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Adam Woodhouse

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  1. Like
    Adam Woodhouse got a reaction from man-overboard in Fuji Birds   
    This image isn't anything exciting but I share it because I captured it using a 1980's Tamron 200-500mm constant F5.6 beast with a lens adapter (Nikon mount).  Shot in my backyard, using a monopod (which wasn't good enough, I should have used a tripod).  This is the beast ->  http://www.adaptall-2.org/lenses/31A.html
     
    Had lens zoomed in almost 100%, so a 35mm equivalent of approx 700mm.
     
    This lens creates pretty poor images but is usable with the focus peeking and considerable processing afterwards.  What needs to be done afterwards on post is considerable contrast and blacks adjustments and major moire removal.  But once all that heavy lifting is done, images aren't half bad for a $75 purchase on Kijiji !!

  2. Like
    Adam Woodhouse reacted to Herr Barnack in Fuji users cannot apply for real estate photography jobs   
    I suspect that arbitrary requirements such as this are put in place by people who are not photographers and are ignorant about sensor size, ISO and image quality.  They demand cameras with 24x36mm sensors, and for what?  To print 1x1.5 inch photos in real estate promotional magazine or to put on a website?  That's just laughable.
    Uninformed people who "know" they are right about something they are ignorant of are next to impossible to educate. 
  3. Like
    Adam Woodhouse reacted to bem in Lens hood for XF 16-80mm F4 R OIS WR easily deattached while walking.   
    Update 2: So far (I'm writing this Nov. 2, 2020) my new Haoge LH-X18 square metal lens hood has not deattached while out in the terrain. I doubt it will ever deattach by itself from the lens.
    /Bo
  4. Like
    Adam Woodhouse reacted to Herco in Lens hood for XF 16-80mm F4 R OIS WR easily deattached while walking.   
    Should the new hood still be too loose, there's one other DIY solution. The issue is that the clamp mechanism is not stiff enough. You can solve that by inserting a splinter of soft wood (like from a [safety] match) and insert it in the small notch underneath the clamp mechanism. Like in the attached image. That stiffens the clamp mechanism and provides a more snug fit. 

  5. Like
    Adam Woodhouse reacted to jlmphotos in Best Lens for Interior/Exterior Architecture   
    I've had the opportunity to shoot several resorts in Puerto Rico and Costa Rica.  One was a new resort, and the second/third was for a realtor where the owner wished to sell the resort.  I shot them with my XT2, and XH1 and the Zeiss 12mm 2.8, and the Fuji 16mm 1.4
    In some instances I actually preferred to use the 16 1.4, in a vertical format, and I would stitch multiple images together.  That was just my preference.  I've never owned the 10-24 F4 as at the time it was not weather sealed and it would not have survived my shooting locations.  I shoot between the tropics, to the Arctic and I've heard too many horror stories of the 10-24 failing -- and here I'm talking about the 1st generation which is all that was available at the time of my shoots.  
    If I were shooting the same images today I would definitely get myself the 10-24mm F4 as Fuji improved the survivability of this lens.
    Hope that helps.
     
  6. Like
    Adam Woodhouse reacted to Herco in X Pro 1 Focusing...I need help. Desperately.   
    You may want to check out fujifilm_xpro1_manual_en.pdf (fujifilm-x.com) and esp. page 86 or CORRECTED AF FRAME (fujifilm-dsc.com) for the X-Pro2. The latter is the same, but better described.
    Though technically the X-Pro cameras are not rangefinders, the OVF has the same parallax issue as rangefinders have. That means that for shorter focus distances the frame (and therefor also the focus point) is different than for infinity, simply because you're not looking through the lens, but through the OVF which is slightly right and up from the lens. The deviation is larger for short focus distances and becomes insignificant for focus on infinity.
    When you switch on the Corrected AF Frame setting you get a dotted white focus box to the right and below the original focus box. The solid white focus frame is for infinity. The dotted white box is for 80cm focus distance (50cm in the X-Pro2). As soon as you half-press the shutter release (or press the AF-L button) while trying to focus on subjects closer than infinity two things happen:
    - the outer white frame line indicating the outlines of your image shifts to the parallax-corrected position: that will be the new outline of the final image;
    - a green focus box appears indicating the corrected focus area based on the parallax shift. It will be anywhere between the solid white and dotted white focus box depending how far your focus actually is.
    The camera focuses on the green focus box area. If that is not the area you intended, you need to slightly move the camera and re-focus. This requires some practice. Sometimes its best to switch to AF-C mode because the camera will re-focus wherever you point it. 
    However, whenever focus is critical and distance is short (e.g. macro or portrait), you're better of using the EVF-mode of the viewfinder. An alternative is manual focus with focus peaking assistance. When you focus, the OVF switches to EVF to show the focus peaking and then goes back to OVF for composition. 
  7. Like
    Adam Woodhouse got a reaction from Max78 in Fuji Birds   
    Snowy Owl captured in central Ontario, Canada in the middle of the winter.
     
     

  8. Like
    Adam Woodhouse reacted to Greybeard in Highlight warning in Still mode   
    You can add highlight alert in the Set Up menu under Screen Setting => Customize the standard display.
    It works for stills.
  9. Like
    Adam Woodhouse reacted to mdm in Highlight warning in Still mode   
    What's wrong with the histogram? It lets you preserve highlights without being distracted by flashing view. Might be just a matter of habit.
  10. Like
    Adam Woodhouse reacted to LoloXpro1 in XPRO1 sometimes slow and laggy   
    Yes , energy saving mode turned off and also quick start turned on. Hoping that our issue will be resolved 
  11. Like
    Adam Woodhouse reacted to JohnB1952 in XT4 Q button   
    PROBLEM SOLVED RE Q button
    I noticed a small yellow padlock displayed on LCD which is active when "controls have been locked"
    To use this lock feature press and hold the Menu/OK button to activate and/or deactivate.
    I switched it off and the Q button now works !!!!!!!
    How it was switched on is a mystery to me but at least Q is now working.
     
  12. Like
    Adam Woodhouse got a reaction from matsonfamily in Two manual lenses and X-T1   
    You have to change it for every lens you mount on the camera.  That is why I wish Fuji would allow that setting to be added to the Q Menu !!!!!
     
    The value you enter does nothing to correct the image due to any possible lens distortion.  It is only adding that focal length to the EXIF data.
     
    Have fun shooting with vintage adapted lenses. 
  13. Like
    Adam Woodhouse got a reaction from Drunken Monk in Fuji Birds   
    Snowy Owl captured in central Ontario, Canada in the middle of the winter.
     
     

  14. Like
    Adam Woodhouse got a reaction from Osdog in Fuji Birds   
    Snowy Owl captured in central Ontario, Canada in the middle of the winter.
     
     

  15. Like
  16. Like
    Adam Woodhouse got a reaction from tedorland in Making prints from Fuji X-Trans files   
    I have printed a nice sharp image that was approx 8 - 10 megapixel as a 2ft x 3ft stretched canvas.  I have a few of them from yester-year.  They all look excellent.  Canvas is a more forgiving medium to print on.  Remember, viewing distance (optimal) is at least 2x the vertical size of the print.  Its ok for an image to not be perfectly sharp or noise free ... it is the subject matter that people will notice and the large 'wow factor' from it being nice and big.  Only you will be the one to notice and give a care about the technical details.  People can print larger than they think from just listening to others on the web.  I have found from experience that I can print twice as large as what a print shop recommends and still be quite happy with the results. 
     
    What people don't realize is the image needs to be pre-sharpened before printing and the pre-sharpening needs to be stronger than they would think it should be.  It may look oversharpened on your screen, but it will print great.  Your screen and print material (paper, canvas, metal, etc) show the image different, so if it looks oversharpened on the screen, it will probably be just right for print.  But trial and error and experimenting is without a doubt the best approach.  Have fun!
  17. Like
    Adam Woodhouse got a reaction from Neil_42 in EF-X 500   
    Agreed.  I have the flash and it has performed well.  
     
    There isn't many people that have that flash (at least it seems that way on the forums) because they are all wanting a cheaper alternative.  But anyone that has it, I haven't yet seen anyone complain other than wishing it was not line-of-sight when using as master/slave setup.
  18. Like
    Adam Woodhouse got a reaction from claude in black and white (open thread)   
    The children's mini play castle (part of Boldt Castle property located at the 1000 Islands (in the St. Lawrence between USA and Canada)).

  19. Like
    Adam Woodhouse got a reaction from adrian22 in Two manual lenses and X-T1   
    You have to change it for every lens you mount on the camera.  That is why I wish Fuji would allow that setting to be added to the Q Menu !!!!!
     
    The value you enter does nothing to correct the image due to any possible lens distortion.  It is only adding that focal length to the EXIF data.
     
    Have fun shooting with vintage adapted lenses. 
  20. Like
    Adam Woodhouse reacted to JXPhotoGuy in Soligor 200mm f/2.8 MD/M to FX with K&F Adapter   
    This lens is heavy but gets the job done with good results on my X-T1
     
     

  21. Like
    Adam Woodhouse got a reaction from Kentman in black and white (open thread)   
    Montreal City.



  22. Like
    Adam Woodhouse got a reaction from mdm in Old Quebec City + XT2 and 1973 Canon 24/2.8 and Minolta 58/1.4   
    more


  23. Like
    Adam Woodhouse got a reaction from mdm in Old Quebec City + XT2 and 1973 Canon 24/2.8 and Minolta 58/1.4   
    A recent trip to Old Quebec City.
     
    When using adapted lenses, I usually shoot with either Velvia or Acros + R film simulation.
     
    Most of these shared are with my old Canon 24/2.8 or Minolta 58/1.4
     
    Details here ->  http://adamwoodhouse.info/old-quebec-city-fuji-xt2-with-canon-242-8-scc-and-minolta-rokkor-581-4/



  24. Like
    Adam Woodhouse got a reaction from plaidshirts in Vivitar Auto Wide-Angle 20mm f3.8 Konica AR Mount   
    Since it has an effective focal length of 30mm, it would be a great casual walk around (street for example) lens.
     
    I really enjoy my 1973 Canon 24mm F2.8 SCC since it gives that common 35mm field of view.
  25. Like
    Adam Woodhouse got a reaction from Kentman in Old Quebec City + XT2 and 1973 Canon 24/2.8 and Minolta 58/1.4   
    Vintage adapted lenses.
     
    More details here if interested -> http://adamwoodhouse.info/old-quebec-city-fuji-xt2-with-canon-242-8-scc-and-minolta-rokkor-581-4/



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