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Hello, During my recent trip i used my new X-S20 to take photos. I wasn't really familiar with the camera and it was my first camera and the first ~200-300 photos were taken by mistake with 6400 iso, even during the day. I saw ISO 6400 in camera, but i thought that was the max ISO, not constant. I did save RAW files with the intention to use XRAW studio from Fujifilm to play with different settings. My question is, is it possible to use a third party program to apply noise reduction to RAW files and then save them again as RAW files and continue with using them with XRAW studio? I know i can apply noise reduction with XRAW studio settings but from what i read, other programs are better. Or maybe you know some other way to save those photos?, i really liked how they turned out and i am a little dissapointed with that mistake.. -
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I think reassigning the exposure compensation dial a good start. The 520 page online manual should be condensed along with the number of setting options. Maybe they could have multiple firmware options for the X-E5; a pro-version, a photo enthusiasts version and a point and shoot version. I love my X-E5 photographs but as a typical senior, with declining cognitive skills, I’m sorry say that I find the current singular version unnecessarily challenging. -
I was told the GFX 100 II couldn't do this so I decided to test it:Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…
Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!
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You appear certain you intend to use this lens for astrophotography. Hmmm. Are you willing to consider the suggestion you will be better off trying the XF-500mm prime lens instead? Simply put, prime lenses are way better than zoom lenses for astrophotography while the XF 150-600mm is great for terra photography. 1.) The lens hood’s connection placement on zoom lenses is right on the very edge of the lens body. This is a loose connection that allows any tiny stray light to enter the lens and then bounce around the many lens element groups, ending up on the sensor, causing all kinds of gradient troubles. For terra photography, cough, cough -daytime photography- cough, cough, this is not a problem because that little stray light is lost among the bright daytime backgrounds. Prime lens hood’s loose connection placement tends to be further up on the lens body, so stray light is usually not able to bounce into the lens so easily. 2.) Weather changes affects the lenses. All lenses can have focus creep even when pointed horizontally, cold and hot causes the mechanical parts to expand or contract differently, but especially when pointed up in the sky because gravity also pulls on the parts. Zoom lenses additionally have something called ‘zoom creep’ which you can figure into the issues you will face during your sessions. Essentially, you need to refocus when it gets cooler during the night. If you are determined to try this lens anyway, best wishes!!! It is possible to make a homemade lens hood. There are plenty of companies that sell dew heater straps fitting this lens to keep it from frosting over during your sessions. Also, you can find Bahtinov Masks or Carey Masks that will fit the lens. These make focusing on the stars much, much easier and are not difficult to learn how to. Or, if your camera body is one of the top line bodies that Fujifilm has released the SDK for, various astrophotography apps will take the live view and help you focus. Say X-T3 but not X-T30, etc. p.s. Welcome to the forum.
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