Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Just curious why you chose 35/2 instead of 35/1.4?

I'm going to buy X-T2 + 35 f/2 + 56f/1.2 later 12mm Samyang.. 35 f/2 better for overall experience, focus speed, wr, bit different rendering and it doesn't have big leap from 1.4, neither 50mm f/2 (-6mm fov, 1.2 vs 2)...

Edited by jakku
Link to post
Share on other sites

Finally decided I'd lurked enough on this excellent thread that I had to post... 

 

When I carry multiple lenses, I usually go for 18.5/2.8 (X70), 35/2, and a zoom (either 18-135 or the 50-230 for the built or natural environment, respectively). 

 

My other prime is the Samyang 12/2, and 12/18ish/35 is pretty close to my ideal prime setup for city photography (though I might swap out one of the wides for the 16). For a more outdoorsy prime setup, I'd replace one of the two wides with a(n as yet nonexistent) tele, probably in the 200-300 range.

 

Had an X100T for a little while, but I much preferred the pictures I took with the 35. My glasses didn't get along that well with the X100's viewfinder either, so it moved in the world.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi - Just joined the X club with an X Pro1 and an XT-10 a month ago, plus  the 14/2.8, 35/1.4, and now the 60/2.4 primes.

 

I don't think I will go beyond this set as I bought them to give me a small, handy and "want to use" fun system, as I find my Canon 5D2 and big L glass collection a drag at times.

 

I'm off to photograph my daughter rowing in competition tomorrow, and I am taking the Canon with a 150-500mm zoom for the rowing itself, plus the XPro and its3 primes for everything else.

Wonderful, magical glass.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

18mm F2

35mm F1.4

50mm F2

 

I tried the 23mm F2 and sold it quickly : it has NONE of the rendering of the 35 F1.4. or even the despised 18mm F2. It's flat. Boring. Dead.

 

Fortunately, the 50mm is none of that. It's marvelous, and for 200 grams I have a short tele I can take when hiking for landscape closeups, big animals, hiking friends portraits etc. Bokeh is very good on that one. Rendering is "3D" unlike the 23 F2.

 

18mm because other wide options are too big/heavy for me to take everywhere and it has, despite extreme corners softness/distortion/fringing, a fantastic rendering. Just don't fight against it and put an important (human...) subject in an extreme corner when you frame and you'll be absolutely fine, no one will be able to tell not even you. It's really a fantastic lens that I had to buy again after selling it stupidly.

 

The 35mm f1.4 is still the best fuji lens and nope, the 35mm F2 does not match it. It might be "90%" of it as some reviews claim, but those 10% account for an incredible, very pleasing, film-like picture vs a "good digital one" IMO. I'm still thinking I will add it to my kit because it's better if I'm hiking in snow and make F8 landscape pictures vs not taking the 1.4 at all ;)

 

Eagerly waiting for a 16 or 18mm WR F2 lens so I can have 18-35-50 WR with the 35 F2 being so-so but able to take all abuse I throw at it, and keep the 35 1.4 warm and dry for important stuff.

Edited by citral
Link to post
Share on other sites

Firts of all Hi, this is my firts post.

I have 23mm f1.4 and 90mm f2.

I spent 3 weeks in Spain and use my Fuji x-t2 with the 23mm f1.4 95% of the time for night shooting and some day shooting (canon 5d IV 24-70 during the day). Very happy!

Returned the 35mm because it did not get out of the bag. My guess is that I will end up 16, 23  and 90

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • I also use a Nikon to GFX Fringer and it works very well.  24mm f/1.8 vignettes so best used on 35mm mode.  50mm f/1.8 covers the entire frame very well with no issues and is a superb little lens. 105mm Sigma vignettes slightly but is perfectly usable. 300 f/4 likewise the 105.  I have a 70-200 f/20+.8 incoming to test so will report back but I'm expecting a little vignetting.  Even in 35mm mode the image is still 60MP and if you're prepared to manually crop and correct you can get 80-90 MP images.  I also have a C/Y to GFX adapter.  The 24mm Sigma Superwide vignettes strongly. Ditto 28-80 Zeiss Sonnar. 80-200 f/4 Sonnar is perfectly usable. All work fine as 35mm mode lenses.  I also have an M42 adapter which I tried with the Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 with good results. 
    • Thank you. I will research it.
    • Ahh, the infamous brick wall photos… 😀 According to internet lore, if the dng converter does not properly apply the corrections, you can have it apply custom profiles that should work for you. How to do that is waaaaaay outside of this comment’s scope, but there are plenty of sites listed in the search engines that step you through the processes. Best wishes.
    • Jerry Thank you very much. That is extremely helpful. It seems that the camera and the lens have the latest firmware update, so it appears that the corrections should be applied automatically. The lens arrived this afternoon and I took some quick test shots, in which the correct lens information appeared in the EXIF files, so that sounds good. I used Adobe DNG converter to convert the Raw (RAF) files, and then opened the DNG files and saved them in PSD format. However, with a beautiful, clear, cloudless blue sky, there were no lines near the edges to check if distortion had been corrected. Another day I plan to photograph a brick wall. Thank you for your help.
    • Typically you need to make sure the lens is compatible with the camera, i.e. check the lens compatibility charts for your camera, then make sure the respective firmwares are updated so older issues are resolved. After that, each lens has a manufacturer’s profile which will be embedded into the raw file meta data for the images captured using that lens. From there, it is up to the raw conversion software to apply the lens correction to the image. Different converters do that differently, some automatically, some only if a setting is turned on. For in-camera jpegs, the on-board converter does the corrections automatically, assuming the camera recognizes the lens, it applies a generic profile otherwise. I do not know if that can be turned off or not.
×
×
  • Create New...