at least it searches quite far and wide if I need to.

While living in Belgium, my dutch is pretty much non existent... So I was not able to tap into the neighbor country and had one shipped from Ukraine. It has a bit of oil on the aperture blades but the price was around 27€ including shipping.

The leather straps from Hermes, I can get behind that. It's a small touch that adds a bit of fashion to it. It's nicely done too and nothing super obvious. I kind of like that. The camera bag is "okay". I have seen a woman's hand purse priced at 15.000€... That's almost the price of Leica M9 Titatnium edition... FOR A FREAKING PURSE ! >.<