Trenton Talbot

Organic sensor (you asked!) INSTAX!

Of course it won't. How could wide AF work with a long lens, and vice versa? Most importantly, how could new AF work with old lenses?! …on a serious note though, of course the new AF modes will work with all existing and future lenses

If you feel the need for one, just DIY it from the bicycle's inner tube.

Well, sometimes sarcasm becomes a self fulfilling prophecy…

All ultrawide primes could be considered expert lenses, in my opinion. I seldom agree with Ken Rockwell, but on this one I do, for the most part (and he's done all the typing for me, yay!)

Given the options and the fact that you had to ask a bunch of total strangers for advice… 14mm prime is an expert lens, and you obviously just want a "pack it all in one frame" magic bullet, so get a zoom. Now, if you broaden your choice a bit… Since you already have a fabulous 18-55, I'd suggest that you add an 8mm Samyang/Rokinon fisheye as an ultimate "grab it all" solution. Later on, you can use a Fisheye-Hemi filter to "correct" your photos (it works a lot better than any other "defisheyeing" app out there).

Then there's also a rationalization of non-purchase, where "I cannot afford that lovely thingie" magically transforms into "I don't need that crap".

You've got my inner anthropologist really curious… How do you manage to post some really puke inducing NSFW scenes – yet at the same time censor yourself from using even remotely obscene wording in your posts?

Yeah, who in their right mind would buy an iPhone 6 when we have iPnone 5s and a cheaper 5c that both run the same updated iOS?!…

A pair of an off-brand tubes.

…with an X-E2 for a change

A tiny daisy (another XF56mm macro test)

Testing XF 56mm as a macro lens. Overall size of this flower is about 1/16".

Do you see care in my eyes?

I have a contraption on my face called “nose”, so… All other things being equal – I vote for a viewfinder in the corner.

Judging by the looks of your camera body (all ports are closed, crystals of salt everywhere), I'd call it a total loss …except for the thumbrest and a softie You might be able to salvage the lens. Rinse it in distilled water, changing often, and let it dry in near zero humidity (surrounded with uncooked rice or better yet, silica gel). Once it's dry, send it to Fuji for repairs (most likely they'll have to replace the motor and a PCB). Once they send you an estimate for the repairs, you'll know if its worth it or not.

If you don't know what bokehrama is, have a look at Wikipedia (I suggest scrolling right down to "References" and following the links). Post your own examples, share experience and advice, and most importantly, have fun! Fuji X-T1, XF 56mm @ f/1.2, 55 handheld exposures stitched in Autopano Giga.

That's what I meant. Can you do just that with direct printing from your camera?

I'm almost convinced into buying one. Almost. That'll be so much better than business cards!… Just one question. I know that you can print directly from the X-T1. But can you watermark the image while still omitting the middleman (smartphone/tablet)? I mean, is there a way to set up a watermark as an in-printer preset?

Have a look at ThinkTank Retrospective 7. It's small (and flat) enough to be a dedicated mirrorless bag, yet large enough to accommodate a "big" 70-200/2.8 lens. It will swallow that 50-140 with hood attached without hiccups

I had 10-24, 14 and 18. Then I've analyzed how much I used each during last year and… sold 10-24 and 18. Not suggesting anything, just a food for thought.

Fisheye is a special effects lens. While you certainly can "defishise" it with plugins like Fisheye-Hemi (which is much better than PS/LR, by the way)… this is just silly. Like removing the aberrations from a Lensbaby shot. In short: there's no dilemma at all. Get a fisheye if you want a fisheye, and vice versa.

You're right, I forgot that my "default" C1 settings aren't really default

Did a quick an dirty test using default settings in various converters. LR: some rainbows. RPP: heavy rainbows. Apple engine (Preview and Aperture/iPhoto): glittery rainbows. Darktable: glitter factory explosion. Photoninja: wicked purple net on a cheek. Iridient: no artifacts. C1: no artifacts. The rest (colors, sharpening etc) are the matter of personal taste.

In AZ I would mostly worry about mica dust. Mica particles are flat; some of them are perfectly flat, allowing for a scarily good bond with the surface of camera sensor (somewhat similar to diffusion welding). If I were living in AZ, I'd add a Lenspen SensorKlear to my camera cleaning kit – its quite good at picking up the mica dust. Theoretically, in a high dust / low humidity environment you gonna need a good electrical grounding and a decent air circulation. Long term storage in an airtight container still seems to be a bad idea: various chemicals in camera and lens bodies evaporate, and an airtight enclosure might be rather destructive for all sorts of "nano coated" surfaces. I think a HEPA filter mounted as a lid on some metal or plastic box should do the trick. If you're around the smokers a lot, throw a gas mask cartridge in one of your camera bag's compartments – it will absorb a lot of gunk from the air. It should be a cartridge with activated carbon; don't forget to remove both caps… (back in the 90s I used to work in places where it was hard to see past 3-5ft because of the smoke)