jlmphotos

Even though I can't offer a solution other than what others have stated here, I will say I bought this lens and used it for it's first official event. I was photographing three christenings back-to-back in the same church. The church was extremely well late in afternoon light with large windows down both sides, and skylights running down the center. Very well lit. The 56mm on my XT2 would not lock focus. It was absolutely miserable experience. I switched to using my 35 1.4, and my 18-55 and breezed through the three events! So, my experience with the 56 1.2 has not been positive at all and I would never own that lens. This particular event was on a Sunday, and I returned the lens on Monday morning and have never looked back Heck, I've used the slow and noisy 60mm 2.4 with better results than the 56... That was my experience with the 56mm.

Could it be the memory card you are using? Have you tried different ones?

If you just received the camera, and already have dead pixels I would send it back for another one. In all my years shooting Fuji, since 2012, I've only mapped twice and that was on my XT2 from 2016. IMHO you should not have to do this on an out-of-box camera.

I have been using my iPad Pro instead of my MacBook Air for travel. Even uploading the JPEG's from the 100s and the 50r It's super fast! I LOVE not having to schlep a laptop, and charger. I edited this note to say that I use two SamSung T5 SSD's to store my JPEG's and RAW's. I the upload "most' of the JPEG's to my iPad which has 1TB of internal storage. Once Im done reviewing the images on the iPad, I usually delete many of the JPEG"S and am ready for the next days shooting. I also have synching back to LR turned off as the medium format files quickly clog up the transfer so I don't bother.

Love this image in B&W. I've seen similar in color but not so much in B&W. Thanks for sharing.

I believe it is - even if another button is assigned for focus. I have mine set to Continuous as this helps stabilize the image through the viewfinder when using a longer lens on. The difference in battery usage is not worth not having it on all the time.

I'm very sorry you are experiencing these issues. I've dealt with Fuji Edison (NJ) going back to 2005 and have always been treated very well with no issues. I've had my Finepix S1Pro, S2Pro, S5Pro's serviced and repaired there literally by dropping them off (in on instance on a Thursday for a bad sensor) and picked it up Tuesday morning... This has been one of the many reasons I've stuck with Fuji. Damn--- I hope they haven't gone downhill --- last time I talked with them was about six months ago when I had a question I had about my 50r which they answered right on the phone. Please keep us appraised. Back to your lens: Wouldn't the repair be covered under warranty?

So what? It's a freakin' beast of a camera. Great price now, and still available. I don't see the issue. I'd think if you are serious you'd want interchangeable -- or just grab the 50mm 3.5 and glue it on the front of the 50R. Heck, if I hadn't bought the 100s I'd buy another 50r. You have no idea how amazing that camera is. My two cents.

Think GFX 50R

Interesting. When on the tripod, I use electronic shutter (ES). However, Using the 100-200 zoom, I find that leaving the OIS of the lens to on works better. I was just using the 100s with the 100-200 zoom on a tripod at speeds down to 1/6th of a second and found the ES and OIS on worked better. This past summer while shooting out in Colorado I used a very lightweight tripod and found that on the 50R and the 100-200 combo the images were much better with OIS on the lens activated. Just my two cents worth but I would use ES on non-moving objects given half a chance. However, I do need to do further testing...

Hello everyone, Hope all is well. I have a quick question: I'm going to sell some of my X gear that I'm no longer using. For some reason I cannot find the link. Can someone provide? Many Thanks J

Minolta lenses are fabulous on Fuji cameras! I use Minolta 55mm and 58mm lenses on my XT1 and other bodies. J

On my 100s the L 4:3 is 11648 x 8736. The L3:2 is 11648 x 7768. I'm not sure why the 35mm format would be a different size from the regular 100s. I turned off the 35mm format mode on mine while I was in the setup changes.

Revision: I purchased the 100s last week to use in conjunction with my 50R. The iPad Pro works PHENOMENALLY!!! The JPEG's plus the lossless and uncompressed RAW files work just fine. Load fast - I use LR on the iPad. And I still stand by my decision not to take my laptop on my Alaska trip. Only the iPad Pro this time.

I'd suggest looking at Fuji's underdog lens the 60mm 2.4 Macro. It's not 1:1, it's 1:2 reproduction but I've owned it for years and I love it! It's lightweight, focuses fast enough for my type of work, and it is a micro-contrast BEAST.

I bought that lens several years ago. I was shooting two back-to-back events in a beautiful, well-lit church. There were windows down both sides, and skylights. Beautiful light. I attempted to use the 56 1.2 and it was utter frustration and failure as it failed to focus time after time! I switched to my 35 1.4, and the 18-55 (as I didn't own the 16-55 at the time)and the 60mm F2.4 and finished the two events with no issues after that. The 18-55 was fast enough. the 35 and the 60 hunted some for a split second but unlike the 56 1.2 they did lock on target. This was on a Sunday; and on Monday I returned the 56 1.2. I've never looked at another since. I think I was using the XT-2 at the time so I'm not sure how the same lens would handle on the newer models.

Well that sucks. I've been shooting with the 50R for over two years and have not had this happen. I'm about to order a 100s. Is this normal? Anyone else experiencing this?

beautiful shots - Beautiful dog!

I have not tested with the 100s but I have used the 50r it with the iPad Pro I purchased 12/31/21. I've uploaded both RAW and JPEG's and it worked flawlessly AND FAST! I couldn't be happier with the workflow. I am in the process of ordering the 100s as I'll be taking it, with my 50R system on a two month photo tour of the Yukon and Alaska. I will not be taking my MacBook Air with me on this trip - only the iPad.

I've been using the 30mm lens and it is truly amazing. I don't place a lot of ( never mind: ANY) credence on crap posted online. I do my own testing out in the field. I spent three weeks in Michigan's Upper Peninsula and four weeks in Colorado and my most used lens was the 30mm 3.5, and the 100-200. BOTH of these were amazing. I couldn't be happier.

Yes. Unless it's a manual focus adapted lens, ANY FUJI lens will work w back button focus. That is more of a camera function than a lens issue -- except, as I said if you use adapted lenses that are manual focus only or if you've pulled the ring on the lens to switch it to manual

The 35 1.4 will def. work on the X-T4!! I've owned this magnificent lens since 2012! It's my "you'll have to pry it from my cold dead fingers" lens. Period. I use it on my XT1, XT2, and XH1. The 35 1.4 is equivalent to a 50mm full frame. You may also want to check out the new Vitrox (?) 33mm 1.4. However, I prefer my Fuji lenses.

Even though I own the XT2, XH1 and GFX gear I STILL use and LOVE my XT1. As a matter of fact, I have an exhibition at the newly built Hale Wing at the Boston University Children's Hospital of images taken with the XT1. IT's that good. The prints are 30" x 20". The XT1, using proper shot discipline, is an amazing camera even with only 16 megapixels. Actually, as test images several years ago I printed the sister image that's to be exhibited at 40" x 30" and they still looked amazing. I also believe the XT1 has a more organic quality to the images and hat I believe to be finer grain at higher ISO's.

I never heard of this product but it looks interesting (for some users). Me? I rarely if ever use a strap and if I do, it's Peak Design -- very easily removable for tripod and/or storage use.