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matsonfamily's Achievements

  1. that would explain why i can take macros from 3m away with my 300mm lens and have to touch the lens with some of my shorter lenses. (olympus experience)
  2. oh... i see what you're saying, @mawz.... yeah, seems that would give you more choices. Thanks!
  3. that sounds great! Good news is precious in 2020.
  4. well, unlike your experience, I found a user on a competing forum claiming that they had it fixed by Fuji: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4437438?page=2 EDIT: (confirms your Streustrom comment) some comments: "Fuji took the camera in under warranty and the power board was found to be faulty. Quick painless turnaround and now have no power drain issues. Also seems to have improved battery performance in general." "I received my X-T3 back from the Fujifilm Service Center today. The main circuit board was replaced on 22 nov. Assuming they put in a fully charged battery on that date, it now still shows fully charged, while before the fix it would have been almost empty. Seems that the problem is solved. Camera has been away for 16 days, no charges as it was still under guarantee. For now I say: Good service....After repair, no battery drain anymore when camera is switched off."
  5. ah, zwerf Stroom (stray current/amperage?) sounds like ground faults, when wiring is able to find a path to the "ground". Often when insulation is worn down. That seems like something physically wrong with the camera... but at the same time I find others complaining of this, too.
  6. @Elly3, after reading your reply, i have looked up and found others that claim their battery drains in-camera more than it did for other Fuji models. Perhaps this is a problem with the X-T3. I'd like to see someone else's take on this. What was the native phrase they used for "wandering energy?" (assuming you speak dutch?)
  7. I normally replace my lithium ion batteries when they will not go over 20% of their original capacity. That seems to be the point when I may notice a bulge in the battery, as well. If you want to refresh your battery, you can charge it, let it cool (has chip in the battery), take photos with e-shutter, then charge again. Also, you may do some troubleshooting by taking the battery out for 2wks (good time to order a second battery), to determine if it still drains. Also, can check the contacts to see if they have corrosion. Fuji's manual insinuates that a significant battery life is drained even while sitting for 2 days: "The battery gradually loses its charge when not in use. Charge the battery one or two days before use." http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t3/first_step/battery_charge/index.html The manual also has a section that says this: "Performance may be impaired if the battery is left unused for extended periods when fully charged. Run the battery flat before storing it. If the camera will not be used for an extended period, remove the battery and store it in a dry place with an ambient..." I hope something in this helps and that I have written clearly.
  8. @jlmphotos, the xt1_manual in Specifications (pg126) states 4896x3264 (16MP) for single images, and 2160*9600 (21MP) for panorama. That means the camera can improve it's resolution 31%, and you have the problem of varying perspective (do you raise and lower your tripod? only works well for very close shots), as all panoramas have. This is hardly a substitute for in-camera pixel shift (although pixel shift has the problem of increased exposure resulting in motion). If you're referring to taking separate images and then using an editor to join them, that is quite a lot of extra work, especially for someone who isn't familiar with basic tools. Image editors are far from intuitive.
  9. Yellow tint? I wonder if coatings change over time?
  10. I disagree that it wouldn't be significant. I think the flange distance is the distance that the extension tube modifies, not the focal length.
  11. @mawz, why would the FD lenses not be versatile? I've seen them [and the older FL] adapted all the time. I do understand the impulse to go with a mount that makes focus and possibly aperture easier (EF), however... but that may be contrary to @thl70's original desire to experiment with vintage manual lenses. - Honestly Curious
  12. seems to be a copy of the K&F one, which doesn't have contacts (i.e.: isn't smart). That means you must use lenses with manual aperture. If I'm incorrect, can you post a photo of yours, so that we may determine which [more major brand] it is a copy of? https://www.amazon.com/Concept-Pentax-Fujifilm-Camera-Adapter/dp/B00L7EHMMM
  13. I know of a X-Trans worm effect that may be what you're referring to. Maybe 5 pixels long, with a L at the end, and hundreds of them. I usually see it at 50% zoom, and always at 100% zoom, more noticeable at high sensitivity. In my experience X-Trans produces more natural looking lines [than Bayer] at 25% zoom and less (and seems to do better at geometric designs, e.g.: tiny b&w lines), but Bayer seems to do better cropped in to 100% zoom (and at natural curves). Not sure if this is what you're referring to, but handling them is very raw software dependent. As for Topaz's software, I haven't used it. Maybe you could attach some small screenshots or samples of what you're experiencing, and then someone will be able to answer? attached an example off google (from dpreview's forums) about x-trans vs bayer. two nearly identical cameras, but the clearer one on the right is x-trans.
  14. is there also some way to have the camera show both SS & ISO, when both are set to auto, and while using a manual lens? it's nice to know how what type of motion would be blurred and why amount of noise will be present in the raw.
  15. @#$%! I found it out right after I posted, @mdm... DR-AUTO. I'm not used to shooting with JPEGs, but they're so professional with Fuji, that I've been experimenting with DR100, DR200, DR400, and DRauto on almost every shot. When I'm done, I leave it at what I think is the default (DR-AUTO) and that messes it up. For some reason, the camera cannot determine which sensitivity is best to push (or not push at DR100) and provide me with realtime shutter speed choices. I'm guessing the camera has to do the 2x push and 4x push many times a second when it's in DRauto, and it's just too much for the CPU. @#$% Sorry that took me so long... I guess when I was experimenting with DR400 etc.., that I was only looking at the areas of the screen that are commonly blown out, rather than looking at the numbers at the bottom... yet when I was experimenting with the dials (I'm new to Fuji... used to soft controls) I was only looking at the numbers. Tunnel vision.
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