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superpanda

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  1. Yes, the iso dial looks nice. It's cute. Very retro. But its a product of a bygone era where you set your ISO to match you film ISO (unless you wanna overxpose) and leave it alone. But these days, shooting full manual involves changing the ISO almost as much as you change your Shutter and Aperture. Having to pull up the dial and twisting it takes a lot of time and effort. Its stupid. FUJI, can you at least allow us to reassign it to the Fn button? Do not force us to use your cute iso dial because it doesn't work for every situation.
  2. wow, if this is true then this lens is sh*t for the price?? Buying a vintage Nikon/Canon 50mm 1.4 plus their Turbon lens II reducer (the new version) is gonna be cheaper. youll still have that f0.95 light gathering upgrade.
  3. A nice medium format system would make more sense. let nikon and canon fight over 35mm !
  4. did you still have to lower noise reduction to -4 or -2? Or is it set to zero?
  5. Hi Guys, I understand most of the discussions here are on RAW post processing. How about the Jpegs? I really love the colors I am getting from the jpegs and with the highlight tone ,shadow and DR settings of the X-pro2, I really don't need to use RAW. Except for when I am in a rush, the scene is challenging and I don't have time to meddle with the settings. Anyways, my question is, when you edit your jpegs in Lightroom /photoshop- more like retouching, cropping , minor contrast/exposure adjustments, what settings do you export your jpeg as? quality at 100% ? I'm thinking jpeg's already had compression, exporting at lower than 100% will lead to even further reduction of quality? How about sharpening? JPEG files starigh out of camera should have had decent amount of sharpening so I figured it should be zero (unless you want that really sharp look) With RAW source files i usually export to JPEG at 76% with DPI of 300 and Standard Sharpening. Thanks in advance!
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