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Bedouin

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  1. @cpXThe new lens is not the same as the old one, apparently. I looked at the EXIF and the serials are different. Also, I found a photograph of my old lens. And in this one the serial was printed in the plastic of the lens. And it also had another text printed in the plastic that is not in the new one. Would you buy that book? It would be very boring. The manager didn’t answer my last email. So I am going to write to him again demanding an explanation from someone. Basically I want them to tell me if the lens is working as it should. First, I have to concentrate on this. And then, if someday I finish this issue, I could write a summary in different forums about my experience with Fuji. I don't think I have enough material for a book.
  2. I realized that the serial number is on an adhesive label, so basically it is technically possible that it is my old lens with a new label. The manual and the pouch are the same. And to be honest, it didn’t look like brand-new when I first saw it. My old lens was impeccable, so it is possible. I am only speculating. And when they “repaired” it, it didn’t change anything. So, I don’t know if this lens works as it should, but it is possible that it has always been the same lens all along, just as I bought it.
  3. I took some more photos today, just a few, but enough to confirm that this new 56mmm works worse than the other one. That is at least what I can see.What would you do?It seems to be bad faith, considering the whole picture. I don't know what to say.Is there someone from Fuji in this forum?
  4. Cases like yours seem to indicate that there are good 56mm lenses and bad ones. So... are my old and my new 56mm lenses bad ones?
  5. @cpXThank you. I tried my former lens with another Fuji camera, another model, in different conditions that I usually tried it with my camera. I think the problem was still present, probably less, but still present. Someone I didn’t know from a forum in my country lend me his lens for a few minutes. To do the tests, I use a tripod. I wait for the green square confirmation. I live in another country, so I wouldn’t know how to hire a lawyer to deal with a problem in the US. I don’t know if I would end up winning something. Some months ago, I looked at Consumer Protection laws in New York City, for instance, and there wasn’t anything referring to defective products. And the Consumer Protection office can only deal with the vendor, B&H in this case, but can’t do anything with the manufacturer Fuji. Yes, it is ridiculous and useless, because Fuji offers the warranty. It is like the Consumer Protection office only deals with, for example, the returning policy of the vendor. So, what is the law that a lawyer would be based on to file a complaint? I don’t know.
  6. Hello. Fuji sent me a new lens. It was in a new box. But the pouch and the manual probably were the same of the old lens. There was a paper which says “Replaced lens as a courtesy. OLD SERIAL #06A03202 NEW SERIAL#1HA01549” I tried the lens a bit, and unfortunately it works the same or even worse. I noticed that out-of-focus photos are more frequent. The manager himself took charge of the replacement, and I said to him clearly that I would much prefer a reimbursement or a change for another model. But he sent me this new copy. I have already sent the lens twice. The first time they supposedly replaced two internal parts, to get exactly the same results. So… what conclusion should I reach? Obviously they don’t take care of the client. It is a very frustrating situation. I told them the problem with the lens. I told them that I live in another country and it is very difficult and expensive to send the lens there. I didn’t even get an answer admitting that there is a problem with the lens. Or saying that all the 56mm lenses work like this, or that the problem is my camera, or something. Back in February, when I contacted the manager, he answered me with one or two sentences, without any explanation. What would you do? Should I keep the lens, hire a lawyer, or what?
  7. Fuji recommends two power banks with Power Delivery (Sponsored by Anker?) But in the comments, one or two posters say that Power Delivery is not necessary. Also, this guy... ... says that he uses this regular and cheap power bank which allows him to power his XT3 for “10 hours”. So, have you tried a power bank like the one mentioned by the Youtube reviewer with your Fuji camera? How was your experience with it? How much time it powers the camera?
  8. Do you just set the normal exposure, the one you would use when recording with a Film Simulation? Or do you overexpose in relation to that normal exposure? Do you use any exposure meter, grey card, or just looking at the image and the histogram? If you overexpose, for example, 2 points (in relation to the normal exposure), do you always overexpose 2 points unless the histogram peaks, and in that case you overexpose a little less? I am talking about 10 bits LOG. I have the Fuji XT3 which doesn’t have LUT preview and I don’t have a monitor with that option either. I am going to rent a monitor soon, so I would like to know… How does a LUT preview work? I mean, if I expose LOG the same as I would do it with a Film Simulation, I guess the LUT preview would show me a well exposed and balanced image. But if I am overexposing the LOG video let’s say 2 points (in relation to the normal exposure), does the LUT preview show and overexposed image or is it possible to underexpose the preview?
  9. @Choccy Tell Fauci about that Yeah, it seems that if the camera doesn’t “see” the whole face, it won’t identify the eyes either.
  10. I sent Fuji some images and they told me that they think it is soft on the corners. They spent like three weeks to answer my email, I had to call by phone more than once to finally get the answer (luckily I found a mobile app which makes free calls to USA). The man who assisted me, the first time I talked to him, told me it will take one or two days to fix it. And then he told me it will take 2 ½-3 weeks. And I don’t know if they are going to fix the lens, or to replace it for a new one. I asked if I could change it for another model, and they said no. The only positive thing is that they told me that they will take charge of the delivery to my house in Argentina (but I have pay the delivery to them, which will cost like 50-100 US dollars). And I don’t know if the customs office here will retain the packet, due to “Covid restrictions” or something, I have to find out. In Argentina there is a technician who repairs it. I asked Fuji if it is an official repair service, and they didn’t answer. And it is just one technician and I have to also leave MY CAMERA for some weeks. So, yeah, to buy a defective product it is a downer, especially if you imported it. Also, my mistake was not trying the lens enough in the first 30 days, because in that case at least I could have returned it to B&H. And I think the 50mm 2.0 was much more convenient for me, and much cheaper too, I didn’t investigate enough back then. I will update you on whatever happens to my lens.
  11. Yes, but in a typical close-up portrait, the eyes are in the top part of the frame. I got a lot of pictures where the tip of the nose is quite in focus and the eyes defocused. And in a head to toe portrait, the whole head is in the top and ends up being out-of-focus. And maybe the waist will be in focus. And I didn’t use 1.2, but 2.8 and sometimes 2.0. It is not very convenient for a portraiture lens, is it? So, do you think that the performance of my lens is normal? Do you work for Fuji? The man on this video seems to have the same problem, or a similar one. But as he needed to photograph events for money and as he didn’t get an answer from Fuji, he decided to sell all his Fuji equipment and buy another brand: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9TeFoY6BF8
  12. I did more tests and I was partially wrong. When the camera-lens can’t autofocus, like in the images I showed, I can get a BETTER focus manually. This is especially true when the object is on the sides of the frame. But BETTER doesn’t mean that the object is not somehow blurry. My mistake was that I wasn’t comparing the objects when I focused manually (to achieve a better focus than automatically). And I also did a simple test to measure a “de-centered” lens. So, even if I focus manually, on the sides the objects don’t look good. And it is worse on the left side. And in the letters of the guitar strings packet you can see clearly that it is a kind-of “ghost-like” blur. You can see like a blurred copy of the letters on the side of the original ones. Thus, this probably means that the camera gets confused with this “ghost-like” image and as a consequence it also delivers a bad autofocus. So, it offers a defocused image of an originally fuzzy image. Now, that is using f/1.2. I tried using 4.0 and this “ghost-like” image on the sides is greatly reduced. But I should try more with different apertures. I could go on testing and prepare some examples to show you, but, in general, what is this indicating? A “de-centered” or somehow defective lens? I doubt that all the users who love this lens are getting the poor results I am getting, not even with apertures between 1.2 and 2.8, because portrait photographers usually use these apertures with this lens, and they also use autofocus, that is why they bought it. Am I right? Let me know what you think.
  13. Okay… why aren’t you sure? How do you explain that the area where I tried to autofocus is blurry? It is not motion blur because I used SS 400 and the blurriness happens also using a tripod.
  14. Thank you, mrPeter. It is great that Fuji replaced your faulty lens. Did they pay the transport, in your case? At first, for instance when I was shooting the model I mention, I used the standard focus box, which I think is the third smallest one. And then I chose a smaller one. What focus box do you recommend, the smallest one?
  15. Thank you, Olaf. Those photos are taken with f/1.2, SS 400, and ISO 160. I just used f/1.2 in those photos to show the problem more clearly. The same thing happens if I use 2.8. But, personally, no matter what depth of field I use, I am interested in how the lens can focus what is under the focus box. I bought the lens specially to photograph people and to autofocus on the eyes, as I have been doing for some years. I realized that there was some kind of problem when I photographed a model and then I saw a lot of photos out of focus. Do you have the same lens? Do you get constant out of focus photos when you photograph people and focus on the eyes? Have you tried the same test that I did, focusing the same object in the center and on the sides, using always the focus box over the object?
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