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I require leaf shutter versions of main existing primes. The most wanted are 56/1.2 and 16/1.4. (I use X100s for 23mm and 32mm). Otherwise with 90/2 Fuji has released everything I need.

I prefer the black version because all Fuji lenses are black (except the crappiest XC series). I don't like totally black lenses on silver cameras. Also I like silver cameras more than GS ones. As a bonus black version is cheaper. Nevertheless I definitely prefer the silver versions of the X100 series. X100s is my camera all people mistake with the film one opposed to X-T1. I rarely shoot secretly. And if I do even the real film camera (nikon FE) is not a rescue as people in charge still ask me what am I shooting.

My X100s shows the opposite. OVF AF is faster than EVF.

For a long walking trip I take 18-135, filters, superlight tripod and spot torch. For not too long walk I add 10-24.

I got used to use EVF to set as much settings as possible on the weddings. When a photographer finds out he has to change smth in his camera during a portrait shot and takes his camera down, he looses the attention of the objects immediately. (This usually doesn't apply to bride and groom but other guests and especially group portraits). I learned that in this situation it's better to hold your camera to the eye and talk to the subject as if you're catching a moment. This is definitely not the thing that applies to everyone but my personal nuance that explains why I use only right handed fn buttons.

Probably you're right. I rarely use X100s wide open at close distances because of DOF limitations. I rather lit the scene and shoot at f/8-f/11 or do casual shooting at a meter distance at f/2. Nevertheless at normal distances even at f/2 X100s is more than sharp. I do severe crops sometimes and never had a problem with the lack of sharpness. AF unreliability is much more serious issue.

Why would anyone need X30 duplicating X-T1+18-135?!

I'm using Nikkor 105/2 DC while I'm saving for XF 90/2. I also have Nikkors 28/2 ai-s, 50/1.8 ai-s longnose, 100/2.8 series E. I've adapted them to X-T1. It feels great because all these lenses are very tight and small. Nevertheless the IQ is not that great and I have Fuji alternatives so I have no need in shooting with them.

I prefer X100s for leaf shutter and compact size. I'd use XF only for rapid shooting due to 1 stop aperture and faster AF. But I like 16mm FL for this more. Forget about IQ difference. XF is better on tests but for real shooting they are the same. X100 series lens is great.

I mean that in order to use this button you have to take your eye off the camera and take your left hand from the lens. I use every current Fn button with my eye to the viewfinder. Once again it's not a problem. More Fn = better. This button is just not as convenient as others.

The trash button is on the left side of the camera. It would be not convenient to use this button during shooting. Thus I'm not annoyed. IMO trash as Fn is welcome but not necessary.

I use cactus v6 transievers. They allow me to coulpe Fuji cameras with Nikon and Pentax flashes. V6 offer not only radio-trigger but full remote manual power control of ttl flashes. Fantastic.

My secret is to carry several cameras with different primes. I use two for now but I really need three. I have had to borrow Nikon D750+20/1.8 from my friend for the weddings I can't do with two cameras and 10-24/4 instead of 16/1.4 (it's just about to arrive). I'm waiting for X-Pro2 but as it's postponed again it looks like I have to get another body now. Every shooting scene takes it's own combination of lenses but the short answer is: For standard size rooms XF 16/1.4 X100s XF 56/1.2 For halls XF 16/1.4 X100s+TCL XF 90/2 (I use Nikkor 105/2 DC while I'm saving for 90/2)

Nik stands for "Nikon" Nik (G) is for G lenses NF = "Nikon to Fuji". You just need to decide weather you need aperture control (going to use G lenses) or not.

I have no-name nik adapter. Fuji mount is plastic, Nikon mount is metal. It is little longer than needed so my Ai-s lenses set to infinity are over-infinity. No a big deal. I just loose several close focus cm. Nevertheless I don't adapt G lenses to Fuji. If you do, I'd recommend to get a high quality converter from Metabones. Bad converter can damage the aperture pin. Don't forget to consider speedboosters. It's a cool but quite expensive thing.

XF 10-24 is definitely the best choice for exteriors and especially for interiors.

My gear. X-T1 X100s I'm waiting for X-Pro2 to choose weather to add it too my setup or second X-T1 body. XF 10-24/4 (will be replaced with XF 16/1.4 soon) XF 56/1.2 Nikkor AF 105/2 DC (will be replaced with XF 90/2 as soon as possible) TCL-X100 4 Cactus V6 transievers Nikon SB-700 Pentax FGZ 540 1m 2-in-1 umbrella 120cm umbrella octobox 40x40cm softbox 5-in-1 80cm reflector tripod and light stands gel fiters other little tricks

I hope so because the size of the camera prevents Fuji to make larger buttons and dials. Even though I'm not going to buy X-T10, I believe buttons pronunciation has nothing to do with weather sealing. Thus I hope X-Pro2 will feature both: WR and well pronounced buttons and dials. I'm totally OK with the lack of push-able back dial.

I seriously disagree with some points. I'm not telling my way is correct and you're wrong. I just want to show you that different people use same camera in totally different ways. It's very difficult to make a camera that will suit everybody in the best way. I shoot weddings for several years. The first wedding I've tried to shoot with Fuji exclusively was a year ago. That experience was quite negative but I've adapted to Fuji cameras since and now I'm totally comfortable with them. I was looking forward trying this feature in December as I shoot at f/1.2 at noon sometimes. And I also shoot in churches in complete silence. Unfortunately IMO electronic shutter drawbacks are seen very often. Flicker effect, strait lines are not parallel, people get fatter or thinner. I also had to switch to MS every time I needed flash. In the end I've stopped using ES after one single wedding at all. X-T1 shutter is quite silent (especially in comparison with SLR) and I had no problem with it anyway. I never trust face detection in any cameras because it has much more malfunction possibility than center single point AF. I shoot many onece in a lifetime moments so I can't take additional risks. Moreover I use instant AF in MF most of the time and FD doesn't work in this mode anyway. The only situation I could probably use it is single person portrait that I'm directing. I use spot meter for precise exposure measurements. That's not very often situation, but I love to have a dedicated dial. I use ISO dial a lot because I use full manual very often. If X-Pro2 will not feature dedicated ISO dial it will probably become my secondary camera. Talking about more advanced auto-iso features I don't need them. As soon as I get exposure compensation biasing auto-ISO in manual I won't even use minimum shutter speed dialog. It takes to long to change this option. It's much faster to switch the shutter speed manually. X-T1 drive dial is OK for me. I'm totally used to it and always switch to the position I need very fast. The only problem I have is that I sometimes kick this dial when using ISO dial with thick winter gloves. The X-T1 buttons and dials are not very easy to use. The reason is not because they are stiff or recessed but they are small. Thus I have hard times using the controls with thick winter gloves once again. This is probably one of the main disadvantages over Nikons. Nevertheless it looks like X-T10 buttons and dials are the same size so it won't help me too. I'd wish X-Pro2 would deal with this problem better. It looks like I'd use Auto switch too rarely. I do have a problem my wife is afraid of dozen of dials and switches on my X-T1 to set it to auto by herself. Nevertheless I'd be configuring a camera for her in these moments anyway in order to get best results. I'm also used to set whole camera to my default settings and P mode after I finish shooting anything so I could shoot fast when I have no time to get ready. In the end it's not necessary for me and I don't want it to waste space on a camera.

Personally I'd choose 18-135. The only reason to take 55-200 is that if you shoot at 200mm a lot. All shorter focal length could be just cropped from 135mm with marginal quality reduction. Otherwise you'll meet a situation where there is no time to switch from 18-55 to 55-200 or back. WR is also a big advantage in dusty countries. 55-200 is an air pump that pushes all the small dust onto the sensor. 18-135 is also much lighter than 18-55 + 55-200 Talking about cameras it's totally up to your preferences and your wallet. I would not say that body weather sealing is a game changer. I'd recommend to consider ergonomics and EVF size in contrast to very serious price addition. PDAF is also important for tracking if you need it.

Single prime 23/1.4 Two primes 23/1.4 & 56/1.2 Three primes 16/1.4 & 35/1.4 & 90/2 Four primes 16/1.4 & 23/1.4 & 56/1.2 & 90/2 My real setup 16/1.4 (coming soon) & x100s & TCL-X100 & 56/1.2 & 90/2 (coming soon)

The interesting point is which magnifications the X-Pro2's OVF will feature. For example I personally require 16mm and 50mm or 55mm. These will allow to shoot 16mm and 56mm almost at their native magnifications. 16-55 and 50-140 could be shot without magnification swich.

Don't say for everyone. I use telephoto lenses in portraits for real closeups and for narrowing perspective outdoors. And these are quite often situations.

IMO the first portrait lens should be 56 non-apd. 90 and 56 are more specific and less multi-purpose lenses.

I'll get X-Pro2 for action. EVF is great for single shot mode, but it performs poor in continuous shooting. It's impossible to reframe in continuous drive as frame rate slows down to several frames per second. Even SLRs are better here as one sees permanent view between the frames. So it's 25fps segments separated by blackout periods. I'll use X-T1 as a secondary camera as soon as X-Pro2 arrives.