Trenton Talbot

Quite a few of the forum members will get a huge traffic to their blogs when they post a side by side comparison of the leaked RC/beta and a final version. Many people have more than one X-T1 body, you know… Another nerdy fun thing to do would be a comparison of the actual disassembled code. I know for sure that a few members are familiar with IDA and the low level debugging.

Little known art history fact: no one's ever been able to finish the painting "Ice cold beer served with a steaming hot tiger shrimps". Same here: biblical temptation. But somehow I'm still able to resist…

No modern camera or lens is sealed against 2 hours in the rain: they either start fogging and become unusable, or fail completely. If you want to shoot in the rain, get an underwater box (or at very least, an "underwater" rated camera-specific bag).

Yep. If you scroll changelog (sort of) down to "Reduced “color blur” artifacts when processing Fujifilm XTrans raw images" under "Bug fixes" and follow the link, you can see for yourself what exactly Adobe meant with this update for us Fuji users.

My point is that your attempt to come around as The One And Only Pro Wedding Photographer Surrounded By Idiots fails miserably. Instead you project an image of a massive jerk, hence the ad hominem.

You should fire your therapist.

For my particular style of twilight shooting, a rear curtain sync makes much more sense than any IS system. Unfortunately, Fuji don't have a rear sync.

I'll skip the hosannah to Fuji's own "extended" eyecup (yes, I use it, but only because there's no choice out there)… You are right, there's no "proper" eyecup for an X-T1. Maybe PRC will cough out one someday, but until then – DIY is a way to go. PS: Hoodman seems to be working with the government contracts a lot lately, I have no other explanation for a $100,000 eyecup R&D figure.

Brings back memories. I can almost taste the local cisco (omul)…

The combo you've described works just fine, I use it sometimes (comes with a rental studio). But it does exactly nothing that PCB Einstein / CyberCommander combo won't do for a fraction of the cost.

Thanks!

Your polarized sunglasses…

Depends. As an RC pilot, I can assure you that "by wire" (or even wireless) can be pretty much instantaneous.

We do the weird stuff… X-T1, XF 14/2.8

Not really. It's a "design flaw" of all ISO hot shoes in existence. They are designed to hold an accessory, not to be supported by that accessory. Camera's hot shoe can survive rocking loads (to some extent though, as I've seen a lot of Nikon hot shoes destroyed by heavy flashguns). However, once you introduce twisting, the steel parts of the hot shoe act as scissors, easily cutting thin bolts that hold it in place. …And it's a good thing that they do, actually: in case of an overload, something have to break. I'd rather see a hot shoe bolts stripped ($20-$40 repair) than an irreparable crack in a camera's magnesium chassis.

I think that the only way to ensure safety of the hot shoe with thumb rests is rater counterintuitive… Making thumb rests from the very frangible material, as opposed to the current trend of "hi end" materials like milled brass.

Houston, we have a problem: you are theorizing. "Change your lenses with camera facing down" is a practical formula. But if you need a quasi theoretical blurb to back it up… Not all airborne particles are capable of flying up, nor all of them can fly again once settled. These are the most "dangerous" particles, the ones that an ultrasonic cleaning won't shake off the sensor.

It somewhat protects against bumps, but if you read carefully, you might notice that @Sip's original text says "…but I'm sure if I hooked something hard…"

Turn the camera off (battery charged, memory card in). Press and hold "Disp/Back" button. Turn the camera on. Release "Disp/Back" button. Read the current FW version. RTFM

Nice stack! Not so sure about the knife though. I have their pipe knife; it's a work of art indeed, but way overpriced in my opinion, even for a hand crafted piece. (Says the man who collects haute horlogerie timepieces))

Akita-inu in Minsk, Belarus. A very interesting (although unintended) test of the X-Trans sensor capabilities: dynamic range of the scene (metered) was over 20 stops.

There'll always be some anecdotal evidence* to support both sides of the "weather sealing" dichotomy. Actually, that applies to any gimmick

You can start by asking: weather what, exactly? Freezing rain? Tsunami? Sandstorm? Tornado?… By "weather sealing" manufacturers usually mean "more or less protected against a downpour, but absolutely no guarantee" – amazingly similar to "water resistant" watches. So most users perceive "weather sealing" as "water resistant" without thinking twice. And that's exactly what makes "weather sealing" a gimmick: no one ever bothered to rate a camera or lens using widely recognized standards such as IPX. Not even an IPX-1 (10 minutes of protection from dripping water, single direction). So basically when you choose a "weather resistant" something, you vote with your hard earned money for the continual existence of a salesy BS. From where I'm standing, "weather sealing" is no more effective than a trash bag and a few pieces of gaff tape.

Feel free to disagree with the author's way of presenting his photographs by messaging him privately. In an open thread dedicated to one particular subject, an off-topic remarks like yours are quite flammable and could result in a lot of rather uninteresting traffic. Please refrain from making comments on presentation, including amount of photos per post, frames, logos and watermarks. However, comments on artistic and technical aspects of night photography are very welcome, as well as asking questions and providing answers.

Any Pictbridge compatible printer will do.