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Found 20 results

  1. I headed over to Silverstone on Saturday afternoon to shoot the Hankook 24hr Race with my new 100-400mm on my X-T10. It was a great experience and the kit worked superbly well, despite the challenging conditions... Silverstone 24hr by Chris Harrison, on Flickr Silverstone 24hr by Chris Harrison, on Flickr Silverstone 24hr by Chris Harrison, on Flickr Silverstone 24hr by Chris Harrison, on Flickr Silverstone 24hr by Chris Harrison, on Flickr Silverstone 24hr by Chris Harrison, on Flickr
  2. Hi, I have an information about a lost X-T10 camera with 16 GB SD Card on Saturday, 25 June 2016 at Meteora, Greece. If the owner reads that post, please, contact me on sulyopulyo@yahoo.co.jp
  3. Hello everyone, I got myself a Fujifilm X-T10 a couple of days ago and I just want to know if there is any way to reset the AF point with a button to the middle of the frame. I know this function is there on the Canon EOS 5D III, where you just press the joystick in to reset the AF to the middle point. I am not sure about it but I had an X-E1 some time ago for a few weeks and I think I could reset the AF point bi pressing the control wheel on the back of the camera. Now, when I press the wheel on the back of the X-T10 it will reset the box size but not move the point to the middle. I'd like to have a quick way to reset my AF point so I know when I put the camera to my eye that there is my AF point waiting for me in the middle if I need to grab a quick shot. Right now if I use it somwhere near the corners I need to look for my AF point and sometimes it is just hard to find or in the worst location imaginable... fiddleing with the buttons to move it somwhere usable for my subject more often than not results in a missed shot. I just really got used to this function on the Canon 5D and I don't want to miss it on the Fuji, especially when there is some kind of half-reset with the press of the back wheel. Please tell me that I just overlooked some menu point where you can set the camera up like this. Please. I'm already bummed that the wheel direction to change things like ISO cannot be inverted...
  4. Hi there, Back in January I went to my favourite camera shop (London Camera Exchange in Plymouth) with the idea of trading in my Sony NEX-5 for an a6000. I also took my old Canon EOS 350 & associated lenses along with a Leica D-Lux3 compact, just to see if I would get a decent part exchange valuation against the proposed new Sony. They gave me a good quote for the old gear, so I was *just* about to seal the deal on the a6000 when I said to the assistant "Is there anything else I should consider as a Sony alternative?" They showed me an Olympus OM D (which was very nice) & then showed me the Fuji X-T10 - Wow! What a brilliant camera. I was immediately knocked out by the build quality & the whole feel & appearance. Needless to say I walked out with the kit with the 18-55 & 55-200 lenses; what a revelation the Fuji system has been - no regrets at all. I have one main question re' processing the Fuji RAW files. At present I have a 9 year old iMac which means I'm restricted to using Lightroom 5.7.1, which can't handle the RAW files natively (I have to convert them to DNG before Lightroom will touch them). I've had a look around online & Iridient Developer seems to be well regarded for handling the X-Trans RAW files; does anyone have experience of Iridient or, come to that, any other RAW processors? Apologies for rambling & if this needs to be posted to a more relevant thread please let me know. Thanks.
  5. The X-T10 is a wonderful camera. I'm primarily a Sony shooter (A7r), but the recently acquired X-T10 is the camera I pick up just for the joy of shooting it (and yes, at this point I'll completely switch to Fuji as soon as X-Pro 2 prices will come down to earth). That said, there are a few things Fuji screwed up (intentionally? to push us into buying the X-T1?) with the X-T10 and some of them (2, 3, 4, 5) can be fixed in firmware, others will require a new iteration of the body. 1) We need the ability to fit a larger eyecup, period. Even the cheapest film cameras had this feature, why forego one of the main usability point if you're a company that has built is reputation on haptic and user experience? (I have to be able to see the scene clearly to be then able to capture it in a good way, or not?)* *that said, I might have found a DIY way to use a larger cup, I'll post the results should the experiment be successful EDIT: yep, it worked. You can check the results here: http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/2284-sugru-nikon-dk-19-x-t10-extended-eyepiece/ 2) Why give us a bracketing option, but then hamper it with a limit to 3 frames with +/- 1 stop max? I can easily recover that amount in post, often even in jpeg. What we need is at least a +/- 2 stops, and better still the ability to shoot up to 7 frames to make HDR easy* *no, not "that" kind of HDR; but in landscape photography you often find yourself exceeding the capabilities of a sensor, and is nice to have the option to work with "deeper" (in terms of bit) files anyway 3) The self timer belongs on the "Drive" control wheel, if not for anything else for consistency and logic. With a firmware update you could easily let us assign one of the options on the wheel to that 4) People are alway whining about Sony and Olympus menus. I use both and guess what? Compared to them Fuji ones are even worst (even though, to be fair, they've come a long way since the original X100). Come on, get a grip and clean them up, or we'll send you to bed without dinner* *yes, with the "Q" menu you don't have to dig into the main menu that often. But still... 5) Lastly, not a mistake but a personal preference. I'd like very much the ability to assign the movie button to the focus magnification. I have that set up in the same place for all my other cameras (Sony and Olympus), and the consistency would be nice Other than that, IMO you've built an instant classic.
  6. I just found that the latest firmware for X-T1 / X-T10 can now support 1/250 flash sync. I've tested with Nissin i40, as well as Cactus RF60 with V6 transceiver. It didn't work before, but now it does! I checked the release notes of all previous firmwares, but such update has never been mentioned before. It seems that Fuji hasn't officially announced such update yet, but the feature is there already.
  7. I noticed it turns the preview on when half pressing the shutter even though I set this setting off. Is this normal? I might be mistaken but I think firmware 1.0 keeps it off. I just recently bought an x-t10 switching from a d7000, still learning the features.
  8. A couple of weeks ago I bought a X-T10 to give the Fuji-system a try. After hauling a Canon camera system along for nearly two decades I longed for equipment which is lighter on the back and shoulders but which is of equal quality. I gave the X-T10 a try, waiting untill the new X-T2 to appears to get a top level camera. I'll then use the X-T10 as a second body next to the X-T2. Or sell the X-T10 and get 2 X-T2's, depending on what that camera offers. At least, that was the plan if my test of the system turned out well. To set the scene: I'm used to a system with full frame cameras (Canon 1 and 5 series) and L-lenses. On the 5 series I use Magic Lantern for some added features like crop marks and auto-bracketing. I shoot mainly landscapes as well as macro (insects). I nearly never shoot video. I know Fuji (so far) can't replace my Canon system for macro. For this I need: - a 120mm (180mm equivalent) macro, - a good TTL-flash system with master and slave options, - a specialty lens like the Canon MP-e - a macro twin flash. But for landscapes and assignments (which hardly never involve macro) I hope it's able to replace my Canons rather soon. Most of the equivalent lenses exist and a 100-400 is on the way. And my tilt shift lens should be able to be replaced by a lens I attach to an adapter. The lenses I got (so far only the XF 18-55 and 10-24) turned out to be superb. I have no doubt the other lenses I need will be of equal quality. The camera feels like a professional tool, yet also feels like "fun". The sensor of the camera is very good and the viewfinder is decent. There are enough buttons and dials to change every setting. From a hardware point of view it's really good (I did add an L-bracket which makes the camera fit my hand a lot better than without). But the software/firmware of the camera needs work for the X-T10 to be able to replace my Canons. Especially the exposure bracketing, custom settings and the way back button focusing is implemented are show stoppers. That is: for my kind of use. You might pick up the camera and never notice any of these things. The good thing: all of it can be fixed by firmware. Some of these things might be available on the X-T1 and not on the X-T10 to distinguish the models further. I don't know. My wishlist of changes/additions in firmware (for the X-T10), in decreasing order of importance: Exposure bracketing. The presence of a BKT1 and BKT2-setting is nice. But the exposure bracketing is way too limited. This should be extended in 3 ways: 1) the ability to choose the number of photos. This is currently 3 photos but at least 5 should be an option. 2) the maximum difference is now 1 stop. This should be extended to at least 2 stops. 3) the order in which way the photos will be taken should be a choice. The two most obvious choices are: "0 - + -- ++" and "-- - 0 + ++". An "auto-bracketing" like available in Magic Lantern on Canon cameras would be a useful addition as well. Custom settings 1. There are 8 custom settings, which is good. But for all raw shooters there is only 1 setting which can be changed by that and that's ISO. Custom settings should be able to change: ISO, bracketing, timer, AF-area (when in S or C-mode), aperture. If possible it should also override the S/C/M-focus switch. On my Canon I have C1, C2 and C3 set as follows: C1 = f8, ISO200, timer 2", mirror lock-up (no use for that one on the XT10 :-) ), back button AF, single shot. This is my standard setting for landscapes. C2 = similar + f16, 3 bracketed exposures at 1.5 stops interval. I use this for high contrast landscapes, frequently with the sun in the viewfinder. C3 = f5.6, ISO800, no timer, no mirror lock up, continuous shooting. This is used when suddenly something fast happens like a flock of birds or a deer passing by. C3 is the outer most setting on the dial so I just rotate till it stops. Custom settings 2. Custom settings can only be reached through the Q-button and then a wheel. Why not use the Adv 1 and Adv 2 settings (and if possible BKT1 and BKT2 as well) on the dial for this. The "advanced filter" settings are totally useless for anyone shooting raw and could be used for "advanced" settings. Back button AF 1. Back button AF is the way I have used all my cameras for over 10 years. The way it is implemented in the XT10 however is very awkward because only in manual focus mode (M) it works as expected. In single (S) and continuous © mode bbAF doesn't prevent the shutter button from focusing. You need to keep the AF-L button pressed to prevent the shutter from focusing. Back button AF should focus while the AF-L is pressed and should not focus when the shutter is pressed in S, C and M-mode. Back button AF 2. When changing the focus point (I've set the 4 buttons of the controller to change this) the shutter needs to be pressed to go back to shooting. A press on the AF-L button or touching the zoom ring should have the same effect. Back button AF 3. When in manual focus mode (the only mode where back button AF behaves as expected) the possibilities to set the AF area are limited. Focus magnification 1. The focus magnification (in manual focus) is limited to 6x (or is it 5x?). An additional 10x magnification would be a lot more useful. Focus magnification 2. When magnified it should be able to change the zoomed location by using the four buttons on the back. Currently the only way to inspect another part of the image magnified it needs a push of the shutter, change location, shutter, zoom ring. That's 4 steps instead of just one push of a button. This makes in extremely unpractical to check the focus of an image (e.g. landscape) before the image is taken. In review mode it does work like this so that's Overexposed areas. The viewfinder doesn't show overexposure. Why not have the possibility to set zebras or blinking highlights for overexposed areas, just like there is the possibility to set focus peaking? There are blinking highlights available but only in review mode and not during shooting. Histogram 1. The edges of the dark histogram area (both in the viewfinder and in review mode) don't fall at the black and white levels but are a little bit further. This makes it impossible to really know from the histogram whether there is pure black and/or pure white in a picture. Either the dark area should be a little bit smaller or there could be some fine lines showing the edges of the histogram. Histogram 2. There's only a histogram from black to white but not for RGB separately. It would be really useful to have the option to show an RGB-historgram in the viewfinder and in review mode. Histogram 3. The histogram is visible in the viewfinder but disappears when the shutter is pressed halfway. I'd like the histogram to stay visible all the time. Or have it as a choice in a setting. Focus peaking. When focus peaking is enabled in manual focus mode the peaking is on all the time, except when the shutter is half pressed. It would be a lot more useful if the peaking is only on when touching the focus ring and not all the time. Focus peaking and Black and White. Focus peaking with a colour doesn't work when the camera is set to B&W. T-setting (longer than 1 second). The T-setting is a very nice thought. But why is it limited to 30 seconds and not 30 minutes? Framing guidelines. The available grids are nice but it would be nice if an additional overlay like a 4:5 image crop could be displayed in the viewfinder as well. Not like the "image size" aspects ratios which turn the part of the image outside the image black but an additional line which should where a crop afterwards would be for a specific aspect ratio.
  9. Hi everyone. First post here :-) I'll probably not add to the many camera reviews out there, but just wanted to share my first impressions of the X-T10 and a few images from it. Firstly, my history is that I started shooting with an X-Pro 1 pretty much when it was first released, having switched from a Nikon D700 set up. I then purchased an X-E2 because I wanted to take advantage of the new hardware upgrades and needed a spare camera. X-E2 was my first choice most of the time but would sometimes switch back to use the X-Pro1 when it was appropriate. The X-Pro1 for me still has something special. Like most people I have got a little bored with waiting for the new X-Pro 2, it's been a long time now. I was weighing up whether to get myself an X-T1 or X-T10 and to be honest it's really an interim camera for me until the X-Pro 2 comes out and so the X-T10 won! First of all I found it a little difficult to get used to having shot with the X-Pro and X-E for a long time now... Mainly I found the viewfinder in the middle to be odd, I must be instutionalised!! Obviosuly that is not a fault, I just need to adjust and I'm sure it won't take too long. The X-T10 is small and I found when holding and using the camera that the thenar part of my hand kept pressing the right direction button on the reverse of the camera. This was assigned to flash mode and it was a little annoying. I have now set that function button to do nothing. Fortunately I have enough other function buttons for all of the regular things I need. Other than that I have found it pretty good to hold and use, once you have the function buttons assigned to what works best for you. For me, I love having the pop-up flash, this was a benefit of the X-T10 over the X-T1. It does feel odd having a mirror prism hump on these cameras, but at least it does serve a purpose of sorts, it contains the electronic viewfinder and in the case of the X-T10, also the flash. No weather sealing does not bother me too much as I don't currently own any weather resistant lenses. I'm kind of hoping that the X-Pro 2 will have though, for future lens purchases. But we'll see on that front! I have to admit the biggest draw to the X-T1 was the viewfinder and the X-T10 is definitely a compromise. But it's okay, it's every bit as good as my X-E2. Again I hope that the X-Pro 2 will at least have an electronic viewfinder to match the X-T1 or maybe even better, with the added benefit of the hybrid. Firmware 4 does seem good, the interface and type sizes used are a little different and again takes just a bit of getting used to. The auto focus does seem more snappy than that of the X-E2 and appears to perform better in low light. I may not use the tracking features that much but it's nice to have the option. Face (and eye) recognition seems to work pretty well which is ncie to have. I also really like having the electronic shutter and have set it to activate when the mechanical shutter can't achieve a fast enough shutter speed. This came in to play with the photo of my daughter with her new slinky! Of course it's rumoured that firmware 4 will come for the X-E2 by the end of the year, but I'm slighly skeptical that it will work quite as well on an older camera, but we'll see. Just a couple of samples to show so far, but of course image quality is no different to any of the other cameras in the line up. This image was taken with the X-T10 at the weekend. Wide open at f/1.4 with the 23mm lens and at ISO 1000. © Andrew Newson This image was taken with the X-T10 at the weekend. Wide open at f/1.4 with the 23mm lens, at ISO 200 and a shutter speed of 1/4700 sec. http://andrewnewson.co.uk/quiet-discovery/2015/9/7/willow-and-slinky A couple of images of a rather tasty Dodge Charger in Bexhill. http://andrewnewson.co.uk/quiet-discovery/2015/9/9/charger So I guess you could say that I am a professional using 'enthusiast' cameras, but you know what, I really don't care! These Fujis are great, whether you go for the X-E2, the X-T10 or pretty much any one of the current X line up, you know you're going to get great image quality. I can't wait to see where it goes next! Thanks for reading. Andy
  10. Rented the X-T10 to see if it’s right for me, and immediately see that the viewfinder eye cup barely protrudes out, making for a squashed nose against the screen situation, which I also found with the X-T1. Luckily, Fujifilm made a Long Eye Cup for X-T1 which was only $15, but it doesn’t appear as if there is one available for the X-T10. This is a real deal breaker for me, because even with my nose crushed against the back display, I still can’t see all of the EVF.
  11. I have been a Nikon user since around 2007 when I moved to a DSLR. Before that I had experience with Fuji cameras (FinePix E900) and loved the pictures I took with it. Over the years I went through some experimenting with camera and lens combinations before my current setup, the Nikon D7100 and 18-300 lens. I used to travel a lot and took pictures like crazy from trains, buses, helicopters as well as during walks. I don't have time or patience to keep switching lenses and the 18-300 has been good for the most part even though the images are a little soft. I also despise tripods or posing people and prefer to shoot in the moment. Anyway enough about my history and preferences, lets get to the point. I have been investigating moving into mirrorless and considering options outside of Nikon which brought me to looking over the Sony range and of course returning to Fuji. The Sony a7 II has a nice feel to it and specs but is way too expensive for my tastes and I'm not much of a Sony fan as I had bad experiences with their cameras in the past (pre-Fuji). The Fuji X-T10 seems like reasonably priced system and I have been enjoying the photos I have seen taken with it. Of course any such move to a new camera brings in the concerns so I thought, who would have better information than this group. Any Nikon converts want to share their experience? I am also open to taking advice on lenses since there doesn't seem to an 18-300 equivalent for the Fuji. Thanks in advance.
  12. So, I bought an X-T20 just over a month ago. I live in the Middle East and it's not easy to come by accessories here, so I had to do a lot of research on what I might need. I read reviews online, watched You-Tube videos and searched the net. One of the biggest bugbears that people seem to have with the X-T10 and 20 is the small hand grip. There appeared to be three solutions that would suit or assist me. - The Hand Grip - A hand strap - A thumb rest It seemed to me that all three would be useful in one way or another, so I bought a secondhand Fuji MHG-XT10 Hand Grip on eBay, a Peak Design Clutch Hand Strap from Wex Cameras and a hot shoe mounted thumb rest from China. The attached photo shows the thumb rest and hand strap...
  13. hambern


    From the album: X100 vs X-T10

    This is the new Provia – The standard setting on X-T10
  14. hambern


    From the album: X100 vs X-T10

    This one is the closest. It's Pro Negative Std with Color set to +2
  15. From the album: Andrew Newson Photography Courses

    My daughter dressed as a cat in the woods. Well why not!?

    © © Andrew Newson

  16. From the album: Andrew Newson Photography Courses

    View down on to Harrop Tarn in the Lake District, UK.

    © © Andrew Newson

  17. From the album: Andrew Newson Photography Courses

    Recently we ran a photography holiday to the Lake District in the UK. It was one of the most successful ones we have done to date with 12 people attending. We had some pretty wet weather but of course we braved the conditions and it actually made for some quite atmospheric images.

    © © Andrew Newson

  18. I just brought my Fuji X-T10 and am very happy with the camera unfortunately Lightroom 5.6 doesn't recognise the raw files yet. Is there any other photo editing software I could use.
  19. I wanted to see if I can get rid of the Sony, given I enjoy much more the results I'm getting from the Fuji in terms of colors and ease of post-processing. So today I put them one against the other taking identical shots few seconds apart. You can see below a couple of twin crops (click on them to see them properly, albeit softened by the web compression probably used by the forum software backend) that on a normal, non-retina, screen will have the same dimensions of a print of a 100cm length. In each, one of the images has been shot with a Sony A7r ("Vivid" picture style), the other with the X-T10 ("Velvia" film simulation), trying to match the colors to a reasonable approximation. Both using Contax Zeiss glass at f/11 (a 50/1.7 Planar on the Sony, a 35/2.8 Distagon on the Fuji; I know these lenses well, and from f/5.6 forward they are undistinguishable so any difference is due the sensor, not the lens). Irident (or RawTherapee with deconvolution sharpening and microcontast) would be able to squeeze even more details from the X-T10, but for these examples I've used Photoshop CS 6.1 I'm extremely impressed, to say the least. Remembering that you will watch a print this big at least from 60/80cm apart, so please don't put your nose on the screen , can you tell which one is which2? Hint: if I keep getting these results my A7r is hitting eBay soon! 1Using the following sharpening procedure, should you be curious. SHARPENING METHOD USED Keep in mind that the following values are indicative (you'll have to tweak them based on the picture content and the amount of detail) and based on fairly big prints, like 60x90cm and up. However, given that to properly apply them you will have to use your picture as a "Smart object", they might work even for smaller print sizes, especially toning down the radiuses. In Lightroom or in Camera Raw (same thing) I give the files a fairly conservative (for an X-trans sensor) capture sharpening: amount 40 / radius 1 / details 60 / masking 10. Then I open the file in Photoshop as a "Smart object" and I resize it to fit my desired print dimensions. At that point I use first the old, classic "Unsharp mask": amount 120%, radius 1.5 pixels, threshold 0. And finally "Smart sharpen" in "Advanced" mode to extract the textures and the small detail (this takes care of the watercolor effect, basically). General tab: amount 131%, radius 1.5 pixels, "Lens blur" with "More accurate" activated Shadows: fade amount 60%, tonal width 50, radius 1 Highlights: fade amount 20%, tonal width 50, radius 1 OPTIONAL STEP (not used in the samples above): at this point, should you want results more comparable to Irident, but at the cost of a tad more noise, you should add another round of "Smart sharpen": amount 40, radius 1. After these steps all that's left is print sharpening, but of that I usually let the now free Nik Sharpen plugin take care of. 2In both cases left Sony A7r, right Fuji X-T10
  20. I will make outing now: I always considered weather sealing more as a gimmick. First, becuase I usually don't shoot under the rain, and second becuase even in case of rain, I was always pretty confident that my camera can handle it (as you can see in the image). I don't know if in the long term there could be any damage, but for sure my X-E2 worked perfectly until the day I jumped into a river with it (turned on!) in order to save my life (story here). I say this, because one of the key differences between the X-T1 and X-T10 is weather sealing. So feel free to tell us what you think about weather sealing... is it something you absolutely need, a nice to have feature but no deal-breaker, or is weather sealing something that does not influence your buying decision at all? Long story short: is the lack of weather sealing on the X-T10 a deal-breaker for you?
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