darknj

Agreed :] But I really do get your point of view, but that heavy combo is quite interesting for low light moving subject, something that is currently very difficult on a Fuji system. In good light, Fuji all the way. The IQ is at the very least just as good, if not better, the whole gear is lighter and smaller, plus I grew quite fond of the Fuji film simulation. Anyway, I will wait for the Fuji X-T2 before I make any final judgement, but unless Fuji can provide me with a workhorse that can take quite the abuse, I will have to add the D500 to my set of tools.

Oh I am more than fully aware of the weight, but for comparison sake, there is nothing else on the market currently like that. Yes it's bloody heavy and goes only on Canikon, but can not tell me that you having one stop of extra light on a zoom, on ranges that are actually useful to have, does not at least intrigue you. Heck yes it's going to be the weight of a truck, but for the usage I would have of it. Sure, I would take it. Is it going to replace my Fuji gear ? Quite not so, but it is certainly going to complement it at places where the Fuji is failing me for the uses I have of it. Plus one very appreciable advantage of the D500, with a WR lens, like the Nikkor DX 16-80 F2.8-4, I really won't be afraid of any weather conditions, which is a big plus for me. Fuji WR on the X-T1 is nice, but it's not at the level I am used to with D800 and D3S level for professional work. This week-end will be the first time I am going to take a paid work with Fuji and not have any of my Nikon FF as backups.

Agreed here, except if you look outside of Canikon lenses, into Sigma for example, you have a DX format zoom th 18-35 F1.8, sure it's heavy as a truck and just as big, but F1.8 zoom ?! And they are going to release the 50-100 F1.8 version in late Q2 of this year. With these zooms, you have "primes" quality bokeh wise and add the zoom practicality too boot. I love my Fuji gear, but that's the kind of lens on a D500 that makes my head turn around a good deal...

Maybe they want the 70mm (105mm equiv) 1:1 macro lens ? It would make sense to me.

You can use whatever for strobist stuff, I have an old sb800 and sb600 and both are triggering all fine with wireless triggers. As for streets, depends on your needs, again if you don't mind manual controls, then anything that can be triggered would work fine. If you need TTL, there are suddenly a lot less choices around.

It does not, the notice on the Nissin i40 clearly states so too.

I don't buy them on Amazon but from my local camera shop, it's basically a plastic bag with holes for the lens and it is transparent enough to use the LCD for composition and then let's pray that I put my focus point at the right place when taking the shot Yeah, I basically hate using them... >.> Umbrella + X-T1 and WR lens is good enough, anything more severe, I would rather consider taking my Nikon 1 AW1 with All Weather lenses with me instead of the Fuji, I lose some IQ but I can keep shooting and go underwater too.

Hmm.... There could be something with the 50-200 lens, something deeper than just a sharpness issue, could a slightly loose cable, I would send it back again for inspection. As for the 100-400 lens, we have some users reporting lens quality issues that could have passed QC.

1/ Patona, I have been using mines since I got my X-T1 and they have been nothing but great, slightly less charge than originals but for the price differences I can get 2-3 of them. 2/ Again Patona, they have a couple of different models, but I got the dual slot USB only charger and it served me well, takes care of both original battery and Patona's (obviously). The charging time IS slower but that is to be expected than single charging with AC charger. 3/ I went on the official Fuji medium grip for the X-T1 but I don't think there are any for the X-T10, so el-cheapo chinese brand with decent reviews ? 4/ Buy many of them with decent review, I have teared up my share of rain covers and I always have spares with me whenever I know I will be needed them. Thus, cheaper purchase, not the cheapest.

Before the release of the X-T2, I highly doubt we will see much official price drop, there might be some sales here and there, but nothing really major to boot. So chances are it will be the first 3-6 months after the release of the X-T2 and slowly decrease the older it gets. But do remember that the camera wasn't THAT expensive at release when compared to the competition, it was slightly above the D7200 and similar price as the 70D with also a 18-135 zoom kit and could be following the same trend for the prices.

Check the connectors for dust or sand particules ? Did you fully clicked in the lens on the mount ? Sounds silly but sometimes double checking fundamentals could resole part of the issues.

It's slow but not that slow beside the XF 56 F1.2 is about as slow AF. If you don't use the lens to take shots of fast moving subjects you will be fine. The Canon 50 F1.8 is also made of plastic while both the 56 and 60 are metal made, so obviously they are going to be heavier. Beside, the Canon lens does not reproduce the same field of view as the 56/60, you should rather compare it to a 85mm for a better lens to body ratio.

Look at it this way, is it more fun to just enjoy taking the picture and not worry about the technical aspect of it or read documentations about the technicalities of how a picture is taken ? If you are a full beginner and just got yourself a brand new camera, reading technicalities will just kill off the joy of photography. After the first buzz of its newness goes down and if OP feels like it, he can start delve more into how to get his pictures to the next level. But I don't see why it is wrong to take picture in full auto when starting out.

Ohh it's the same concept as Daisuke TAKAKURA, right ?

If you are a beginner in photography, just leave it on full auto at the moment. Once you start grasping the different concepts as aperture, speed, ISO, exposure,... then you start testing a few things around.

Are you certain that you clicked your lens all the way in the mount ? Have had something like that with XF 50-140 the first time I used it, I really had to turn it all the way until I heard the clicking part.

Under normal situation where you shoot mostly humans or relatively ok speed subjects, I am certain Fuji will perform all fine. But when you put it under some stress with fast moving with erratic movements subjects that you see the EvF issues on mirrorless cameras. But the X-Pro series can work around that since they do have an OvF.

X-Pro2 has an OvF, thus negating the issue altogether. But should you be using the EvF, you will be facing pretty much the same issue.

You know the 60mm F2.4 pretty much fit your request, right ? Otherwise, legacy lenses. A focal reducers with any of the 50-60mm legacy lenses would fit your need perfectly and you would still have some money left over.

Currently not possible, the camera has to turn off the EvF to send the information to the sensor, the Sony a6300 works around that by displaying the pictures taken straight into the EvF about as fast as the burst. It doesn't fully take away the blackout but it does alleviate it a bit. Still, I would need to go birding with it to be certain of its capabilities, but then I remember the prices of the lenses...

It heavily depends on the usage you have of your pictures. Some want to show you what they saw, other what they have seen inside their head and others, just need a "canvas" to start brushing to create something completely different. Is any of them wrong ? As far as I am concerned, it's a case of both of them are important and none of them are important. Both the picture taking part and the post processing are just tool to allow us to express something in a better way. To convey emotions or ideas. It is a lot easier to convey sadness if your colors are colder than warm, slightly over exposing a shot can create "dream like" pictures where things aren't perfectly sharp. But let's push it one step further for the sake of argument. Is your camera important to take the picture ? Let me me explain, if you never show your pictures to anyone but yourself, do you need a camera ? Aren't your eyes and your own memory enough ?

What OvF ? There is no OvF on the X-T1/10 camera. Are you prehaps referring to the EvF ? And if so, maybe you can try reading the camera manual page 22 ? Not the nicest of answer I know, but you spend a good sum of money for the camera, you might want to learn a bit about it, no ?

It has nothing to do with the SD card, the camera HAS to turn off the EvF to send the information to the sensor instead of the EvF. The card is only going to shorten the time you need before you can review the shot. That is still a subject where DSLR are preferable over mirrorless cameras.

Asus Zenbook UX305 series, 13.3" size, you can change easily: - 1 RAM slot, 4gb is soldered on the board - HDD slot for either fat HDD drive or fast SSD And if you are good with IT parts swapping, without too much hassle: - CPU - Battery Touch-screen, IPS display, tri HD resolution too. Cheaper version without the touch screen and graphical card at sub 900$ or higher up with the touche screen and GPU at 1300-1400$ depending on CPU versions (up to i7 dual cores). Less than 2cm thickness and weight 1.4kg with the battery cable, 3 USB 3.0 slots, SD card reader mini display port and HDMI. I was really hard pressed to find something as small with that much punch to it. The screen HAD to be calibrated, it has a very nasty yellowish tint by when coming out of the factory. There are several flavor of it and I think they have released an updated version of mine with a slightly better GPU.

The ability of being able to quick edit pictures on the shooting premises is what pushed me to get a 13" ultrabook laptop with a dedicated video card. I used to carry around a bigger 15.6" laptop several years ago also with a dedicated video card but it was starting to get heavy in the Billingham along the Nikon FF + lenses and two years ago, I decided to go lighter and smaller. That's how I ended up with Fuji, came really close of Olympus but in the end, I preferred Fuji IQ over some of the features of the m4/3 format.