Trenton Talbot

Ditto. This is a part of a feature set called "Image intelligence" (quote: "Automatically enhances skin tone and texture to create smooth, attractive images"). Fuji! Leave damn texture alone!

LED sources are fine at 100%, but most of them flicker like crazy when on dimmer. Same applies to most CFLs. Before you drop the towel, try adjusting your shutter speed in 1/3 increments (using the scroll wheel instead of a dedicated dial), that might cure the problem completely. The only "unfixable" source I've encountered so far was an Eastern European sodium vapor street lights. They flicker so slowly that you actually have to use unbearably slow shutter speeds (1/30 or slower) to avoid banding. PS: Thanks for the compliment! You've got some great work on your site yourself. Also you have a typo in your web address – your profile points to johneman.net, which doesn't exist (if I understand correctly, your real address is johnemay.net).

Unfortunately it's not the camera, it's a light source. It's flickering pretty badly.

Midnight Breeze by Trenton Talbot, on Flickr

To fire the camera remotely, you'll need a camera-compatible cable. YN flash triggers have 2 designations: as a singular trigger and as a kit. First one relates to hot shoe pinout (C or N), while second describes a camera cable that comes with the kit. Unfortunately, they just don't sell C kits with N cables. In short: to fire Nikon D700 using a C-designated trigger, you'll need this cable.

I suggest getting RF-603CII in addition to YN560-TX as a means of triggering your flashes, and using YN560-TX off camera (that's what I do). This way you won't have to care about a hot shoe pinout of YN560-TX (get a Nikon one and use it on your Nikon body). RF-603 are much more appropriately sized for mirrorless cameras, and if you get a C1 version (thin jack cable, both ends), you can use it as a remote cable release, too.

I sincerely recommend Minshift Rotation 180 series. It seems that your needs might be fulfilled by their Panorama backpack. Or if you want to pack more, their Pro backpack will do (that's what I use). Have a look: https://youtu.be/bcVuWRpSnsw

Colors Of The Night by Trenton Talbot, on Flickr

Fuji X100S, BTS candid. Tubular Dudette by Trenton Talbot, on Flickr

That's pretty easy to find out: just set the drive mode to Ch and shoot away.

If you earn money with your camera gear, that pretty much warrants the XF 16/1.4.

Wide dynamic range is not an excuse for the lack of bracketing abilities. What if my scene has a DR of 20+ stops? Here's a quick example from my (very) old archives, shot with Minolta 7D in a short bracketing burst handheld: That scene could've used 5 or even 7 more stops of DR, as a matter of fact. Fortunately, at the time it was cutting edge. Unfortunately, in 2015 it just won't cut it at all.

That's LR6, by the way.

From the forum's main page "…my X stuff" part is always hidden, so every time this thread pops to the top, its headline reads like this:

Oh dear. I have a feeling that they really listen to the Internet buzz. In a bad way. So they want to implement a radio TTL, and groups, and HSS, and an AF illuminator, and a kitchen sink… all in one poor not so little flash.

Two more factors affected by LMO, eh? Let me guess, CA suppression and… Well, you lost me on a second one. And I still haven't done any tests to find out if LMO affects RAF in any way. BTW, I think I found something that you probably haven't – speaking of "pushing the limits". Sometimes, when stacking 10+ frames together, the entire PDAF area becomes visible as a distinct noise pattern that is different from the rest of the frame. That might be important for scientific and forensic photography, maybe to the star trail stacking to some degree. Here's an example (just a crop of the bottom right corner of PDAF zone):

It's just like a car. If you try to drive from a parking lot by switching to 4th gear and cranking up the radio volume, you gonna fail: without a motor running all of these manipulations are futile. Finally you start the motor, and there's a brief weird noise from under the hood, then suddenly everything goes dark and silent. But why?…

Do you keep EXIF when you post to Flickr?

It better deliver!

You forgot to mention the most important part: Fuji will let you frame the shot and see what's going on way below light levels at which the naked eye goes into mysterious realm of "Can't See Shit Captain".

X-T1, XF 56/1.2, 113 exposures from the tripod. First frame was shot with flash. Brenizer Method by Trenton Talbot, on Flickr

Ability of X-Trans sensors to take the light of orange sodium street lamps (CRI is subzero) and turn it into honey keeps amusing me. X-T1, XF23mm, SOOC Jpeg (added a bit of noise in post, that's it). My Preciouss by Trenton Talbot, on Flickr

Thanks. I'd rather be shooting scenes like this from above the cloud layer (it took 70+ exposures to finally get a piece of clear skies in a radiant of Perseus and Ursa Major), but hey, it worked!

Yesterday's meteor shower. X-T1, XF14mm.

That's for pinch caps that cover the front of the hood. Please add measures for the inner diameter too, since most people prefer having caps inside the hood