Trenton Talbot

Fuji makes their own. They're also the only manufacturer (at least that I know of) that openly publishes the spectral charts for each channel of their CFA.

Let me elaborate. To notice that the proximity sensor is on, you'd need to be in a total darkness or have a IR imaging device handy. To notice an "unexplained battery drain" in one day you either have to do a straight 10+ hours of shooting, burning through an unusual amount of batteries, or hook your camera to the battery through the microammeter and have a previous readings on hand to compare. Frankly, I'm puzzled.

You either run your camera through the microammeter in a cave, or you read too much forums. Pick one. Better yet, get a life.

Bad news: this is a problem indeed, sometimes the camera choses wrong eye. Good news: it shows you which eye it chose right away, so you can refocus. But then again… face detection doesn't work at all for faces that are upside down in the frame, which is bad news for family and boudoir photographers alike. PS: It confidently detects my cat's face…

Totally doable. However, you'll need a powerful (2A) source, so forget about portable solar chargers

Interesting. Over decades, I've never had a cover or lid (from any manufacturer) expand or shrink on my camera, yet I constantly see shrunken, expanded or totally eroded lids on other's cameras. Some are result of leaving the camera in extreme conditions (such as on a hot car dashboard, or even in a trunk), others are direct result of interaction with the user. Pretty similar to steering wheels in many used cars. If you pick 2 cars from the same used lot – same make and model, same mileage, – one will have a slightly used steering wheel surface, while another will have its wheel totally destroyed. Some people just seem to sweat with caustic soda, I have no other explanation. In short: send it for warranty replacement and be prepared to do it again later on.

Light pollution. Try it in a really dark room at night.

I can think of 2 ways to efficiently utilize a Trash button: 1. Focus limiter; 2. Modifier button for a right hand side buttons and/or wheels.

That's pretty much like Canon's infamous "Error 99".

Sounds like a harmless bug. But don't worry, it will take at least a few months to drain your battery with such "powerful" infrared LED alone. Other standby circuits combined with battery's own self discharge will finish the job much faster.

It is weird indeed, but not new at all, as I've been observing the same behavior since FW3. Consider it a standby light.

Funny thing: so many people complained before that exposure correction dial didn't work in full manual with auto ISO… and now it seems that only a handful of users noticed that Fuji fixed that in 4.0

I don't use "protective" filters for 99% of my work. But some conditions (ocean spray, flying sand and debris) require protection. Then I use B+W MRC glass (you'll need a 77mm for your 16-55).

B+W MRC.

If you experience any issues after upgrade, I highly recommend resetting the camera to factory defaults, then configuring it from the scratch. It's a major version upgrade, after all…

Any comments on battery life?

There's much more to the sensor than just a chip. And there's way more to X-Trans than a CFA pattern.

I have a "regular" sized grip on my X-E2. Excellent ergonomic enhancement, especially combined with the Lensmate thumb rest. Completely different story with the X-T1. I hated its ergonomics from the day one, so at first I bought a vertical grip to have at least some extra gripping surface (MHG was not available at the time). Once MHGs vent on sale, I've compared them and decided that I like a large one (MHG-XT-Large) better, not the medium. Bought it, installed and… happily ever after. My hands are on a smallish medium size, by the way. PS: Important ergonomic detail. Unlike DSLRs, where you pass the camera strap between your thumb and an index finger, with Fuji and many other MILCs you have to pass it between index and middle fingers.

For ultralight backpacking trips I take 14 and 35mm primes, complete with a 10-stop ND filter and a decent tripod. A set of extension tubes completes the kit. For extended trips I throw in a few extra batteries, solar charger and 1 or 2 additional primes (usually 56 and 23mm), as well as a flashgun or two.

There are some moments in the processional that are destined to be lost, unless you work with the second shooter. As for interaction with the father, in 99% of the cases it happens as they approach the finish line; just align yourself for the shot (preferably with mom in the frame) and be ready to switch to the "wide" body. I typically work big ceremonies with a few wirelessly triggered cameras (for example – one above the isle, one behind the altar).

Processionals are so boringly predictable that you don't need an AF at all. Just pre-visualize the shot, then prefocus and wait for the subject(s) to reach the X mark. Then rinse and repeat for the next spot and/or subject. Recessionals are a bit less predictable, as people tend to interact with each other… but you already got your "quasi formal" perspective during processional, so ditch that long lens, get wide, go close and personal. Even Canikon users can benefit from this strategy.

Try restraining yourself from "spray and pray" shooting

And you can only do that with 4.0 FW?…

It was a terrific lens even before any upgrades. Just get it.

Why not just name a production release something like 4.1 or 4.0.1?