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thelostkiwi

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thelostkiwi last won the day on July 16 2024

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  1. Some of the post processing options cause this. Clarity, noise reduction etc. check all are off. Also check to see if you've bumped it into HDR mode on the drive selector.
  2. If you use an Android phone Snapseed is fantastic. Affinity 2 is a full featured editor that's not overly expensive when there are offers on. Luminar Neo is very good and easy to use but you need to wait till there's an offer on. It can then be extremely good value.
  3. Agree on the 18-135 it's a very good one lens fits all with a decent blend of focal length coverage, sharpness, cost and weight with the added benefit it's weather sealed. It's a bit slow at the long end but with OIS and high ISO it's fine for most things. You don't say what you shoot? For myself I use vintage telephoto lenses from Minolta and Zeiss. Great lenses for not much money. Example: 75-200 f4.5 Minolta can be had for under £50 and is the same design as the equivalent Leica R (Leica and Minolta co-developed lenses and bodies for a while). A Zeiss 80-200 can be had for £100 -150 in Contax fitting. Adapters are £20-30. The only issue is you need to manually focus so not easy to use for sports or wildlife.
  4. Plenty on eBay and Amazon. The one I use is a KEF Concepts which works fine. Remember you will have no AF, no feedback of aperture and will need to stop the lens down manually. That all said vintage lenses are a bargain and you can get a very good lens for not much money. For example I paid £15 for a Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm f/3.5 lens in m42 fitment and it is pin sharp even wide open. Likewise Minolta MD 75-200 f/4.5 (£25), Minolta MD III 35-70 f/3.5 Macro (£20) and Rollei (Zeiss) 50mm f/1.8 HFT (essentially a Rollei QBM version of the C/Y 50mm 1.7). Minolta in the 1970s worked with Leica and both the MD lenses above are identical optically to their Leica SLR counterparts at a fraction of the price. Likewise Zeiss worked with both Rollei and Contax (though Rolleinar and Yashica lenses are not the same as the Zeiss ones).
  5. Check the lenses you have are supported by the adapter. Some aren't, especially third party ones. For example the Tamron SP90 for Nikon is not supported by the Fringer Nikon to Fuji FX adapter.
  6. Depending what is going on internally this can be normal with some designs. For example the Yashica MC 35-70 moves freely from 70 to 45 but then internally one set of elements starts to move along with the first set and it stiffens up. It's even worse coming the other way. Tried several and they're all the same. Have a look and see what the internal elements are doing and that could give you a clue.
  7. The three steps I went through on the X-T4 were: 1. Go into Menu, Drive Setting, BKT Setting, Film Simulation BKT and select the three simulations. 2. Go back into Menu, Drive Setting, BKT Setting, BKT Select, Film Simulation BKT. 3. Switch the camera to BKT mode Then it took a single image and generated the three images. If you're doing that and it's not working I'm not sure what could be wrong. Does it work on other bracketing modes?
  8. Just tried it on my X-T4 and that's how it works on that. Silly question but you did remember to set the camera to bracket mode?
  9. Bizarre to make your camera purchase decision on an app that'll probably be rarely used. I've used the remote app maybe 3 times in 2 years. Would I base my purchasing decisions on that experience? No.
  10. Is the LCD enabled in the Screen setup portion of the Setup menus?
  11. Sounds like something isn't right. Check the lens is fully mounted home and the electrical connectors are clean. If you have access to another Fuji lens try that in order to determine if it's the lens or body.
  12. Just checked both my X-E2 and X-T4 and both have free movement, then a light click to prefocus, then a second click to expose. Sounds to me like that movement is normal.
  13. Spring time in the Charente Maritime. X-T4 with 18-135.
  14. English Lavender Fuji X-T4 with Samyang 12mm AF
  15. It sounds like the mechanical shutter is faulty and the second curtain is closing too quickly after the first operates. That would explain why the electronic shutter is ok but not the mechanical one.
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