Jump to content

Trenton Talbot

Members
  • Posts

    320
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    11

Everything posted by Trenton Talbot

  1. Totally possible. Just order a generic pinch-style lens cap that is 1mm (with some metal hoods 2mm) smaller than your filter size.
  2. Here's the squid that I use, and here's another one. In both cases, you just plug one end into your USB power bank and an appropriate jack into Wasabi charger. No need for a cigarette lighter plug.
  3. Mine has a folding US plug and a "car charger" hole (if I remember correctly, a generic car adapter was included). One would assume that it requires 12V… yet on a shield it says "8V 500mA".
  4. The solar panel is a no-brand, less than $50 shipped from dx.com. It only has a USB output. Power bank is a Hiper MP12500. It certainly takes a full day to juice up that power bank, but then you can charge quite a few camera batteries. I use a USB "squid" to connect my power bank to just about anything. There's no need for an inverter.
  5. I use generic metal hoods on my 56/1.2 and X100S. PS: You've missed ":" in your link.
  6. As expected, yesterday's test was a success. Cheap 10W solar panel was powerful enough to charge my USB power bank, which in turn had enough juice to power the Wasabi charger. Just a few considerations: 1. Make sure that your power bank is capable of pass-through (charging and exerting power at the same time). 2. Find a solar panel that is more or less weather sealed. 3. Figure out a way to position your solar panel perpendicular to sun rays. 4. Bring a spare cable(s).
  7. I planning on getting one eventually, but don't have high hopes. At least it will make a nice display piece, unlike Trioplan.
  8. 56 does a terrific job as a semi-macro, "ring" lens. Just add an extension tube
  9. Of course one needs to use a "mediator" battery, preferably a pass-through type.
  10. It has nothing to do with the contrast (which is usually crazy high in "G&G" photos), it's a tonal range. There are circumstances that dictate reduced tonal range… same circumstances that look good in a strong key, either high or low. But here's the thing: missing black in a high key image or white in low key is forgivable. But missing white in high key or black in low key is just… Quirky. Ironic. Bullshit. I can imagine only one scenario where human being will perceive a dark scene without blacks or bright scene without whites: freshly inflicted concussion.
  11. Bugless Daisies by Trenton Talbot, on Flickr X-T1, XF56mm, extension tubes. The story behind the shot can be found here
  12. I was raised on B&W photography in the 70s. We even had a term "brilliance", which meant that a technically good B&W photo must have something pitch black and something totally white (0 and 255 in digital terms). These "awesome sauce" presets that you're sarcastically referring to are just laziness, plain and simple. Photo sucks? Let's kill the shadows. Still sucks? Let's grey out the highlights. What, still crappy? Let's add a texture. And a fake tilt-shift. And an artificial glare. See, an instant masterpiece!
  13. It's a way to save an image that is otherwise totally screwed by unintended high contrast. Works well in both color and B&W. Unfortunately, the fad of making this effect into particular photographer's branded "look" isn't over yet.
  14. Judging by Wasabi Power charger (the only Fuji compatible charger with an external power in port that I have), we gonna need at the very least 8.4V at 500mA to charge. It means that a 10W solar panel, at least in theory, will do just fine – even on a cloudy day. I'll try to put this theory to test tomorrow, as I happen to have a cheap 10W panel laying around.
  15. If this is the case, I suggest skipping the 135 format altogether and going with Voigtländer Bessa II or a similar MF RF folder. If Bessa is too expensive, get a Soviet era Moskva-2, 4 or 5.
  16. Treat yourself to original Fuji X100 instead, it's much better and cheaper, too. Unless you consider aligning split image in RF spot to be a major part of the fun
  17. Accidental selfie in the night forest. X-T1, XF14mm, 2 flashes, 1 light wand. I was actually just checking the key light…
  18. Judging by the photo you posted at the start of this topic, your home WiFi has a really impressive range!
  19. I'd like an optional ergonomic grip with a built-in glucose meter, so my second shooters will know when their blood sugar is running low. Oh, and that decisive moment alert thingie, too.
  20. No, that's definitely not an IR-only camera, more like a promiscuous spectrum one that captures everything from UV to IR (380nm – 1,000nm). For a "fine art" part of the intended use you'll need filters.
  21. This is an inherent issue with some fluorescent and CFL fixtures that have a very short afterglow on their phosphorus. Also applies to LED lights on a dimmer (no afterglow at all). Try slower shutter speeds – much slower, like 1/10 of a second. Unfortunately, there's nothing else you can do about it.
  22. Here's a good starter kit for you (and it's made in Canada!) Also you gonna need a decent light source, like a headlamp (cheap, general camping) or a specialized sensor loupe with LED lights.
×
×
  • Create New...